I did some reading through the stickys, and searched some topics and some of the links are helpful if you have some understanding of how timing works but here's my question:

Is there someone here that could provide a link, or give me a decent write up on how do to do your own timing using a timing light. I can figure most things out myself, timing eludes me to all hell and my car is approaching 86,000 miles and I like PREVENTATIVE maintenance and am looking to change my timing belt and water pump at the same time. Not concerned with the pump because once I'm in there it's no big deal to change that, just getting the timing right again. I know only to mark which way the belt will go, and where the belt will go above and under the pulleys and cog wheels, but once it's on I'm confused as to how to get it right back into time and how the hell you actually READ with a timing light. I've read the things as far as the markings for TDC but I don't get it when someone says "oh just advance it 18 degrees" How in the heck do you know how far 18 degrees is? Basically I would like a nice write-up or VERY informative link on how to do your own timing. Thank you in advance and sorry for the elongated post.

 

when you use a timing light point it at the crank pulley there should be a white line and 3 marks on it. the timing light should blink when the white line is at the middle mark top (TDC)..if it isn't loosen the distributor and advance or retard it till the white line gets to (TDC)..and i think that covers it.hope it helps

 

Thanks for the info! Now I know rotating the distributor can advance/retard the timing, so is it a feasible statement to just pull the old belt off, then put the new one on and adjust the timing by the distributor or is turning by hand the crank pully a MUST do and you have to fine tweak with the distributor?

 

first thing is to make sure ur timing marks ar right with the cam and crank if ur car is running fine now then the marks are ok you shouldnt have to move them to pull off the old belt or put the new one on

 

but after you put it together and you wana fine tune with the timing light then you can use the dist.. as my first post

 

Thanks for the info!

 

1: Make sure engine idle is set correctly
2: jump the ECU check connector in lower pass. side dash (the one that usually gives you the CEL codes. This will tell the computer to not adjust timing internally as you move the dizzy physically.
3: Hook up timing light as per its instructions
4: Aim at crank pulley with engine running at normal operating temps
5: squeeze trigger and aim at the Crank pulley
6: Align timing mark on the Timing cover with center of the close 3 painted notches in the pulleys (ignore the notch to itself for this) I might get corrected on this part but: the 3 notches are spaced to be 10 degrees of timing (might be 15 or 5) but if you want to advance or retard your timing a tad this would be a good gauge to as how much.
7: Remove the timing light and turn off engine
8: Remove ECU back fuse under the hood and then remove the jumper wire previously installed. Leave fuse out for 5-10 mins to reset ECU
9: Put Fuse back in, Start the car, and let the engine run for about 2-3 mins to let the Idle reset in computer
10: Double check the idle speed on motor. If all is good then you're done.
11: pat yourself on the back

As for understanding what the degrees are:
It's kinda like a bicycle. The Pedals being the Pistons and the force of your foot being the force of the ignition of the air/fuel. If you put the pedal at the top dead center (TDC) and press straight down, you wont go anywhere. If you push the pedal forward some, and then press down it will give you the forward motion of the bike (the combustion stroke of the motor). now as for degrees...
Advancing it is like putting the pedal closer to the top center but all the way. Taking off like this will give you a more forcefull/faster take off on the bike (more HP to the motor. But this requires more stregnth from your leg (more motor stress)
Retarding the ignition timing is like moving the pedal farther from TDC. This makes it a LOT easier on the legs (motor) but doesnt get the force or power for the intial take off.
A circle is 360 degrees of course and is easiest when imagined 0degrees is TDC
The engine rotates counter clockwise so the degrees would label counter clockwise as well
OEM specs are about 16 degrees After TDC (varies with motor)
This drawing I made might help out in picturing it


P.S. Nice to help someone who helps so many others :D ---> Bart2546



Modified by Rigginit at 11:18 PM 12/30/2006

 

Ok now for the Engine timing. This part is fairly straight forward.

1: Line up the oil pump mark with the alignment mark on the block. This puts it at TDC being how the pump only goes on the one way.
2: Align the cam gears with "UP" marking in the upward position with the timing marks aligned with each other/facing each other in the middle. these when aligned right will also align with the horizontal line in the inner timing cover
3: With the tensioner loosened, tighten it down in the most loose position as to not interfere with the installation of the belt.
4: Install the timing belt. (Important if re-using old belt to keep it on the same direction it was on previously. Highly recommended to use a new one obviously though)
5: Once on and inline with gears/pulleys, loosen the tensioner bolt to allow it to tighten the belt. Do not re-tighten the tension bolt just yet.
6: Rotate the crank 3-6 full turns by hand slowly (Having the spark plugs out makes this much easier). Dont force it at anytime as pistons might be contacting the valves if the timing was not right. If all goes well, stop the crank again with the oil pump aligned with the mark. If you pass the mark continue on another rotation as to keep tension on the front side of the belt.
7: with oil pump aligned once again double check all markings are still ligned up perfectly and if so, tighten the tensioner bolt.
8: Good rule of thumb to rotate the crank after tension is tight another 3-6 rotations and triple check timing marks. If all stay aligned right then the motor is timed.

Rough drawing of the alignment marks on a DOHC

Cam gear alignment for SOHC

 

Awsome write up right there, now that I nominate for a sticky. Thank you much bro!