I did a search but i didnt really find much.Which would be the best block for building an all motor setup.Im looking resleeve and build it up so what would be the best.Im hoping to get over 220whp and was wishing for 250+whp.

I got a gsr block now that is sleeved and i was going to bore it out to 84mm with some je high comp pistons and slap a built b16a head on it that i bought.But was wondering if there are other blocks that would give more torque and hp.Should i just stick with my gsr block or should i go with another bottom end.

If i sell my block and the cash i got,i probably got lets say $3000 just for the bottom end.


[Modified by J2turbo21, 7:50 AM 3/14/2003]

 

You should buy my shortblock! https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=405939

 

I would stick with the B18C.
Jay

 

Yea, your GSR block will work just fine. As long as you get the right internals & headwork, not to mention all the bolt on stuff you will need, 220+ shouldn't be a problem. Good Luck.

 

tou should try to get a gsr head it flows better and the combistion chamber is shaped different and will work better with the bigger 2.0+ blocks

 

One word.... DART

 

I thought it was DARTON??? Yeah they would be a good place to call. I would guess that if you want 250+ out of the block, you'd want to get a bit bigger piston 86-87mm (prelude) which will be more torque as well. I'm not sure if you can take the B18 to this bore, and even if you could I think you'd have issues if you blew the motor. I could be wrong though it may very well be possible to hit 250 with 84mm pistons @ 13:1 compression with a JUN (or similar) setup. I've not played with over boring that much.

 

Getting a gsr head wouldn't be a good idea, the combustion chambers are shaped different to burn fuel better and helps prevent detonation <U>but</U> if you get good size pistons and keep a good compression ratio you shouldn't have any problems with the b16a head you already have and it flows better. If you decide to go with a 2.0(b20) use the b16 head with it.

 

Nope...

I'm talking about a Dart block not Darton sleeves or services. Dart manufactuors a custom block with increased deck height, closed deck, virgin aluminum, etc. Primo piece but $1950... ouch. Even so, you'd spend around that much to get the custom machine work done to a stock block to equal what the Dart block already is


[Modified by BabyDaddy, 6:43 PM 3/14/2003]

 

a B18C with 84mm bore will get you almost 2.0L. some even go to 86 or 87mm when they use a resleeved B18 for the maximum displacement N/A. 84 or 85mm is still enough though. a 2.0L block with the B16A head + a little head work and the right cams/bolt-ons should get you to 220WHP easily. with the perfectly matched components and really good tuning you could do much more than 220WHP. maybe even think about an ITB setup, some have had excellent results even on a 'street' motor. as for C/R go with at least 12.2-12.5:1 to make the power. or higher if you need/want to.

 

itb's and 12.5 or 13:1 compression is not necessary. It will help, but you dont need it for 220whp. Especially if this is a daily driver. I have seen 11.5:1 compression and no itb's making 240+whp.

 

I'll try to answer everyones questions so you can help me out best.

GM2000ITR i would get that block if it was sleeved.Im really looking to resleeve for extra strength.

I have a gsr head right now but it has oversized valves so im looking to sell it.I already purchased a b16a head that has been ported buy portflow and allaniz with jun valvetrain that has proven 242whp all motor with jun 3 cams on a b20 block probably built.So if you guess already im going with jun 3 cams.

About the dart blocks,i think its just he block with no internals so i dont think i could afford that.

I was just going to go with 84mm but I found someone to buy my block for 2100bux plus i got some more cash.Probably around 3g's for a new block and building it.I wanted something like 85mm or maybe 86mm but from what import review told me that i can make 215+ with 84mm bore.

This aint my daily drive since i got another car,but it will be driven to and from the race track.I dont want to have to run race gas every where i go.

I think im going to stay away from ITB's for now and IB told me to go with 12.5c/r on my gsr block.I just dont know which one cause there are so many different kinds and you got ls with 95mm cranks and whatever else hehe.I want something that is going to give me TQ and bring me into the 12's.I got the head i just need a block.

 

any 1.8+ block with a resleeve, you have all the same options...

 

I heard something about making the motor square like the bore and the stroke being closer to each pther.Also once you resleeve the streght is there so it all comes down to the bore and stroke,right?

 

rod /stroke ratio...ideal is about 1.75...and yes basically bore, stroke, compression..and tuning

 

So which block would give me the best of the above except the tuning and i know compression depends on alot of things.

 

the B16A has a 1.74 R/S ratio stock. you can resleeve that and overbore to 84mm to get about 1.75L. that's what i'm doing for my next setup. the B18C R/S ratio isn't too bad but it's one of the lowest. the B17A is good also being about 1.68 i believe.

 

yes i've seen nice setups making over 240WHP without the ITB's or crazy high C/R. i was just throwing things out there to make the most power possible. i didn't mean that ITB's and/or 13:1 C/R are needed to make 220+WHP.

 

whats the r/s ratio of gsr's and how do you get that number?

 

This was you in the first post...
And now your asking this?

 

HEhe well i didnt search the r/s ratio it was a question that came about during the conversation.

 

length of rod/ stroke....fairly self explanitory..
and with alll the methods of stroking motors and different cranks, custom rods and whatnot...it reall doesnt make a whole lot of difference what block you get, just how much you have to spend...

 

hehe my dumb *** was dividing rod by bore size.Well i got about 3g's i was considering a deck plate and i found this link.Sounds like everything is going to be custom if do.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=211054&page=1

 

sell the GSR... buy a H22. Problem solved.

 

I could do that but i would rather keep it b-series.So come on now b-serieous hehe that was gay.