<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoolin84Gsl-se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool thanks, I ask because i have my ls block at my cousins house trying to get it ready to put in my 92 hatch. Since it's out I wasnt too sure to get the ctr pistons put in. I think im staying with the stock LS pistons. I plan to autox this car a lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

since you are already building it, i strongly recommend getting some pr3's or p30 pistons and arp rod bolts.
And be done with the bottom end..

 

yes, vtecdamian said the rod bolts are a critical factor when building any engine. I just wasn't sure about getting ctrs because of labor cost. Thanks again

 

Easy, Mr. Tech. I just said noticeable rise, not turbo boost. If you can't notice it in the graph, what's that point where there's a sudden dip and then it kicks back up and continues on pretty much the same angle but slightly higher (not steeper, hard to explain)? Isn't that where this vtec happens (i myself hate the phrase "kick in")?

Or am i using the wrong word here? If by "rise" you took it as a suddenly steeper angle in the graph, then i apologize for my lack of vocabulary. That isn't what i meant.

And what's the point of all the years honda put into vtec if you can't feel it? Is something wrong when you feel, after a certain rpm, that the car is pulling harder? Was the higher profile lobe in the cam designed so you won't notice? I find that hard to believe. Please enlighten me.

And by the way, it took the tuner just an hour to dyno and tune the car.


Modified by SiRP at 5:03 PM 7/12/2004

 

look at a chart from any well known tuner and ytou will see the transition is almost seamless and the powerband makes gobs of power compared to where the VTEC crossover is set too high

 

We didn't tamper with the crossover. The only decent mod my car has ever had are CTR cams and adjustable gears. Just tweaked the timing. The car did gain power all over the band. I revised my previous reply to clarify what i meant by "rise". Hope that clears things up some.

By the way, since you're here, does having 17" wheels affect dyno numbers, i.e. would i get a different read if i had 15s instead? Let's assume the 17s are heavier. Tried to ask this before but no one bothered to answer. Hope you'll take the time. Thanks.

 

How much would it cost to put in pistons and rod bolts if just the block was delivered? average price? I've never opened up a piston motor. I used to have a turbo 84 rx7 so i dont know much about the b18a1.

 

 

This thread is overrated.....

 

do you have a pic of that ls1 rx7?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We didn't tamper with the crossover. The only decent mod my car has ever had are CTR cams and adjustable gears. Just tweaked the timing. The car did gain power all over the band. I revised my previous reply to clarify what i meant by "rise". Hope that clears things up some.

By the way, since you're here, does having 17" wheels affect dyno numbers, i.e. would i get a different read if i had 15s instead? Let's assume the 17s are heavier. Tried to ask this before but no one bothered to answer. Hope you'll take the time. Thanks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

with those cams you need some sort of fuel/timing (vafc at minimum) correcton and something to adjust crossover to the proper location while on the dyno to make optimum power.

and yes if you have extremely heavy or oversized wheels it will effect your power output due to drivetrain losses, but it will not effect your output as much as you may think.

I will post a pic of a dyno graph that is tuned correctly and tell me if you are able to tell where crossover is.

 

here is a decent visual aid to showing you what a decent chart/decently tuned engine's output should lok like

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=913772\

it is not a prime example but you will get the idea

 

Wow, that IS smooth. 3 hours too. On the first graph, is vtec somewhere between 5.5 and 6? On the second, is it between 5 and 5.5?

Ya, I am planning on getting some headwork done, plus a custom exhaust. Put in the VAFC too.

BTW, thanks for answering my big wheel question. I used to be able to smoke the stock 195/55r15s. Now i can barely get a squeak out of my 215/40r17s. Is this a function of weight, a wider tire surface on the road, or both? If it's not much, by how much exactly is not much, 5 or so whp? Thanks again.