What is it?

 

step 1 - remove engine
step 2 - disassemble engine
step 3 - take block to machine shop and have them properly measure/bore/hone

 

My block only has 20,000 miles on it, and the cylinder walls look good as new... I'll measure when I find my bore gauge to double check. All I need is a quick deglaze, looking to get some input from others.

 

ive used the 3 stone honing tool several times with really good results. I would have probably prefered taking it to a machine shop to do it but when i first started i was too poor, so i ended up just experimenting, and doing it myself. Its worked well enough for me so i just continue doing it myself. I also follow up with several miles of hard driving after initial warm up and during all times ive been able to acheive 'normal' compression results with just after 50-60 miles.

 

bmup

 

Obviously I realize that this isn't going to help, but I totally agree with non-VTEC, and it's actually the only way Scott and I will do things. I don't care if the motor was assembled once, ran for 2 minutes, then rebuilt with new pistons... It's done for a reason, and this way also ensures that your parts are clean. About the only thing doing it yourself does, unless you have a full on machine shop, is save a little time and money. $50-100 and a little time is way more worth it to me in the end. Just my $0.02 though!

 

Isn't the cross-hatch pattern spec'd at a certain degree by Honda? Does the honing machine spin at a certain speed coupled with a certain up/down rate to produce the correct cross-hatch pattern?

Another vote for the machine shop.

 

Yea, unless the machine shop is using a drill press, the pluge rate and speed can all be set/varied on a bore/hone machine. Factory is 60 degrees, and though I don't know how essential 60 is exactly (I doubt that it's 100% necessary), my opinion won't change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't the cross-hatch pattern spec'd at a certain degree by Honda? Does the honing machine spin at a certain speed coupled with a certain up/down rate to produce the correct cross-hatch pattern?

Another vote for the machine shop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not rocket science. I usually go about 3/4 speed on my drill with an up and down motion about the speed of stroking your meat. It produces 60* cross hatches everytime.

Of course, if your building a 500-600WHP and already spending mad loot on the build anyway, taking it to the machine shop for a hone isn't gonna hurt. But for the DIY auto hobbiest like myself it won't make the slightest difference. The way i see it, compression results don't lie.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc_turd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its not rocket science. I usually go about 3/4 speed on my drill with an up and down motion about the speed of stroking your meat. It produces 60* cross hatches everytime.

Of course, if your building a 500-600WHP and already spending mad loot on the build anyway, taking it to the machine shop for a hone isn't gonna hurt. But for the DIY auto hobbiest like myself it won't make the slightest difference. The way i see it, compression results don't lie.</TD></TR></TABLE>



All I need is a deglaze

3 stone hone, or dingleberry brush?

If I had high miles on my block I would have a machine shop do it, but I only have 20k on the cylinders.

 

Hit it with the dingleberry brush right quick. It's not rocket science but it is important that they have a good finish before assembely.

Just my two cents.


Modified by Stop the Beast at 11:27 AM 2/26/2006

 

3 stone it is. The first time I did it it came out like shiz, but then I saw a CK10 hone machine and how fast it went up and down and ever since they have come out great.

 

im replacing my rings shortly and i dont want to take the block out and give it to the machinist. cause somhow instead of spending 500 on this rebuild ill be spending 1k and i dont have that. so i just want to clean the cylinder wall myself and i want to know what is the best tool i can do this with. you guys mensioned like 3 diff. kinds. where can i get the best on for my needs. im replacing the rod bearings and pison rings. (gaskets/seals) so where can i find this tool or tools i should use before just putting brand new rings on and accembling.

 

I would just use a dingleball hone to deglaze. Then you know that didn't really remove any materal, but just knocked off the glaze. If the motor only has 20,000 miles on it, I would just throw new rings in it & not even mess with a hone.

 

use a Flex-Hone tool with 400 grit for deglazing

 

are these tools expensive or i can just use like a drill with the bit. and where can i get this. can i also rent it? i dont want to buy a $100 tool. ebay sounds good to me they got this <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GB41832-BRM-Flex-Ball-Hone-SBC-Moly-320-Grit-
350-Chevy_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQitemZ30008 9890197QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW" TARGET="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW</A>
but im gonna check out auto parts store near me first


Modified by Kr4nG at 11:40 PM 3/10/2007

 

I just bought a flex hone tool for $40 shipped... for a 3-1/2 inch I think (or 3-1/4) from ebay.

 

The only way I would rent one is if it came with new stones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kr4nG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are these tools expensive or i can just use like a drill with the bit. and where can i get this. can i also rent it? i dont want to buy a $100 tool. ebay sounds good to me they got this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
but im gonna check out auto parts store near me first</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be too big for your cylinders. 81mm is like 3.189 inches or so. I can't remember I have it written down at home. So a 3.5 inch one would be good for the b-series and also good enough for maybe an H-motor as well. Plus they expand a little while swirling around. At least the one I had did. 400 grit is a good recommendation.

Sorry for bringing this back but I bought the 3 stone honer but it cam with 2 or 300 grit so I haven't used it yet and talked to a local mechanic I deal with some and he let me borrow his dingleberry ball. I used that last night - and it cam out pretty good. Gonna try one more time tonight with drill on reverse to get the cross hatch part looking good.
I did two things to check how much surface was.
1. I took an old ring that was in there and measured gap first then honed put ring back in and measured gap again. 2. used a not very good mic but it was good enough to tell me that I didn't remove any surface area the new rings wouldn't be able to be adjusted for.

Be sure to spray wd40 or a lubricant in the cylinders as you don't want to hone dry as it could leave scratches you don't want. Clean real well with soapy water and then respray sleeves and all metal with wd or something to stop rusting.

And I would have to drive minimum of 2 hours to find a machine shop that I trust. The ones here just don't cut it.

 

What i do is just use a drill and regulate the speed to half 3/4. I then pour varasol down in the cylinder and begining honing. Before doing any honing make sure that the cylinder is not out of round or has to be machined. The correct honing angle is roughly 60 degrees take or give so you want to be fairly quick movement up and down the cylinder. I am sure there is numerous amounts of information that you can find on the internet about grids and general things you should know about it. Honing is not hard neither is engine building. Engines in general are precisionly build so certain things should be done at the machine shop. However if you have a low mileage engine and the bore is perfect a quick hone is a simple task. Just do your research!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arc_55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What i do is just use a drill and regulate the speed to half 3/4. I then pour varasol down in the cylinder and begining honing. Before doing any honing make sure that the cylinder is not out of round or has to be machined. The correct honing angle is roughly 60 degrees take or give so you want to be fairly quick movement up and down the cylinder. I am sure there is numerous amounts of information that you can find on the internet about grids and general things you should know about it. Honing is not hard neither is engine building. Engines in general are precisionly build so certain things should be done at the machine shop. However if you have a low mileage engine and the bore is perfect a quick hone is a simple task. Just do your research!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I went pretty quick and my battery was low so yeah. I have to go back again and do the reverse to get the cross hatch.
DIY