Ok, my first time installing arp head studs i used the infamous "hand tight" method for puttin the studs into the block and learned my leason by having 4-5 studs loosen up on me. This last time i tighted the studs down using a 7in allen wrench. before i put the head on i checked the studs and none of them would wiggle. i slap the head on and do the required torque sequence to the required torque specs and have the car running for no more then 20mins and the head is leaking. i check the torque specs and about 4 studs aren't to spec. The block is sleeved and built so i dont ever plan on taking the studs out, so should i just use some loctite to secure the studs into the block?

 

You should torque the studs to the block. Use allen wrench to 3/8 drive adapter and use your torque wrench.

 

NO, the tension in a stud is not from the threads...its the inner part of the stud. Do exactly what arp says to do. They will not back out. The tension is much stronger with a stud than a bolt because of where the tension is distributed. Handtight with arp assembly lube, torque in the honda sequence to what arp suggests...not anything over what they suggest. Try to go in at least 3-4 steps. I do 6 because Im a **** like that.

 

This is how I do it,

Torque the studs to 25, 45 and 65 ft/lb. Wait about 10 minutes to get all the air pockets out, and do final torque to 72 ft/lb.

I run mine a little tighter, I run about 40 psi to 50 psi

stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is how I do it,

Torque the studs to 25, 45 and 65 ft/lb. Wait about 10 minutes to get all the air pockets out, and do final torque to 72 ft/lb.

I run mine a little tighter, I run about 40 psi to 50 psi

stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do pretty much the same thing. Also, on my final torque, I go over the studs about 5 times at the final setting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is how I do it,

Torque the studs to 25, 45 and 65 ft/lb. Wait about 10 minutes to get all the air pockets out, and do final torque to 72 ft/lb.

I run mine a little tighter, I run about 40 psi to 50 psi

stan</TD></TR></TABLE> Is this torque spec is for a block w/ aftermarket sleeve? GE says torque them down to 82 lbs. i believe for turbo app. and 78 lbs. for N/A.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V-SPEC 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Is this torque spec is for a block w/ aftermarket sleeve? GE says torque them down to 82 lbs. i believe for turbo app. and 78 lbs. for N/A.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do my AEBS and GE headstuds like this BUT I torque them 1st 25 ft-lb then gho back and torque them again until on the first pull it clicks the torque wrench, then 50-52 then 81ft-lbs doing the same after each torque spec I go back over until when I first torque it it CLICKS at torque spec! Works great

 

well the first time i did exactly what arp said to do with the hand tight method and i DID torque them down with the 25/56/75 ft sequence and the stud got loose. the second time i went 25/56/75/80 and they still got loose. see it's not the actual nut that's getting loose but the stud that threads into the block.

 

I do 72 ft/lb with ARP moly lube

 

Said it before: when you're installing the studs wiggle them side-to-side and in circular motions. Air is getting trapped at the base of the stud and preventing it from threading down fully. Wiggling it helps evacuate the air, if you've used a buttload of moly lube the air still won't come out, though. I wish ARP put a teeny hole down the center of their studs so that this didn't happen heheh

 

i used the moly lube and the supplied washers also.. I dont even know if they make it but is there a not so lock loctite?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used the moly lube and the supplied washers also.. I dont even know if they make it but is there a not so lock loctite?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes there are different levels of Loctiote sir, they have a red, blue and I believe green all with different locking powers! At your local Auto Parts store sir, they should have them all