when i drive it the needle go up past half way and then i let off and it instantly goes to normal operating temp, and then i get back to running rpm like at 60mph and it goes right back to hotter than normal. then it started getting really hot, i was riding very limply near the H and then past the H. when we have the rad cap off it runs smooth and starts spatting out lots of water, we put more in and it runs then spats more water like crazy. its the same thermostat that i had 3 days before that ran fine. the rad cap fell apart but i cant see that making me over heat like crazy, its still put together in the cap hole the same way but its holding it self together when its closed. its a b18a block, b16a head, blockgaurd, je pistons, eagle rods, blah blah. earlier it was running 5 notches over normal temp and right when i let off it would instantaneously drop to normal. but the longer i drove the less that trick would work. what the hell?? do i need to keep running with the cap off and pouring more in. would a busted rad cap do this. the bitch is steaming out the overflow reservoir after a while.

 

ttt

 

does it fill up the resivor? if so you should check out your headgasket! Mahdavi Motorsports in ATL should be able to fix it. They are big time HONDA people.

http://www.mahdavimotorsports.com

 

i dont need a shop to change the headgasket. but yes the coolant reservoir was full, but that thing can get full with a normal running car on a hot day and then it will suck it back in. it can fluctuate like crazy.

 

THe radiator cap maintains the pressure in the cooling system. It is necessary for the cooling system to have pressure. If the cap is broken or not working, you need to replace it. You will be amazed that such a simple thing will make a difference.

The pressure keeps the water from boiling.

I would start with replacing the cap

 

yeah its pretty fucked. the spring and gasket fell into the radiator. LOL!! good thing is flows downward.

 

Did you replace the cap yet?
Did it work?

 

i replaced cap, filled water, had to jump it off, filled it while it was running cause it was low. went to drive off, bogged to a stop no power. wouldnt recrank, popped hood, smelled burning electrical **** on driver side, HAS TO BE ALTERNATOR as i guess it didnt charge battery during its idle for 20 minutes at all, WHAT THE **** IS THAT **** LUCK!!

 

got the overheating problem fixed. now i got a weird BOG. a little history: the motor i pulled out i had tuned a few months ago...when i went to get it tuned i messed with the map sensor hoses just before i pulled it up, it started doing this weird skip miss things right when i would crank it and i could actually press in the throttle and the revs would fall. it would do that for 20 seconds and then stop. well ITS DOING THE EXACT SAME THING ON MY NEW MOTOR, but now after its run for 20 or so seconds theres a bog from 1-2000 rpm 2500rpm tops but once i get it up there it rev pretty decently like a car would with a sc61 on it. it makes for a very hard acceleration from a stop unless i rev it high and tap the clutch feathering as i go and the car is responsive. i had a moderate tune done on the old motor which was a b16a and it was with 450cc injectors. now im running the ls block with 9.7:1 ish compression and i think it may be leaning out to hell and back but i dont think that could cause this bog. im gonna try a couple of sensors tomorrow, mainly TPS and MAP and see if those fix it, if not then im looking into the TUNE for the problems because bogs are 99% electrical issues and its not a skip like the ignition problems usually cause.

 

So what caused the overheating?

 

i changed thermostat drained and refilled with heater on at idle. everything is fine now, i dont think the headgasket is blown since it would prolly still over heat like crazy regardless if it was. doesnt even get to halfway now.

now for this bogg in the low end, im thinking im lean as **** and it just doesnt have the resources to rev her up, guess ill have to take her to get tuned for a base to drive on.

 

what about the spark plugs, are the in correctly?

 

So was the broken cap the culprit of the overheating?

did you get the other problem solved?

 

thermo was stuck when i yanked it. but it still slightly did it one time after i changed it after a week. but after i got it tuned, nothing not a damn thing. ive heard to lean or to rich and you can overheat a little. everything is fixed now, good to roll, base tune 230whp and 170 torque 7 psi.