Hey my friend has a D16Y8 swapped EG hatch and it bogs and dies when you try to drive it. It barely did it, then he replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires and reset his timing now it dies right away when you try to drive it. What is something he did? Do you guys think it's a fuel pump?

 

Take the intake off of the throttle body and check that the plate is opening/closing properly, and situated right.

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the 2nd position?

 

He's bringing it to my house and I'll check those. How would it be possible that doing the fuel filter , plugs and wires and resetting timing could make the problem worse though?

 

Maybe he set the timing ever further wrong?

Check fuel pump flow by disconnecting the return hose that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the metal pipe on the firewall(*). Turn key on and don't start. You should get a decent stream. If it is only a dribble the filter is clogged or the pump is weak.

(*) Ignore the countless Youtube idiots who will tell you to loosen the hose at the fuel filter. That is not a good test. The best test of course is to use a gauge and see if the pressure drops a lot when you try to drive. That requires buying stuff though.

 

He brought the car over it idled at 100 and doesn't go up when you give it gas. The pump primed and the throttle body looked straight and it went fully open and fully closed. I'll check the line to see if fuels coming out. I'll also check the timing because he did it without a timing light. Anything else you guy think from the stuff I said?

 

This is all assuming of course that the check engine light is not on. Check the ECU for codes, make sure the CEL works.

 

CEL isn't on. He said it was still obd1. I'll check tomorrow. I can check the CELs by jumping the two pin connectors right?

Started the car again, it idled decent but bogged hardcore when I gave it gas.

 

Check mechanical timing.

Still waiting on fuel pressure results.

Make sure the ECU and harness are working right.

 

lol he did the timing with out a light? ok...

 

I pulled the line off and fuel came out in a good steady stream. I tried to jump the two prong connector but it's in a weird plastic cover so I can take the cover off to check tomorrow. The CEL comes on when I crank the key like it should and goes off regularly. I'm going to check timing tomorrow too. Anything else I should check?

 

im playing with the timing right now. I got code 22 too. Which is vtec pressure switch right? I have enough oil in the car.


Edit:

Car doesn't out so I dont have long enough to check timing.

 

reset the check engine light buy unplugging battery for a minute. Then reconnect and start car. You're saying it idles at 100 rpm? or did you mean 1000 rpm? I have a hard time believing the car idles at 100 rpms

 

I wouldn't even call it an idle the rpms read so low on the tach then it dies out. I'll reset the cel tomorrow.

 

Seems like we're having similar problems with our Y8. Keep in touch if you get any results.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...n-die-3305384/

 

Sounds like **** timing. Are the ignition wires in the correct order?

 

Wires are in correct order. I started it today and it idled at 1500 rpm cold and when I went to give it gas, instead of the rpm raising it went down and bogged. Then it warmed up and went to it's usually barely running low rpm.

Anyone experienced this?

 

Anyone got any ideas? Giving it gas gives it the opposite effect it should. Runs super rough and dies out. Once it dies out, it wouldn't start back up again.

 

TPS, out of sync and or not working? That is fairly easy to check...

 

I can just check it by seeing if the throttle plate opens fully and straight right? Could a major vacuum leak do this to?

 

Lol no, you need to check it by either measuring the voltage in and out of the tps at various throttle positions or by using a diagnostic tool.
A vacuum leak could cause a high and erratic idle, but I think you would still have power.
You could maybe have a leak at the MAP sensor, you should test that sensor as well.
Did you ever even check your mechanical and ignition timing?