Running To Lean . . . . Why?
I"ll make this as short as possible . . . . a few weeks ago we took my stock d16z6 motor out that had 145k on it, and I slapped in a fresh y8 block that had like 30k on it, but I still kept my z6 head. Before we pulled the motor everything was good . . . at WOT I was running rich, and while cruising I would run stoich . . . .
Now that we got my car running with the y8 block I was watching the gauge lastnight (I know it's not 100% accurate) and it was barely reading Lean. I got DSM 450's still in my car as I will be boosting as soon as I get this LEAN problem fixed. At -34 on my vafc I use to run stoich, but now it runs way wicked lean.
If I add fuel and take it down to -22 I can sort of get it into the orange, but what could be causing my car to lean out so bad? After we start it and let it sit for a bit it just eventually dies out like it's not getting enough fuel, but why would this all of a sudden just happen out of no place?
Any and all help is welcome . . . I would like to get bosoted tonight! I got everything ready for boost . . . I just need to isntall my turbo manifold, and intercooler and that's all.
I do currently have the walboro 255lph just so I don't leave anything out that might factor in with the Lean problem.
AIM:vtec92civic
Thanks Everyone!
Now that we got my car running with the y8 block I was watching the gauge lastnight (I know it's not 100% accurate) and it was barely reading Lean. I got DSM 450's still in my car as I will be boosting as soon as I get this LEAN problem fixed. At -34 on my vafc I use to run stoich, but now it runs way wicked lean.
If I add fuel and take it down to -22 I can sort of get it into the orange, but what could be causing my car to lean out so bad? After we start it and let it sit for a bit it just eventually dies out like it's not getting enough fuel, but why would this all of a sudden just happen out of no place?
Any and all help is welcome . . . I would like to get bosoted tonight! I got everything ready for boost . . . I just need to isntall my turbo manifold, and intercooler and that's all.
I do currently have the walboro 255lph just so I don't leave anything out that might factor in with the Lean problem.
AIM:vtec92civic
Thanks Everyone!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you reset the ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>
how do I do that . . . I did remove the battery cable, but not sure that that will do it.
how do I do that . . . I did remove the battery cable, but not sure that that will do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how old is your o2 sensor? it might going bad on you, so you might want to check it out or replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
as far as I know it's the stock o2 sensor which has about 145k on it LOL
as far as I know it's the stock o2 sensor which has about 145k on it LOL
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The air fuel mixture is determined by
1. The preset map <-- when engine running in open loop such as warmup or some instances of limp mode.
2. O2 sensor <-- When engine is in close loop and factors the readings of the O2 sensor to add or reduce fuel injection pulse.
Are you absolutely positively sure you are running lean?
If you are running lean and the engine stumbles, it should detect it via the O2 sensor. If O2 sensor is bad, then you get a Check engine light.
1. The preset map <-- when engine running in open loop such as warmup or some instances of limp mode.
2. O2 sensor <-- When engine is in close loop and factors the readings of the O2 sensor to add or reduce fuel injection pulse.
Are you absolutely positively sure you are running lean?
If you are running lean and the engine stumbles, it should detect it via the O2 sensor. If O2 sensor is bad, then you get a Check engine light.
yeah check that o2 man. The same thing was happening to me and when I sold my DC header and took out the o2 that **** was hurt man. I put another one in that my friend gave me and it was working good again.
thanks everyone for the help
I"ll check on that tonight . . . it kinda sucks and is weird because before I took the motor out it was good, but now that we put the motor back in it's running lean . . . kinda weird how that works isn't it
I"ll check on that tonight . . . it kinda sucks and is weird because before I took the motor out it was good, but now that we put the motor back in it's running lean . . . kinda weird how that works isn't it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec92Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is weird because before I took the motor out it was good, but now that we put the motor back in it's running lean . . . kinda weird how that works isn't it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are working on 2 assumptions that might not be correct.
1. Your O2 sensor was good and is still is good. <--- @ 145K.. I doubt it was good to begin with. O2 sensors typically last 50-80K.
2. New Block is exactly the same as the old block. <--- The block may not be exactly and completely the same in terms of compression ratio and piston design which would affect its ability to run either rich or lean which could explain why yout engine sometimes stumbles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You are working on 2 assumptions that might not be correct.
1. Your O2 sensor was good and is still is good. <--- @ 145K.. I doubt it was good to begin with. O2 sensors typically last 50-80K.
2. New Block is exactly the same as the old block. <--- The block may not be exactly and completely the same in terms of compression ratio and piston design which would affect its ability to run either rich or lean which could explain why yout engine sometimes stumbles.
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I would simply adjust your VAFC settings. I have never run anything anywhere close to -34 or -22. Ouch, that sounds like the problem to me, but not 100% posative...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFanatic708 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would simply adjust your VAFC settings. I have never run anything anywhere close to -34 or -22. Ouch, that sounds like the problem to me, but not 100% posative...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I don't run -22 I just did that real quick to dump more fuel to try and richen it up . . . before this all went down I was running like -34 at idle on my last turbo setup.
What are your current vafc settings . . . I know they won't work with my setup but I am just curious.
I had a couple people say it sounds like I am running ridiculously rich, and the o2 sensor can get damaged from running overly rich. I pulled my spark plugs out but since they are the once I used while boosting it makes it hard to tell what's up in my motor . . .
They are still black, and at the toip of the Metal L that sits towards the piston heads that part is brown.
I was told that that meant I was running a perfect 14:1 af ratio, is that true?
</TD></TR></TABLE>well I don't run -22 I just did that real quick to dump more fuel to try and richen it up . . . before this all went down I was running like -34 at idle on my last turbo setup.
What are your current vafc settings . . . I know they won't work with my setup but I am just curious.
I had a couple people say it sounds like I am running ridiculously rich, and the o2 sensor can get damaged from running overly rich. I pulled my spark plugs out but since they are the once I used while boosting it makes it hard to tell what's up in my motor . . .
They are still black, and at the toip of the Metal L that sits towards the piston heads that part is brown.
I was told that that meant I was running a perfect 14:1 af ratio, is that true?
just picked up some new spark plugs in hopes that they would help, but they didn't. Is there a way for me to tell if I am running to rich or lean? I am dying to get boosted, and I have all the stuff to boost, just trying to solve this fuel related issue before I boost.
Just noticed that the lights on the autometer gauge don't even come on at all only when you first start the car for like maybe 20 seconds or so, and then it drops off, and I can't even get them to liht up at all . . . .
Apex'i Turbo Timer reads 20.0 and is flashing which means i'm lean off the chart but they are both run off the o2 sensor so they arer getting the same reading.
Someone Help me Get Boosted!
Just noticed that the lights on the autometer gauge don't even come on at all only when you first start the car for like maybe 20 seconds or so, and then it drops off, and I can't even get them to liht up at all . . . .
Apex'i Turbo Timer reads 20.0 and is flashing which means i'm lean off the chart but they are both run off the o2 sensor so they arer getting the same reading.
Someone Help me Get Boosted!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Who Said »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check for vacuum leaks</TD></TR></TABLE>
will do . . . that can cause a lean or rich problem?
will do . . . that can cause a lean or rich problem?
This weekend when I did my valve job and plugs, I noticed that my plugs were all white, and the plug for cyl 1 was a little brown, almost normal. It's a stock D16Y8 with an AEM CAI with almost 90K on the clock. Would changing the O2 take care of this? Would I have to change both of them? Is there any reason why I might be almost normal in cyl 1, and lean on all the rest?
Sorry to resurect a dead thread, figured I'd jump on the good info that was going on in here...
Sorry to resurect a dead thread, figured I'd jump on the good info that was going on in here...
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hifi_civic
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jun 10, 2005 06:24 AM



