if anyone can help me with a "how to" replace a transmission i would really appreciate it, i know it will bolt up fine, just need the basic steps of how to so i can save 400 bucks to bringing it to a [freak]ing shop.. ya know?? lol thanks

 

1) Get the front end of the car up on jackstands and take the two front wheels off.

2) Drain tranny fluid.

3) Pull both axles along with intermediate shaft. Most people like to do this by separating the knuckle from the LCA at the lower ball joint. My castle nuts were always a bitch to get off, so I've always just dropped the upper control arm to get axles out.

4) Disconnect and remove the starter. Disconnect VSS and back-up switch plugs. Unbolt clutch slave cylinder and move it out of the way, or undo the clutch cable and move it out of the way if it's a cable tranny.

5) Double check that there are no other misc items still attached to the tranny.

6) Unbolt shift linkage, punch out bitch pin. You can leave the shifter end attached to the chassis and let it hang, or unbolt it and drop the entire linkage/shifter out of the way.

7) Get a 2x4 or a piece of wood of some sort and place it on the lifting pad of your jack and support the block with the jack. Make sure the piece of wood is between your oil pan and the jack.

8) Start loosening the passenger side torque mount, upper tranny mount, and rear tranny bracket. You can also start loosening the boltsholding the bell housing of the tranny to the block, but leave them in place.

9) Once all the mounts are out, start removing the bolts holding the tranny to the block, and position another jack under the tranny.

10) Once all the bolts are out, have a friend stabilize the tranny as you use a gentle rocking motion to split it from the block. Once you have a bit of a gap between the tranny and block, you can use a pry bar to gently persuade it apart. Once it's apart, use the jack to support its weight and lower it out from under the car. If you have really strong friends, it's also possible to do this lying on your back under the tranny, but it's kinda heavy and not well-balanced, so use your best judgment.

11) Prep new tranny for install. Grease up the clutch fork pivot point. Grease up your new throwout bearing and put it on the input shaft. Install clutch fork and grease the slave cylinder pivot point.

12) Install new clutch/flywheel/pilot bearing if applicable.

13) Place new tranny on jack and raise it into place(or have a strong friend bench press it into place), while you or a friend checks the alignment and mates it to the block. This can be a tricky step, so it definitely helps to have a friend or two assisting you.

14) Reassemble everything in reverse order. Torque all fasteners to spec. Reconnect all accessories and plugs. Fill with ~3qt of Honda MTF, 10w30 motor oil, or your preferred MTF.

15) Have fun with your new tranny.

This is all off the top of my head, so please excuse me if I skipped anything important. Feel free to add to it or correct any mistakes I may have overlooked.

 

thanks man i'll get oright on it , umm and if u remember something that u missed out just let me know, thanks

 

alright i removed everything form the tranny, removed the starter, clutch slave cylinder and the only thing i need to do now is unbolt the axle bolt from the LCA, its a bitch cuz it was air tightened b4 and now its impossible to loosen, any ideas?

 

The easiest way I've found to get the axle nuts(I'm assuming you mean at the hub, not the LCA) off without air tools is to straighten the indentation on the nut(if it's there) with a punch. Then, with the tires resting on the ground, put your axle nut socket through the the hub/center bore of the wheel(hopefully you have wheels with an open center bore), and apply leverage with your breaker bar and some sort of extension . I usually use my floor jack handle and slip it over my breaker bar for extra leverage, but you can use any sort of pipe that's about 4-5' long that will slip over your breaker bar. The weight of the car along with the e-brake applied to the rear tires should keep the front tires from spinning, but you can chock the front tires if you need to. If the area around the nut/hub looks like it has a lot of rust built up, soak it in some WD-40 or penetrating fluid before trying to loosen it.

 

can give you some tips! i also have cable or hydro-b series; have ls, gsr, b16, type r trannies available & will install as well. if you know of anyone interested point them in my direction please! email as stated is bellanima1@yahoo.com. i'll give you contact number once you've replied by email or post.

 

get a good old breaker bar! thats what i used and it was a piece of cake dude!