purplecivicturbo

Thanks very much sir, I have been enjoying reading your build actually!!

sanchoem1

Very cool build! I think you should change your sig to 580 AWHP!

With the rear mounted radiator- I think its a cool idea. I met Stephan Verdier who drifts an Sti, and he has a rear mounted radiator. He has massive ducts going from the rear windows to the trunk area where the radiators mounted, and I was wondering why not apply that to yours. I'll see if I can't find a picture of it on my computer if not I'm sure its online.

purplecivicturbo

Thanks very much- i think i will change the signature! lol

It is an idea i toyed with, but unfortunately for myself i want to put the interior back in (i know sounds stupid..) so ive had to drop the rear window idea.. Im hoping that these large naca ducts will provide enough air...

No worries about the photos, i just looked it up on google, looks awesome, there are a few cars with HUGE ducts in the rear, im basing mine on the size of those on the european rallycross cars, fingers crossed...

EJ8 Jay-B

LOVIN the build man! Dont see too many good AWD builds that often, so i love when i come across one.

purplecivicturbo

Thanks mate!

sanchoem1

I think its cool that you will have a full interior car! Will you be able to drive it on the streets? If so it's going to be a freaking beast. Also do you have any pics of the ducts? I just am not able to picture them at the moment...

EF9_TryMe

awd civic, I love it.

purplecivicturbo

Thanks again chaps..

The naca ducts, these are the ones;

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Perfor...utlet/864/3559

will be cut out of the body work on either side under the rear windows, that will be attached to the rear of the panel, and duct air though 2x 3" hoses to the rad..

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur...w=1280&bih=709

In the picture above, the naca duct is the large black duct, naca is just the shape, mine is fairly small compared with that

purplecivicturbo

Finally got around to installing the head tonight...

My dog (Garrett) decided to help!

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

Damn pretty dog there sir! Full blooded Husky? I have a Husky/Wolf Hybrid. She is the same color but not NEAR his size...

purplecivicturbo

Thanks very much, He's a purebreed Alaskan Malamute, 18 months old.. I love the huskys too- and variations thereof.. How old is she? Bit of a hand full?

purplecivicturbo

Managed to finish the RPM processor part of the ALS circuit tonight.. It works really well now, i think there was a little miscalculation involved..



Next job is to assemble it all into the box. then its waiting to be installed, ill be using colour coded wiring which i havnt got yet.. Next is the cooling control unit

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

She turned 2 earlier this month. At first she was but she has improved alot. She has severe separation anxiety so if she is left alone with nobody @ home, she terrorizes it. Sad to say she stays in a crate during the day.

Any more updates on the build?

purplecivicturbo

Aww thats a shame. But still, if shes more relaxed in the crate, its less harsh than leaving her to destroy the house...

Were lucky about that, he damages the house from time to time, but if he wanted to do some damage- he really could..


Apart from sorting out a few bugs with the ALS, and assembling the B16 head to the B20 block, nothing much has happened.

I need to put all the ALS back together and mount it in its case, but im waiting for engine paints to turn up so i can move on with the engine. I suppose the next job is to clean up the old oil pump, remove the innards (as im using a dry sump) and install it, but im waiting for some hondabond to arrive so im not in a rush. Plus is really cold here so im avoiding the garage at the moment lol

purplecivicturbo

Small update again..

Finished work for Christmas now, so ive been painting my engine parts.

I have been using a self etching primer, which i recommend. It etches itself into the material surface so in effect keying the surface itself. Ill be painting POR 15 "aluminium" colour enamel onto it when its properly set.



Dizzy stripped and primed. Removed the coil unit and igniter as i dont need them anymore. Unfortunately the screw on the rotor is knackard so im struggling removing it..





Just to show the difference.





Had to leave the electric and gas heaters both on for a good 5 hours to cure it.. The temp is supposed to be approx 21deg C whereas its like 3deg C in the garage!

phunhaus

Why POR aluminum?

purplecivicturbo

Hey

I read on another forum that POR15 was a really good engine enamel. I went for the aluminium colour because i didnt want anything fancy, i just wanted a clean finish that will continue to look good and that i can attempt to keep clean..

Tapa_Roja

Wow man i know that car will make history in the Honda world. Nice job keep it up.

purplecivicturbo

Wow thanks man! Never realised what i was doing could be considered "to make history" as you say... Thanks

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

How do you plan on applying the POR 15? Brush or spray? Also, what did you use to prep your block? Marline-clean?

purplecivicturbo

Im putting the enamel on with a brush, apparently it smoothes itself out.. Unfortunately im no expert when it comes to paint..

I cleaned the block off with a no-brand surface prep stuff.. Then its been painted with a thin coating of self etching primer. Im going to give it some time to cure, until a set of brushes arrive in the mail, then ill put the enamel on top of that.. As i said, im far from an expert on this, most of the info i have is taken from other forums...

AccordVT

Great Project Man, I like the fact that it is an AWD EJ2.
I give you alot of credit for thinking through what you did and actually following through.
You aren't one of the people who dreams up or talks with friends about some project just to hop on here and ask if it can be done or how hard it is.
There are alot of layout conversions, swaps and awd conversions out there, as you know. Most of the threads or pictures I find of these things
reveal a serious lack of thought and preperation. This reassures that the key to a project of this nature is thinking through everything.
The things you do want in your final product and equally so, the things you don't want.
Understanding and considering all then fabricating accordingly.(The direction and strenghth of the forces applied, system function, Form, Safety, Longevity)
I myself have drawings, math, materials lists and such worked out for some
pretty fun projects and one-offs.
Your work and ideas here really inspire and provide others with a nice resource.
Your really a hero to people for taking this plunge and sharing your experiences, In turn taking people through the ins and outs without them having to take those steps. I love Honda-Tech for this reason. With that said I had some thoughts/questions for the benifit of myself and anyone else.


- What was the main reasoning behind moving the tack welded, factory, rear sub-frame for the rear LCA'S?
- How exactly did you remove and remount it?
- Was this a driveshaft length issue?
- What driveshaft did you use? The CRV?
- Why not use the Sub frame from a CRV or AWD Civic?

- How did you align the engine in the bay? Determining measurments/angles for rear and side mounts ect.
- Driveshaft alignment?
- Carrier bearing mounting strength/alignment?
- Any input on the exact mounting of the rear diff, as far as its location on the different planes?

- So you cut out the rear shock towers, moved them backwards ~25mm (along with the oem subframe) and welded them back in.
Then cut them again and welded them to change the angle of the shock?
- How did you determine this new location?
- Are you at all concerned with changes in caster, camber or un-equal arcs made by the hub through it's travel?
- Are you confident in the integrity of this design change and the strength of the welds?

- The rear trailing arms are a welded together EJ2 arms and AWD Civic (Wagovan) Arms?
- Are they butt welded together? Is there bracing?
- You said you were planning to use front Civic axles to go from the CRV rear differential to the modified civic/CRV trailing arms in the rear?
- Any more info on the axles? (Angles, length, spline count?)
- What is your welding setup throughout the project?
- Are you confident in the factory, non-driven, trailing arm suspension design to handle the forces? Bushings, arms, bends in upper link ect.

- What sort of things have you considered on your rear mounted radiator?
- Diameter of piping? I saw somewhere about some 1.25" tubing?
- Vibration and movment? Silicone connectors?
- Increased coolant capacity, auxilary pumps?

I look foreward to hearing, seeing and thinking more on this. Good work sir, your clearly quite capable.

Jaker

I hope the OP doesn't mind me jumping in here. I have a RWD Civic Wagon that I've been driving for the last 8 months or so. The inner joint on the CRV differential is the same size as the inner joint on a FWD Civic for the long side. Civics have a short and a long spline on the inner joints.

I don't know how much measuring you've done for axle lengths, but I had some custom lengths axles made by Drive Shaft Shop for my build. One side was approx. 24" long and the other was approx. 22" long. The outer joints are the same as FWD Civic/Integra outer joints (spline, length, etc...). However, the length will be a little on the short side to allow the full std. FWD axle end nut to fully seat and allow staking into the slot. I machined my axle nuts shorter so that the soft smooth staking portion could engage the slot.

So far, the rear trailing arms appear to be doing a pretty decent job of handling all the power going to the rear wheels. I have a 1 piece front/rear driveshaft (86 1/4" long), and no front driveshafts (tranny is sealed where the shafts would normally come out) so it's 100% RWD. I'm still in the sorting phase for the handling, so still have a ways to go to knwo the full potential.

I really like where your build is headed. Keep up the great work.

ohsnapzafingcu

iTrader: (2)

wow, i'm in awe. great build

purplecivicturbo

Firstly AccordVT- thanks very much for the compliment... Ill try and answer your questions the best that i can;

Firstly, the rear LCAs, on the stock civic, they sit approx just under the rear axle line, with the shocks running vertically. On the AWD arms, the shock cannot foul the driveshaft, so the rear LCA is further rearward. As such, i moved the subframe back to meet it. With the rear shock towers, to meet the new lower position, i cut a slice out of the upper mount located the lower shock mount with the shock bolted in and then tacked the upper mount. This gave the appropriate angle for the shock to sit at to meet the lower position. Therefore i havnt had to modify the upper mounts actual position.

I didnt want to use the CRV rear frame simply for cost, i had invested in the ASR rear brace, plus id have to buy the lower subframe.

The engine in the bay, simply had to locate the gearbox mount. THe drivedshafts .etc are identical to the civic, so to locate the mount, i had to make a jig to locate the engine position with the bay, so when i changed the gearbox, i attached the jig, got the engine into its position and then fabricated the gearbox mount..

The driveshaft (no worries Jaker, you pretty much answered it).

The rear arms are actually from the really rare AWD 92-95 civic, i modified them to receive the larger CRV bearing for extra strength. So the outer part of the shaft is an OEM civic and the inner part is a CRV to match the gearbox. I will be having them custom fabricated but to get the length just right, im halfing each of my crv and civic shafts, and welding them together using a length of tube..

The mounting of the rear diff is not exact, its the best i could do. THe driveshafts will not be at their perfect angle but i didnt want to butcher the floorpan as im fitting rear seats back in it.

Caster will not be affected in the rear at all, as its not controlled using the shock position, its a combination of the toe.etc It will need fine tuning just as Jaker is doing, but it will all be adjustable parts so i can do that..

Im very confident in the design changes, and the welds should be fine.


The rear arms are simply the AWD 92-95 arms so the geometry is fine, they are simply shortened, i have reenforced the rear with a 3mm steel plate for strength..

Im using a Clarke 151TE MIG welder with CO2, 0.8mm wire .etc

The only thing that worries me, and i think this is where i differ from Jaker (as ive seen his arms), im using a poly bush, not a spherical bearing. So the arms may "push" under torque. Simply for cost im sticking with it- but if it proves a problem, ill invest in the spherical option.


The rear radiator, ive had to consider alot, im an aerospace engineer by trade so this comes naturally.. The radiator in the original position is restricted by the intercooler, the 2 NACA profile ducts ill be using should flow sufficient air at speed to assist cooling, aided by the opened number plate housing- being a negative pressure area (hence why it gets dirty so quick), it will pull air though. To aid it further and at low speeds, im runnin 2x SPAL 12" fans, controlled by a computer ive designed, which takes vehicle speed, water temperature .etc into account..

ALthough the coolant capacity has increased, it doesnt have to flow more volume "per second", it will continue to pump at the same rate, as the radiator is not higher up than the old one i am confident that the OEM pump will do, if it doesnt, i will add an in-line pump. Ive already programmed the computer just in case its needed.. For vibration, the radiator sits i 4 rubber grommets, just like OEM, and the joins between it, the engine, and the 1.25" tubing will be done with flexible silicone hose..


Jaker: thanks for your input- i was very interested in your car! I had to do the same thing with my rear axle nuts, i grinded them down to stake them. Also, with my setup, i wanted to use the larger CRV bearings, to which i mounted a CIVIC 32mm 4x100mm PCD front hub into the rear- to keep my 260mm brakes and wheels, the problem is the hub is not as long as the bearing, so tightening the axle binds the whole hub. What i did was find an old hub knocking around, and cut a slice out of it. I used that as a shim to stop it hapening. And thanks for your compliment

ohsnapzafingcu: thanks for your compliment


If anyone else has any questions, or i havnt answered these properly, let me know.. Ive tried to answer all, but its boxing day and im getting harsh looks from the missus...