i am almost dont building my engine, but i couldn't understand the arp instruction paper. i have a b18c1 long block. can someone clarify what to do, i hand tighten them, now what? how many pound so i torque it (80 or 75), i used the arp lubricant? and can anyone show me how to lub it, do i lube the top part where i install the nut too? damn arp should add pictures on there instructions.

 

come on someone has to know

 

good night bump

 

clean the studs and the holes on the block. use a high strength loctite (red) on the threads of the stud. run them down with ur hand til they bottom out and then turn them back half a turn. put ur head on. apply arp moly lube to the end of the stud. then to both sides of the washer (if this kit comes with them) and the bottom of the nut. u have about 25 minutes to get the nuts on and torqued before the loctite begins to harden. torque the head down using the honda head torque sequence. torque them to 75 ft/lb... or what ur paper says for the arp moly lube..... any questions let me know.

 

o ****, i put the moly lub on the bottom and top of the thread. is that bad? damn the engine is at the shop right now.

 

i first torque it to 25, 50, 75, then 80 pund. does that sound correct

 

yep thats fine... just follow the honda pattern.. if u dont know what in talking about ask..

 

anyoine else think i did it right? did i lube it right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si1999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clean the studs and the holes on the block. use a high strength loctite (red) on the threads of the stud. run them down with ur hand til they bottom out and then turn them back half a turn. put ur head on. apply arp moly lube to the end of the stud. then to both sides of the washer (if this kit comes with them) and the bottom of the nut. u have about 25 minutes to get the nuts on and torqued before the loctite begins to harden. torque the head down using the honda head torque sequence. torque them to 75 ft/lb... or what ur paper says for the arp moly lube..... any questions let me know.</TD></TR></TABLE>



the instructions that come with the car are basically universal directions. But yeah, to the original poster, your doing it right. Thats basically exactly how I did it. Still not problems 4 months later with it boosting over other day.

 

was the loctite necessary

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock93cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was the loctite necessary</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes.

 

I don't think loctite is absolutely necessary, I've never used it on the 4-5 sets of ARP studs I've installed and they have never had a problem holding. Just make sure you use the ARP lube and a good torque wrench when installing them.

 

the loctite is necessary to make sure they stay permently... and also to keep the studs from moving up and down or back and forth, which would wear away at the threads in the block.

 

um if i remember correctly, they are to be put in dry, with no tools, but now they have the hex in the top. if you loctite, what happens if you pop a headgasket and need to deck the block? i dont think they are designed to be loctited. you use the supplied molylube on the threads on the nut side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um if i remember correctly, they are to be put in dry, with no tools, but now they have the hex in the top. if you loctite, what happens if you pop a headgasket and need to deck the block? i dont think they are designed to be loctited. you use the supplied molylube on the threads on the nut side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i called ARP and they said loctite is NOT to be used on this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock93cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i called ARP and they said loctite is NOT to be used on this</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.. they only suggest it if the stud is going to be located in a water jacket like some domestic cars

 

got it