Replacing B18C valve stem seals
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,005
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Since I have the head off the car I figured I'd replace the valve seals since they were so cheap. But I didn't realize at first that special tools are required to replace them. I'm taking the head to the machine shop Monday to get it checked for any warping and also cleaned. Should I just let those guys replace the seals? Or are there any tricks to replacing them without special tools?
If the shop does it, could I save money be removing the valve train myself?
If the shop does it, could I save money be removing the valve train myself?
The springs can be removed with a basic c-clamp type compressor, there are other methods if you are a bit savy but the spring compressor is simple and easy. Once that is off and the valve is out you will have exposed the seal. Stubborn old seals tend to be a pain to get off but I have found a heat gun works really well to soften the rubber holding onto the guide. At that point getting the seal off depends on the types of pliers you have. I have a long needle nose with a 45 deg angle on the end that works well. There are other pliers sold by the tool companys that are round on the end and work perfectly to grab the seal. Just be careful not to mar up the guide.
At that point you will probably discover the ugliness of the exhaust valves and seats and not want to put it back together without freshening them up. When you take and older high mileage head off its basically like opening a can of worms, in my opinion.
At that point you will probably discover the ugliness of the exhaust valves and seats and not want to put it back together without freshening them up. When you take and older high mileage head off its basically like opening a can of worms, in my opinion.
i just bought 2 pairs of these removal pliers.

i just gave them a try and they work fantastic. combine them with a 10mm deep socket, 3/8ths extension and a small deadblow or rubber mallot to get the new seals on and you are good to go.

i just gave them a try and they work fantastic. combine them with a 10mm deep socket, 3/8ths extension and a small deadblow or rubber mallot to get the new seals on and you are good to go.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,005
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Pic says Pace Performance, is that where you got that tool from or were you just posting an image from Google search? If from Google, where did you find those?
i just went through this myself today with my k20 head. removed the valvetrain only to find out i didnt have anything suitable to remove the seals and seats. oh well, at least i got everything else out before dropping it off at the machine shop.
oh yea, pick up one of these spring compressors, makes the job super easy.

oh yea, pick up one of these spring compressors, makes the job super easy.

that was just a google search. i got mine off ebay, the sellers name is bracketracer. ive bought a bunch of stuff from him over the years always a good transaction.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,005
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Well the guy at the machine shop (older guy, has done machine work on a crap ton of Honda engines and heads), showed me an easy way to do it. He took a screwdriver and tapped on the lip around the outside of the old seal to free it up (destroys it in the process). Then he just taps the new one in place with a 10mm socket.
It looked fairly easy, but I just didn't want to fool with the whole valve train myself. He's going to clean up the head, shave the mating surface, replace my valve seals and cut the valve seat surfaces, and also replace a broken IM stud, for $125
It looked fairly easy, but I just didn't want to fool with the whole valve train myself. He's going to clean up the head, shave the mating surface, replace my valve seals and cut the valve seat surfaces, and also replace a broken IM stud, for $125
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ok i cant blame you. for onlly 125 bucks i would have a machine shop do it for me too.
i have to say though, that i used to use the screwdriver method, and those pliers are 10000000x easier no mess no hassle it takes literally 5 seconds per seal. worth every bit of the 17 dollars it cost
i have to say though, that i used to use the screwdriver method, and those pliers are 10000000x easier no mess no hassle it takes literally 5 seconds per seal. worth every bit of the 17 dollars it cost
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