Alright. I've seen numerous amounts of posts. I've seen a lot of threads, and all the chatter is confusing the hell out of me. So I got a few questions. I have a 3rd gear grind, whenever my tranny gets hot. When I first drive around, there is no grind, even at redline. after I ride around a while, it will grind every damn time, no matter if I push the clutch in, til it idles, pull it into 2nd, back into 3rd, NASTY grind. but then again sometimes it wont...its confusing. So here are the questions I have:

Is the regular, GM synchromesh, round bottle, better or worse than the GM synchromesh FRICTION MODIFIED, (looks like oil quart). Seems like everybody is using either one with better or worse results, so people with their OWN experiences try to help me out with this. And also, how long does it take for it to kick in and work, if you have a pretty solid grind? thanks in advance.

 

I can't reply on synchromesh, but when I first bought my car, I treated the notchy and somewhat griding gears to Redline MTL. (I know that Redline is not what you are talking about but hold on with me here)

Synchormesh and Redline are like religions, people tend to swear by and be loyal to their choice, but I don't want to turn this into a debate of which is better ... just share my experience with what i consider a more apt aftermarket lubricant for the gear box (as is Syncromesh from my research).

I could immed. tell the difference in the ease of gear-inguagement and the crispness of my shifts. After a week of normal driving the grinds were extinct and driving/shifting was as close to effortless as I could wish.

Alright, now I leave the answering to your questions about the actual product to others with experience.

 

http://auto.snowsuperstars.com/mtf.html

I hope that helps.

 

ive used both. they get the job done but arent miracle products imo.

i put regular synchromesh in my gsr. it works fine but on cold cold days before it warms up sometimes it will grind when shifting.

in my crx i used the fm stuff. it didnt cure my 2nd gear grind i was experiencing. after i installed shifter bushings and engine mount inserts the grinding stopped.

 

I also heard that the Pennzoil and Quakerstate version are the EXACT same product as the GM, down to PART #, is this true...is there any proof, and where the hell can I find it? thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94B18B1Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also heard that the Pennzoil and Quakerstate version are the EXACT same product as the GM, down to PART #, is this true...is there any proof, and where the hell can I find it? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>The pennzoil is supposed to be the same stuff as synchromesh. On the back of the bottle, it says that it's made to GM specs. You can find it at any Autozone.

 

did this clear all your doubts?

 

forget about all of that, 10w 30 is the way to go. GM syncromesh is good, but onces that trans gets hot it does nothing to stop grinds, this is from experience. I always used 10w 30 then read all this crap about gm syncromesh so i tried it, it worked great but when the trans got hot it did nothing to prevent gear grinds. 10w30 IMO is the best for your OEM trans.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in my crx i used the fm stuff. it didnt cure my 2nd gear grind i was experiencing. after i installed shifter bushings and engine mount inserts the grinding stopped.

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dont mean to get too far off the topic but can the shifter bushing (one that goes on the tranny) be the culprit behind my NASTY 2nd gear grind?

it grinds EVERY time and i can only get it in at low speed... I am about to get the tranny rebuilt but i noticed that my bushing is a little tore up.. it goes in fine in all other gears..

thanks in advance..

 

I'm curious as well. I've also heard this from another post. Any help is

 

Worn shifter bushings will definitely make it harder to shift gears. I changed mine out and noticed a night and day difference when shifting into second gear.

For $10 you might as well give it a try and see if that's your problem.

 

my 2nd gear grind would happen only when i took it up to redline. the grinding i believe was due to the engine flexing and the shifter linkage going out of alignment for that split second. it basically lurches the engine more when reving high... which would make you think it is the synchros, but in my case it wasnt.

i suppose it's possible to happen at lower rpms if your mounts are really torn up, but i woudlnt get your hopes up. but like the other guy said, at 10$ it is prob worth giving a shot. I replaced both my engine mount inserts and the shifter bushings at the same time, so i dont know which one helped or if it was both.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hadehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

dont mean to get too far off the topic but can the shifter bushing (one that goes on the tranny) be the culprit behind my NASTY 2nd gear grind?

it grinds EVERY time and i can only get it in at low speed... I am about to get the tranny rebuilt but i noticed that my bushing is a little tore up.. it goes in fine in all other gears..

thanks in advance..</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

whats the deal with the 'honda crushed washer' you are supposed to replace the regular washer on the transmission bolts with all about? looked in that http://auto.snowsuperstars.com/mtf.html link and it was saying that. is this something i need to get from honda before i start my tranny flush?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my 2nd gear grind would happen only when i took it up to redline. the grinding i believe was due to the engine flexing and the shifter linkage going out of alignment for that split second. it basically lurches the engine more when reving high... which would make you think it is the synchros, but in my case it wasnt.

i suppose it's possible to happen at lower rpms if your mounts are really torn up, but i woudlnt get your hopes up. but like the other guy said, at 10$ it is prob worth giving a shot. I replaced both my engine mount inserts and the shifter bushings at the same time, so i dont know which one helped or if it was both.

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you're right, my grind is probably internal related.. my mounts are solid (DYI poly glue ) and its way to bad to be caused by engine movement.. like i said it goes in fine in all other gears so i usually just shift from 1st to 3rd.. sucks when i have to take turns in 3rd though... oh well time for a rebuild..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by '94gsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the deal with the 'honda crushed washer' you are supposed to replace the regular washer on the transmission bolts with all about? looked in that http://auto.snowsuperstars.com/mtf.html link and it was saying that. is this something i need to get from honda before i start my tranny flush?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't HAVE to but it's reccomeded.

 

^^^ anyone have a part number for that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hadehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you're right, my grind is probably internal related.. my mounts are solid (DYI poly glue ) and its way to bad to be caused by engine movement.. like i said it goes in fine in all other gears so i usually just shift from 1st to 3rd.. sucks when i have to take turns in 3rd though... oh well time for a rebuild..</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats why your syncros are faqed~