My damn car will not rev past 2000rpm. I checked the ecu for codes and I am not sure if I am reading them correctly. I think it is either a code 5-10-or 15. I think I am getting a code 15 though. What can this be. My car is running hondata S100 w/boost and 780cc injectors. The car is buring gas like mad and blowing black smoke like crazy. Someone help me out ASAP. I already tried a new map sensor but it made no difference. The car is an 2001 GSR with a fully built motor.

 

Ok, when you check the codes, is it 5 short blinks, a pause then 2 long blinks?

Tell me exactly how the blinks go in accordance with pauses and such.

Keep us posted.

 

okay it goes like this. 1 long blink then a long pause. 1 long blink short pause then 5 fast flashes. It then repeats the code again and again.

 

Ok, that is code 10 and code 15

code 10 = IAT (Intake Air temperature sensor) which is a white plug on theside of the intake manifold

code 15 = Ignition Output Signal missing or defective ignition output signal

Make sure the IAT is not broken and plugged in properly.

As for the Ingnition, retard your timing, and make sure you have good spark and good spark plugs.

check those and keep us posted.

 

would fouled out plugs make this code appear. It runs crazy rich from the base map and the big injectors. It was running good then starting getting crappy the farther I went.

 

yes, fouled out plugs is the main cause, or faulty or bad connection on the spark plug wires.

also make sure the cap and rotor is in good condition and clean. you may want to pull off the dist cap and inspect it.

and turn down fuel pressure!

 

Okay so I found one of my problems. My IAC and my IAT sensor were connected incorrectly. I had them switched. After switching the plugs around I am now getting a code 14 which is for the IAC sensor. When I start my car the rpm goes to like 4000 rpm and will not drop. I can't even rev it up any higher with the pedal. What can be the problem now? Do you think I killed that sensor?

 

Possibly. Hard to troubleshoot on this. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks

 

well its hard to find a vaccum leak when my car idles at like 4000rpm. It was only pulling about 10lbs of vaccum before though when it was idling at about 1300rpm

 

Time to go over that car with a fine tooth comb. At least you have a code to narrow it down. If you have access to a Helms then look at that and make sure everything is connected properly. Look in the electrical section to verify wire colors so you have all connectors connected to the right plug.
Check for vacuum leaks also. If a leak is causing it to rev to 4k then the leak should be pretty audible.
Remove the IACV and visually check it.
Troubleshooting is a pain in the *** but you have a serious problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedymon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Time to go over that car with a fine tooth comb. At least you have a code to narrow it down. If you have access to a Helms then look at that and make sure everything is connected properly. Look in the electrical section to verify wire colors so you have all connectors connected to the right plug.
Check for vacuum leaks also. If a leak is causing it to rev to 4k then the leak should be pretty audible.
Remove the IACV and visually check it.
Troubleshooting is a pain in the *** but you have a serious problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great info

Also check the fast idle valve underneath the throttle body and make sure the o ring seals are good, clean the IACV and fast idle with brake/carb cleaner.

keep us posted.

 

I pulled of the IAC but it was spotless since the car only has 7000 miles. I am out of ideas.

 

Did the IACV rattle when shook? Did this 4k rpm surge happen right after you cleared the other codes? I suppose you don't hear a serious vacuum leak huh? A leak that causes a surge that high will pull air in very very fast. You should be able to hear it.
If you have a buddy with a teg start swapping parts.
Go the the auto store or radio shack and get an Ohm meter or voltmeter (don't know the name). Get your hands on a Helms and start verifying voltages from your sensors. If it's not a vacuum leak then your ecu is getting shitty readings.
Another possibility is that your ecu is the cause. I don't know about Hondata stablility but maybe when the sensors got crossed something went haywire.

 

no it did not rattle. It started to do this right after I got my replacement hondata unit. My other unit burnt up at my dyno session. There was something wrong with the injector controller section of the ECU.

 

recheck my post. I edited it.

 

yeah maybe. I am just so mad about this whole deal. I hope someone is close to me and can help me out. I will keep everyone updated.

 

I got dibs on incorrect TPS voltage or a failing or shorted ICM (ignitor).

 

so what does that mean? Is my damn ECU fried again?

 

Check your TPS voltage (middle wire to ground at fully closed and fully closed).

Ignitor is in the distributor.

Now that you mention it, a Code 15 could be caused by a faulty ECU. You have to make the voltage and continuity checks to determine which.