eXcelonTypeR

Alright I had a CEL 7 and 41. I fixed both of them so no more CEL. My exhaust smells really rich (no cat ) and my idle is at about 500 once the car warms up. I had a z1 motor but swapped to z6 about 7 months ago. As far as i can tell all the vaccum lines are good. What could be causing the richness since there are no CEL's?? Could it be bad grounds sending the ECU crazy?? Tahnks for any help.

civictildeath

running rich is a honda thing my y8 almost exactly same (idles at 400 on a good day but usually 300 i got a 4 cylinder lub )

yet i cant remember what running rich is - too much air or too much fuel

eXcelonTypeR

Rich is too much fuel. My exhaust is really sweet smellin. but im new to z6's so if its a honda thing then i guess i wont worry about it

civictildeath

no light no probs

GdmLaz

my z6 doesn't run rich it runs pretty normal good mixture i only run rich when im on nitrous

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civictildeath &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no light no probs </TD></TR></TABLE>
you probably haven't been around Hondas much.

eXcelonTypeR

Me or him ^^???

Evs-One

look who I quoted, Einstein

You can have several problems without throwing a code....sending incorrect voltage signals, etc.

Unplug the IAC and see if idle drops

mikehawkBUiLT

im running rich too oh well

Equilibrium

What ECU are you running? P28? I suggest you try a retard on your ignition timing, and if that doesn't work, maybe you should advance it. Also, ensure you're getting good spark. If that doesn't help, maybe you need a new O2 sensor. Just a few suggestions.

Good Luck!

eXcelonTypeR

I have the right ECU, just replaced the O2 4-to-5 wire conversion did properly. I still have to clean my IAC but i will do that. The strange thing is when i mash on it to 7000 i throw a code and the car kinda lurches like it lost power or blew something (praying to car gods) but when i get home and turn the car off get a paper clip and jump it theres no CEL, and if i take the clip out still no CEL.

Timing is all right but if i try and retard it, it gets real thumpy and sounds like it wants to die and it's advanced all the way, a shop couldn't get the camshaft to 16 degrees, just 13. I bought motor off a friend and he didnt tell me if there was an aftermarket camshaft so I just know that I lost 3 degrees of advance from their inability to time it right. And new spark plugs and wires, distributor is still good but i don't see how that matters if its running rich since i weak spark usually causes a misfire or am i wrong there??

Equilibrium

Timing is critical! Your whole problem could be in those 3 degrees. If I'm not mistaken 3 degrees cam = 6 degrees crank. I'd seriously suggest you fix your timing before you move any further. I know my motor had a huge timing issue, and it wouldn't rev past 3k. I fixed that, and it runs like a CHAMP!

eXcelonTypeR

Well I have the distributor fully advanced and it revs to 7400 with out a problem so i dont think i'm suffering what you did. And I know timing critical but when i used a timing light on the marks they lined up as best i could tell so i don't think it's off timing anymore. But isn't with fuel injection a set amount of fuel is injected proportional to the amount of air that the MAP sensor picks up? I don't see how mechanical timing would affect a computer controlled action?

I think I fixed it thou, made some homemade ground wires out of 8gauge, and it seems to idle better and it's idling one notch closer to stoich then it did before the wires were put in.