with a deckplate you need the lengthened sleevs, so you have to resleeve it...

 

stroking and deckplating can be done but then you really get into modifying alot of things which gets costly in the end. IMO i would try to keep it simple and fairly inexpensive. use the LS crank for the most displacement and stock sleeves without alot of hassle or $$. or resleeve with a large overbore for maximum displacement using either the LS or GSR crank. changing the crank, rods, sleeves and adding a deckplate is just too much IMO, unless you have lots of $$ and it's a track car running N/A.

 

Yes with the $3000 i want it to include resleeving.Yea deckplate is good,but i heard alot of the stuff is going to be custom which in the end will probably cost more than 3g's.

 

Off my head...I believe it is 1.54

 

GSR=1.58 and LS=1.54. very close as you can see. the LS block has 1.8mm more crank stroke but has a .9mm shorter rod length than the GSR crank/rods.

 

What about a gsr block with an ls crank in it?I heard when i resleeve it will make my gsr like a b20 cause of the stroke of the ls crank and the bore being 84mm and over.

EDIT:Also the gsr block will have the girdle and oil squirters to make it more ready for vtec and high rpms.


[Modified by J2turbo21, 7:32 AM 3/16/2003]

 

Do exactly what you were thinking. Send the block to Golden Eagle and have standard($750) sleeves installed or godzilla($850) sleeves installed. Then have it bored to 85(1979cc) or 86mm(2026cc). I stuck w/ 85mm bore because these JE pistons are a easier to find and it leaves 1mm to bore out later if needed. Don't bother w/ the LS crank. You'd gain 40cc displacement at that bore, increase piston speeds, and lower your r/s ratio to 1.54:1. Either head will work, but if the b16 head has been worked on by Alaniz then I'd favor that one as well, they do great work. You'll also want to adress your fuel requirements while building it. I went w/ 39#(400ishCC) motorsport(Bosch) injectors to save $$$ of RC injectors. Get Hondata and have it tuned and you'll have a very nice little hot rod.

 

Just buy my ge sleeved block I have for sale I had the ls crank gsr block setup, and I'm going back to a gsr crank. The longer stroke killed my topend, I was peaking at 8100 with toda b's . I did however put down 220.

 

Also keep in mind that the head you have was milled .035 . So when you pick pistons you dont want 12.5 ones because you allready picked up 1.5 cr just in the milled head. So if you put 12.5 pistons in it you would actually be at around 14.0cr

 

i also favor the GSR crank over the LS crank. IMO it's not worth it to switch the cranks to gain those few cc's. keeping the GSR crank, resleeving and overboring to 84-85mm is the way to go really. plus the R/S ratio (1.58) will still be decent for higher rpm power, which is what you normally need for a N/A setup.

and with the aftermarket pistons you don't even need the oil squirters so they can be taken out and tapped shut.

 

Ok i talked to my buddy and he said he has a 97ls motor with that need a new oil pump and a rod bearing for pretty cheap.I was thinking sleeve it,micorpolish the crank and maybe knife edge,eagle rods,84mm je pistons balance it and throw a vtec head on it.

Second option is just keep my gsr block go 84mm pistons and rebalance everything and im done.I want something thats not going to struggle with high rpms.

 

I did some searching and i think out of all the blocks the gsr or type r blocks would be best for me cause i dont feel like ls crank in a vtec block is worth it and i dont like the fact that the b20 and ls blocks dont have girdles for the extra strenght.Probably either keep my block and bore it to 84mm or sell it and build another vtec block.

 

working with what you already have is the way to go. the GSR/ITR blocks have a decent R/S ratio so they can handle some high rpm abuse, but still have that low end power close to the LS just not as much.

or if you really want a high rpm style motor go with the B17A or B16A block since the R/S ratios are much better at 1.68 and 1.74. then sleeve and use 84mm pistons to get more displacement. that way you have a little bit of both, the better R/S ratio and the larger displacement close to 1.8L.

but the GSR block with 84mm will be almost 2.0L which is great for N/A setups.

i guess it's a tradeoff between the B18C, B17A or B16A, but IMO the B18C is the best to go with though it can't rev as high safely compared to the other 2 blocks.

 

B17s r/s ratio is 1.619:1.

 

I guess im going to stick with the b18c blocks for all the obvious reason.Not worth the longer stroke for the lower r/s ratio and the little displacement it makes.Thanks to all of you how helped and gave your knowledge.I hope others will use the search button next time they need help.

 

i'm not sure how you came up with 1.61?

maybe there is something i'm missing but a 137mm rod length divided by a 81.4mm stroke comes out to 1.6830. just like a 134mm B16A rod divided by a 77mm stroke equals 1.7402.

 

Easily. B17 rods are 132.3mm not 137mm as are b18a/b rods. The stroke of the B17 crank is likewise not 81.4mm, but 81.7mm.

So the math is 132.3/81.7=1.619339.

If you think about it there's no way b17 rods could be 137mm(despite what the ding-a-lings at Eagle say) because b16 rods are 134.4mm. Now subract 2.35mm((81.7-77)/2) from the 134.4 and you get 132.05mm. So @ 132.3mm b17 rods will put the piston .25mm further out of the hole which accounts for the .5 increase in static c/r when you put b17 crank and rods in a b16.

 

Good choice. The b18c is the best b series block there is IMO and despite the price premium it commands it's easily worth it for all the potential it has.

 

Yea i just found a built gsr block that imma get and it should be kick ***.

 

yeah after i thought about it i realized the B17A rods couldn't be 137mm due to the increased stroke of the crank already, when compared to the B16A which uses the same block/deck height. i also realized it's not really possible for the crank stroke AND the rod length to be longer using the same block. in the case of the B16A and B17A comparison, the B17A would need a bit shorter rod considering the longer stroke in order keep the piston top within the deck height and for there to be enough clearance too. though the pistons are domed differently.

so what aftermarket rods can be used with the B17A block/crank? are the B16A rods the closest ones to use, other than custom length rods?

thanks for the info.

 

Damn i cant get that gsr block.

 

B16 rods are the closest OEM Honda rods, but they're not close enough and the pistons will be too far out of the hole. I believe Crower makes b17 rods. Another option would be shot peening and balancing b17 rods and using arp rod bolts.