Hi, my 1987 CRX HF has 171k miles and she will be coming back to life!! I'm going to change my clutch starting today. The old one has nothing left! I have a lot of mechanical experience but have never done a clutch job. I've searched for hours but there is nearly zero on the internet about the 1st gen clutch change. I'm sure I'll have a question or two as I go so I hope some people can help out in the next few days.

How much different is the clutch change for a 1st gen 84-87 than for an 2nd gen 88-91?
I found this "guide" in this forum:

- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets
- 10mm & 17mm 12pt sockets
- 2" and 6" extensions
- 17mm wrench
- 2 jacks
- piece of wood to support the engine on
- 2 jack stands
- tranny fluid
- ball joint seperater
- flat head screw driver (make sure it's pretty sturdy)
- 2 cotter pins
- clutch kit (most clutch kits come with pressure plate, clutch, clutch alignment tool, and throw-out bearing)
- pilot bearing (for the flywheel)

If you have air tools, it'll take 4hrs for your first time... fastest I've ever done a clutch job by myself was 1hr 15mins.

1. open hood and disconnect and remove battery
2. remove intake up to the throttle body
3. remove battery tray
4. unbolt ground wire from tranny
5. disconnect clutch cable
6. disconnect starter wires
7. disconnect reverse switch
8. disconnect speedo cable (there's a clip on the cable that has to be removed)
9. unbolt the starter from tranny (two bolts)
10. jack the car up, secure on stands and drain tranny
11. remove tranny/engine thing (it's near the front mount, connects the tranny and engine).
12. remove wheels and unbolt shock forks from both sides
13. seperate passenger side ball joint
14. using screwdriver, pop driveaxles out of tranny
15. swing passenger side spindle from car
16. unbolt "traction" rod from LCA (two 17mm bolts)
17. place jack under engine, and place piece of wood on jack and jack up under the oil pan. use it as support.
18. unbolt front tranny mount and rear tranny mount
19. place 2nd jack under tranny
20. unbolt pass side tranny mount
21. begin removing bolts around the bellhousing that bolt to the engine
22. slowly lower tranny jack until tranny seperates from engine.
23. place screwdriver in open area and slowly lower jack supporting the engine. this should give you a handle to pry the tranny from the engine. if this doesn't work, shake the tranny while pulling to get it to pull from the engine...it shouldn't be too hard.
24. remvoe tranny from car.


I also got a rear main seal, inner and outer tie rod ends, all sway bar bushings, full CV axle shafts, and front wheel bearings.

 

ive not done a tranny swap in a first gen, but i imagine it to be pretty similar.

my first time, undoing the tie rods were the most difficult thing... old worn ones spin and nuts are difficult to loosen off.

buy a new flywheel, dont try to recondition an old one. new ones are cheap enough.

replacing the main seal is a good thought.

 

Thanks, I just started and now taking a break. I do have a new flywheel, so that's good. And a pilot bearing, clutch cover, release bearing, and alignment tool.

 

see attachment

 

1000 Thanks

 

Since I'm installing new cv axles, any tips on getting the axle nut off? It's a 32mm and I'm getting a 32mm socket tomorrow. I sprayed in some liquid wrench already. They seem like they're on really tight.

 

cheater bar (extension) and breaker bar.. you will break ratchets with the torque required. ive broken a few breaker bars too...

a Harbor freight jack handle works fine for me.

and DO NOT jump on it. not only is it dumb, its unsafe, AND its not effective.

you can lift with your legs far more weight than your own body mass, so pulling up is always going to provide more torque.

AND you have to lock the rotor by sticking a screwdriver in the rotor vanes and it locks up against the calipers. other ppl talk about locking it at the flywheel or putting ******* string in the #1 cylinder... unnecessary. screwdriver in rotor is all you need, doesnt damage anything.

i dont ever bother to unstake the nuts. they really dont do anything. just lift.

 

Didn't think of locking the assembly like that, thanks. You've been really helpful. Any tips on getting the inner tie rods off the steering rack? I hope I don't have to remove the rack.

 

if youre changing inner tie rods, its MUCH easier to remove the rack overall. there are lock washers that youll want full access to when removing and replacing and installing properly.

its not obvious, but it really is easier and more direct to remove the whole assembly.

plus youll really want to change out the Rack End Bushing at that time. it makes the car much better to drive.

• Ref #: 008
  

  Bush, Rack End

  
  Part Number: 53430-SA0-003

 

That's excellent info. So I'll do the tie rods and that bushing when I can spend more time on the steering rack and do it properly. Just an hour ago I got the transmission back onto the engine! Put some bolts in with the help of a friend. I thought I could do it alone but even with 2 people it was a bit of a tangle to get lined up. With an engine hoist or similar, it would have been easier!
Thanks for the invaluable help along the way. Hoping to finish it tomorrow.

 

Clutch is in! No chatter, no nothing. Shifts nicely, holds load. Just like I remember it. I hope it lasts a long time.
Thanks again for all the help given to me. After the clutch is worn in, I'll post the brand here an review it.

Those axle nuts weren't too bad once I got proper torque on them. I just shoved a baseball bat onto the brake pedal to keep the thing from spinning. And I had to connect the control arm to brace it.