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Yes you heard me 5 engines later still can't get it to start I feel I have checked everything and still no start. I have checked fuel air spark checked compression. Can somebody please tell me why when I take my fuel injectors out of my engine the car sounds like it almost wants to crank over but when they're installed I can't even get the car to sound like that this is my first time running into a problem like this I have no idea exactly what that could mean somebody please help me as soon as possible thank you
I have a D16 block y8 manifold y7 throttle body and a p2a head
Hi guys my name is nick I am a mechanic by heart and trade. Anyways Im self taught and well that being said I am in desperate need of some advice. I have my buddys civic at my house and originally it had a head gasket problem so we swapped engines we put the same one back in but a new working one and it wouldn't turnover. It cranks but still wont start i have tested everything i feel like starting from spark to air to fuel and still nothing. But finally i pulled out the fuel rail and injectors and tried to crank it and it came closer to starting then it has in a long time. That confused me a lil bit but on the side of that i tested for fuel and got it in every cylinder but 1 and 3. so i rolled up a piece of paper and stuck it in every spark plug hole and cranked it to c if it got wet. every cylinder but cylinder 1. Is this fuel pressure doing this to me. also my set up consists of p2a head a y7 block which i believe go together y7 TB y8 intake manifold y7 fuel rail and i been going back and fourth between p54 ecu and p28 also i have the original harness from car which was originally a z6. hopefully that helps please any help would so greatly appreciated thank you guys for ur time.
My first thought is the engine harness ground. You have so much wrong going on in your photo I don't know where to tell you to start... so what parts have you used that were ALL used with the five various engines that you have tried here ??? You claim to have fuel in most cylinders... this could be a wiring issue or a bad ECU, yet you have tried multiple ECU's, so the latter is unlikely. Spark... having it and having it at the proper time are two different things. Your plug wires were not installed in the photo so I cannot offer any insight to your plug wire orientation.
Removing the fuel rail and injectors and the car seemingly coming closer to cranking is coincidence... it isn't going to happen so I am not sure WHY you would even try such a step. It seems like you are frustrated and frantic... grasping at straws to find a solution. First, take a breath and relax.
Go back to basics: Check your mechanical timing: Timing belt orientation. Test with a known good distributor and ECU. Do you have a CEL ??? If so, what are your codes ??? FIX them first. Do you have the MAP and TPS plugs swapped ??? Is your spark plug wire order correct ??? What about your fuel feed line and fuel rail... what applications did they come from ???
That gives you a place to start... report back with answers.
Yes I mean wow that harness is a hacked up mess. Also it seems likely that some of the sensor plugs could be miswired or misplugged onto the wrong sensors.
Running compression tests with the distributor low voltage harness plugged in is likely to damage the coil. It may still make sparks but not strong enough to start.
Also check that the distributor shaft isn't 180 degrees off. TDC the cam then remove the cap and confirm the rotor points at wire 1.
Ok so it's an obd1 car with an obd2 motor what did you do to plug the distributor alternator and injectors in or is it a y7/8 harness with an obd1 adaptor of sorts on it. Because I think obd incompatibilitie is your problem here
That car really screams the "You touch it, you own it" doctrine-- if you try to work on someone elses hacked-up mess that has no chance of working right, they will turn and blame you when you can't get it to work.
But for the OP it is too late, and the owner is his friend anyway.