I am entertaining the idea of building up a d16 for boost in my spare time (I can get one for pretty cheap), and I was wondering what kind of tools would come in handy? I already have fairly basic stuff, wrenches, ratchets, bunch o' sockets (basically a 160 piece mechanic tool set from sears). I know its probably not the wisest idea to dive into something like that, armed with only a Helms manual and only some basic engine know how, but I like to learn things the hard way I guess!

Any helpful suggestions welcome.


Modified by piscorpio at 2:37 PM 12/10/2003


Modified by piscorpio at 2:37 PM 12/10/2003

 

First, what kind of boost are you wanting to run?

 

Tons!!

To be honest, its just the very begining of a vague plan Ive started to hatch up. I know I could probably push stock internals to about 10 psi safely, at least for a while. I guess we would be talking more in the 15+ psi range.

What I really hope to achieve at the very least, is learn the ins and outs of this engine through actual experience. Ive read alot about them, now its time to actually get my hands dirty.

 

Post the block, get some JE, Wiseco or Arias pistons, Eagle rods, ACL bearings, ARP head studs and you should be good for 15-20psi if you tune it correctly (ie Hondata, Zdyne or AEM EMS).

Even thou posted D16 blocks have known to hold 20-25psi daily driven fine (VERY well tuned, of course), I'd recommend you go ahead and get some iron sleeves. ARI makes D16 sleeves for under $200/set + add installation.

It's all about the tuning, even a well-built motor is very easy to blow if not tuned correctly.

 

Good tips, thanks for the info. However, I really wanted to know more about exactly what tools it will require to get the job done? I have a sense of what parts to use more or less (I will be looking into the ARI sleeves though, and doing some homework on posting the block).

I definitely understand the importance of tuning, a Hondata should be in the works among other goodies.


[Modified by piscorpio, 7:39 PM 8/24/2002]

 

In addition to basic hand-tools:

Torque wrenches, cylinder hone, piston ring expander, piston ring compressor, compression tester

That's all I can think of right now...

Some stuff you will have to let a machine shop do.

 

Plastigage

Clay - only if you're uncertain about piston-to-valve clearances....which you shouldn't be unless you're running bigger cams or really high compression pistons

Inside micrometers (one for crank bores and one for rod bores) - measuring bore taper and out-of-roundness; also used for measuring the mainshaft and rod bores to determine bearing sizes for the target clearance. You could probably also get away with just using a set of telescoping gauges and using the outside micrometer to measure the telescoping gauge. For the cylinder bore out-of-roundness and bore taper measurements, I bought a cylinder bore dial gauge....not good for taking exact measurements, but does well with just those two measurements...if you so choose.

Outside micrometers (0.000" to 1.000", 1.000" to 2.000", 2.000" to 3.000") - if you wanna mic the crank and rod journals for the bearing clearances instead of using plastigage

At some point you'll need some abnormally large box wrenches to remove sensors from the block. You might be able to get by with a large adj wrench.

Feeler gauges

5/8" Spark plug socket

I left the honing to the machine shop, as well as cutting the new valve seats, installing valve guides, pressing the wrist pins in/out, etc. The Helm's manual will give you a good feel for what's in and out of your capability and budget. We all wish we could afford a machine shop in our backyard, but nobody could afford it.


[Modified by IN VTEC, 10:26 PM 8/24/2002]

 

Uhh...adding to the list

Block of wood and rubber mallet or oil seal driver for putting in main oil seal

One ESSENTIAL tool....a factory service manual (ie HELMs) which you already have...just read through it, it tells you everything w/ great diagrams.


[Modified by 00civicvtec, 11:25 PM 8/24/2002]

 

I also forgot to mention....

Valve Spring Compressor Tool

Magnetic Rod - to fish out the valve keepers from the retainers while other person is busy hold the valve springs down

 

More stuff I forgot.

Dial gauge with a screw-down type base. Magnetic obviously does no good b/c the blocks are alumnium. On Chevy cast-irons, it would be ok to use magnetic bases.

They're used for crank/rod journal run-out measurements, cam profiling, end play measurements.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I will take this stuff down as my "shopping list". This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I appreciate it IN VTEC, 00CivicVtec, big thumbs up!

Now I just need a victim to work on!

 

Just read your Helms and you will be fine...if you have any specific questions feel free to ask, I've got my D16Y8 torn apart right now.

Also, if you need any OEM honda parts goto hparts.com, that is where I get everything, they have everything in stock and I have yet to find any place selling OEM parts cheaper! Plus they don't rape you on shipping!

If you need part numbers, I've got those as well.

 

Thanks for the offer of help, I may take you up on that one day. I learned about hparts a while back also, its a huge difference from the dealership!!

I assume you are turbocharging your d16y8? Why is it torn apart right now, in the midst of a rebuild?

 

Yup, I'm waiting on the machine shop to finish up a few things, and then I've got to send my rods to Brian (Crower) to rebush them and put them on on my pistons, and then the motor goes together.

Here is my setup:

D16Y8 longblock and pistons
LS rods custom fitted (milled/rebushed)
ACL race bearings
ARP rod bolts and head studs
Complete rebuild (minus head) using OEM parts

And then I'm adding and a few other goodies:
OBD1 conversion running a P28 ecu
Custom T3 intercooled setup boosting 12psi

I am looking for around 225whp

 

sounds cool man. What made you go with LS rods versus aftermarket? lower budget? I wasn't sure any other OEM rods would work with the d16, how much work is it to get them to fit, and how much does it usually cost (I assume altogether its less than a set of aftermarket rods)? Also, with LS rods, do you need only to modify the rods themselves? (any notching of the block necessary, as with other rods?)

 

Well, they are cheaper, don't require me to use aftermarket pistons, they will hold way more than I plan on pushing them, to be different, to prove it can be done and thats 1 more OEM Honda part in my car.

Plus when I am finished I will do a writeup so other people can do it, with no second-guessing.

Basically the machine shop is milling 0.035" off the width of the big end (1/2 of that on each side) and putting back in the angle that's on the edges for proper crank fitment, then I am sending them off to Brian Crower to get them rebushed so they fit with the D16 pins (they are smaller than the B-series pins). I also am getting some ARP rod bolts pressed it, just for the hell of it and of course they will reconditioned the rod as well after pressing in the bolts.

I will take plenty of pics, it will be easier to understand!

LS rods clear the block just fine, so I have been told numerous times, but I will be checking and I will notch the block myself if necessary which is really not a big deal.

 

So much to do, I better get crackin'. Thanks for the help guys, if anyone has anything to add...