Alright, I've been through a lot of threads on grounding...I mean a lot...And I still haven't been able to decipher/decide on my setup.

Subject: 91 CRX Si with a b20v (b18c/b20b)

My RyWire harness had to get shipped back to the manufacturer, so I am addressing all of my grounds. I want to be grounded, like woah. This car will have a "beefy" sound system, nothing for SPL competition but I run a good amount of power to the 6.5's in the doors and the 8's in the rear.

The Plan:

Relocated battery: 0/1g feed, 0/1g ground
Valve cover to chassis: stock valve cover location to chassis - 8g
Transmission: 98 LS tranny stock ground location - 8g
Engine ground to chassis: stock location - 8g


The Confusion:

-Do I need more valve cover points grounded?
-Throttle body ground? I've read it can help improve the idlle.
-Distributor/spark ground? I've read about this for alleviating a ticking sound.
-Alternator ground?

Thank you for your input, I'm just looking to get a straight answer here. I've found so much information, so I'm likely over-thinking things at this point...

 

****. Do them all.

 

Are they all really necessary though?

 

No.

 

Well, while the one liner responses have been entertaining, I wouldn't mind some additional banter and discussion thrown into the mix.

For example, do any of the extra -non-factory- ground points provide any difference?

 

I don't have a lot of experience with big stereos and any additional ground requirements that they may have, but I can say from experience that having the relocated batteries ground go to a solid, clean chassis ground is key, (I run mine through a kill switch on my bumper also) The ECU grounds at your thermostat housing should be super clean and tight. I also run the following grounds:
Transmission to chassis (8g)
Front of block (where old p/s bracket would be) to chassis (4G)
2x valve cover to chassis (8G)

I haven't experimented with other locations like some that you mentioned, but with this setup along with the completely new engine and ecu wire harnesses I built for my car (similar to Rywire and others), everything is perfect.
I don't think that having more grounds will ever have a negative effect, but in my experience there is no need to go overboard.

 

Thanks for the response Jay.

What two locations on the valve cover did you use?

Also, I have to figure out if it matters where my tstat ground goes. As my tstat has a couple locations that a ground could go. I doubt it, but ya never know.

Thanks again.

 

The only reason that the VC needs to be grounded is to stop corrosion from.occuring. one small ground strap is plenty.

The trans ground is very important. I would go.with a 4g ground there, and you could also do a similar one some where on the timing blet side of the block. One from the cylinder head to the chassis would be good as well. That should be three solid grounding points, there should be no need to have anymore than that. And like was said above, make sure the Tstat ground is clean and tight.

 

Thanks for chiming in F22.

I've read that adding additional engine grounds can cause issues like killing your battery. I have nothing to support this, buy I've read it in several instances.

 

That would be wrong.

 

That makes sense since the valve cover is electrically isolated from everything else due to all the rubber seals and grommets.

My valve cover has two identical threaded nubs on the timing belt end so I used those, but like stated above these are the least important of the grounds.
Your thermostat ground should have one short bolt that is for the ground terminal, you don't want to split your ECU grounds across different locations, doing this will run the risk of introducing voltage offsets and signal noise into your electronics circuit. Clean the aluminium housing, the bolt and the ground leads with some scotch-brite or sandpaper, and make sure that it's nice and tight.

 

just make sure the engine block grounds are good, especially if you have changed to a higher output alternator, if the block grounds are bad, it will try to ground through the throttle cable, or the clutch cable, and on the older cars the speedometer cable, which can ruin the cluster, also current can try to leach through the heater core, ruining it, this happens a lot of high power stereo setups, with insufficient grounds

 

This was my TSTAT ground, prior to cleaning. You can see where the bolt is, which is the location I was using, but there is a threaded hole right next to it as well. I really can't see it making a difference.

 

valve cover studs are not isolated as they screw directly into the cam caps and are grounded through the head, which is grounded by the head studs, the one at the thermostat is important as it helps keep stray currents from trying to ground through the heater core,this causes corrosion of the core, and it eventually leaks

 

if you want some really nice looking grounds, you can use the braided copper from inside TIG cables, it slides right out, cover it with clear heat shrink, you just need a good crimper for the terminals though like a rotary crimper, if you make the cables, any good electrical shop will probably do the crimps for a few bucks

 

Not concerned as I'm pulling the heater core all together. But, I obviously still want to be grounded properly.

How's that TSTAT spot I posted?

 

just make sure the block is grounded good to the body, run the thermostat ground, and the tranny ground and you should be fine

 

it's hard to tell in the pic, but one thermostat ground is before the O ring and one after, shouldnt make a huge amount of difference though as the thermostat cover is still grounded through it's bolts