To be honest mate i have no idea..

I went with this because i bought the complete CRV drivetrain..

I never really looked into changing it on the account my wife would kill me for wasting more money lol

 

I have had a small idea..

I am building a wind splitter onto the bottom of my new (not bought yet) CF spoon lip.. But based on aero theory, it really needs to be as close to the ground as possible, to limit the amount of air flowing under the floor. This will later be expanded by a custom rear diffuser..

I want to get the splitter done before the respray really so i dont damage anything whilst i do it.. But ive had a "clever" idea..

You need it as close as possible to the deck, but on the road and at low speeds when the car is manouvring it could foul the ground. An ingenious idea would be to electronically drop the splitter closer to the road when it isnt likely to foul and lift it at lower speed. An example of this is the Mitsubishi GTO, that had a "variable venturi" which dropped in the same way.

I have managed to obtain th electonic diagram of how it works, and managed to get the motor / mechanism cheaply. I am planning on modifying my rear wing computer to drive it too and mount a wind splitter and secondary (normally hidden behind spoon lip) airdam which the GTO mechanism will drop down at speeds above 70mph..

Its a little over the top, but since i need to make the mechanism to hold the splitter anyway, and since i got the mechanism for Ł15 delivered, i couldnt say no lol

 

but is more weight! i think isnt necessary!

maybe you need to work in ground effect!

 

to be honest youre not wrong there..

Ill be making the mounts out of aluminium, so it would resemble a P1 type splitter. However, the addition of the motor unit is only a small increase in weight over that..

Ground effect is an area i am rather interested in, plus using this method will make the car more usable day to day. Since Ill be driving the car as often as possible (to work and such) i need it to be as street-able as possible...

you are correct about the weight increase, but i do put more stock in aerodynamics than most..

 

what can i say that hasnt been said a million times
THIS BUILD IS F'IN BADASS!

 

lol thanks very much mate..

 

I took some time tonight to offer up the Mitzi active aero mechanism.. The electrics are very easy to work with, im glad i chose this method..

As you can see, its actually a perfect fit where i want it.. Im going to be adding some more brackery to my traction bar to support it..










Im really busy on other things at the moment, and the milling machine spindle motor just burned out.. Im rather furious now but im hoping that the seller will sort it...

 

Managed to do my rear wheel arches today..

I wanted to make them modular so there is no issue with chassis flex cracking filler .etc

I started by laying fibreglass on the rear of the arch, overhanging the top.



Then i layed fibreglass onto the wing, protected by resin proof tape.



I then attached the arch (once the resin had started setting) to the body. The screws held the arch in contact with the resin on the body.

Once set, the arch was bonded to the fibreglass covering the wing.

This was removed and the excess trimmed off. After alot of sanding, this is the nearly-finished product



It still needs some trimming, sanding and some body filler in places, but they look very nice.. I had time to finish both the rears and get midway through the front passenger wing..

 

What size tires will you be using?

And the "active aero" stuff sounds brilliant! Can't wait to see how it all works. I'm an aircraft mechanic, so all of the aerodynamic mods are a big turn on to this build...

 

Im not entirely sure to be honest.. Im going to be using XXR 527 wheels (17 x 9.75"). Strictly as i cant afford much else at the moment..

Id love a set of compomotive wheels..

Yeah, im an aerospace engineer too.. Did my apprenticeship in windscreen production, final assembly and electrical systems test.. I now work in the avionics test department so i have quite an avid interest in putting things like my aerospace degree into practice..

i have some ideas how to do my aero, i dont want to say much about it though until ive drafted up some proper thoughts..

 

Come up with a few ideas tonight of how to integrate a rear diffuser.. Im going for a peak angle of approx 7 - 9 degrees.. Also, alot of people seem to make straight diffusers, however my idea is to spread the exit of the diffuser to have the same effect horizontally.. Id like to do some calculations and CFD on it if i can get the software to work..







The diff will be hanging in the way slightly but there isnt mcuh i can do about that.. Also, the sump of the fuel tank WILL poke through, that and the original tow hook, but im going to make a feature out of that anyway, something like a benen tow hook..

The diffuser, to get the angle right, might stick out from the back of the car slightly.. If the angle is over 9 degrees (from reading others') the flow tends to separate and the effect is lost. So, if the tank positioning means that a diffuser has to be steep, ill simply have to overhang the rear bumper to maintain a maximum angle..

 

Hey Chris, I don't know if you've already posted this, but do you happen to have the tooth count on both the ring and pinion for your rear differential?

 

To be honest i cant remember, i dont really need to know as im using all CRV stuff however, Rallysol's build has that information in it.. His build is a great source of info for 4wd swaps!

 

yeah, I'm following his build too. I was just wondering, because I've got a Civic Wagon rear diff and was going to see about getting a custom ring and pinion made to keep from having to run different size tires. Thanks anyway.

 

thats an interesting idea... Unfortunately i cant help.

Id be really interested to see if you could pull that off actually.. The calculations will need to be spot on to prevent the VC overheating though..

 

Hi Chris, I did similar when looking at diffusers. Obviously the more "spread" you get the less angle you require. What CAD software are you using?

 

It makes sense when you think about it (i dont know how effective it will be but its worth a shot).

I use Solidedge V20 for my design activity and import it into Solidwoks 2008 for mechanical simulation / CFD..

I have literally never used the CFD package in solidworks, ive used the stress package to good results but im new to CFD so ill have to see how i go on when i can input real dimensions...

 

That's nothing for an engineer right. Which is why I want to know the tooth count on the CRV rear diff. The only info I've seen from Rallysol's thread on the CRV diff is that it's 2.533:1, but I didn't see an actual tooth count.

 

Small update today, modified my full-race traction bar with the active aero unit..









Ive attached it to the traction bar as its stable and can be removed easily.. Its all aligned and works perfectly.. Had to remove a small amount of bumper to allow for the crank mechanisms. It looks low and as if stuck out from the front of the car. The mechanism sticks no lower than the traction bar and no further forward than the bumper. It will all be hidden by a small fibreglass lip, and in normal use by a SPOON lip.

 

Lookin snazzy!

 

I havnt really done much this week, spent some time smoothing in the new arches- im not great so the bodyshop will have to do the rest..

Ive added some structure to the boot lid, as the wing is going to be exerting alot of force on the boot, this structure will carry the load down to the lower boot member and into the chassis..

Im still yet to add additional plating to the wing mechanism itself..





Just for a laugh, this is my milling machine engraving out the PCB for my engine position / antilag / coil on plug module..



3 hours from start to finish to do it..

 

oh, the supports for the boot they arent quite finished, hence the abrupt end to them at the bottom.. I need to cut it flat and weld a plate on the end, cutting disc ran out on the grinder so i called it quits...

 

Guess what happened lol

Woke up on Saturday morning to find this...





(must have been one hell of a bird **** lol)

It happened as the sun hit it first thing, must have been a weak spot.. Glad it happened now than on the road .etc

Im looking into getting a complete set of Lexan windows, ive already had some prices which im pretty happy with.. Cheaper than new glass anyway!

On another note, having had to remove the broken glass as the wind made it fall through, i decided to finish the rear wing supports and radiator upper brackets..











Ive also removed the outer wheel arches on the back and plated them up.. The passenger side is very messy and im not happy at all with it, the drivers side is much better.. Ive seam sealed it and painted it up now so its all good.. The only solace i can take is that the work is hidden anyway.. Im still not chuffed though..

I can pretty much afford the respray now, and as soon as ive done the front arches and taken a fibreglass mould of the front lip, its ready.. Im excited lol

 

I bet that happened with the window after you´ve been welding in the trunk.

I did my rear window in a ef with lexan and it scratches easy. There is a kind that is surfice hardened and that is used for windows in machines used in the forrest.. More expensive but worth it. I should be as flexible as lexan or macrolon or any other polycarbonate..

I envy your drive, passion and electronicskills but once you have the power up there with a turbo you will have enough maintanance as is with only that..

 

I guess that's why most of his junk is automated, so he doesn't need to fool with it, just focus on driving.