Vehicle Specs.

D16Y8
VITERA 75MM PISTONS WITH CX RACING HBEAM RODS
ARP HEADSTUDS
STOCK HEAD
STOCK FUEL RAIL AND FPR
RC750CC 12OHM INJECTORS
EBAY TURBO KIT WITH .63 AR TURBO T/3/T/4
GODSPEED DOWNPIPE
2.5IN FULL EXHAUST
MSD BLASTER 2 COIL
GM 3 BAR MAP SENSOR

I have started and created a basemap in neptune using p30 eco type and p28 map. i have adjusted for my map sensor and for my injectors with the injector battery offset preset. I can get it to start up and idle decent but it is running pegged rich.base timing is set at 16*. I doubt it would be any help if i provide a screen shot of it but, where is a good starting point to get my idle sitting at 900 and my A/F where it should be.

Thank you in advance i am just stuck.

 

What type of fuel?

Are you running in open loop?

Have you let the car warm up to full temp and it's still pegged rich?

Couple of things. You are relying on injector dead time presets, rather than actual measurements from your injectors? At idle, being off even .2 ms can make it go from lean to rich.

If injectors are new, do they not provide flow and dead time sheets with them? If they are used, they need to be cleaned and flow tested, with dead times measured.

Also, it is a basemap. Many do run rich. Once you are sure your injector settings are correct, just tweak the fuel tables to get the right AFR in open loop.

 

Im running 93 octane. I have been running it in closed loop. Yes when fully warmed up it is still pegged rich. The injectors are brand new and they did provide a sheet. Wasn't for sure if i needed to use it or not since the presets were in the system.

 

Here's how I start. (gasoline)

Pick the P30 codebase and the maps closest to your motor. The P28 would be fine.

Go through all the basic setup questions, then look through all the parameters and adjust items to match your setup. Examples:

• Make sure the wideband is selected
• Make sure the TPS is calibrated in the software as well as within the normal factory ranges physically
• Make sure you select the map sensor you are using
• Move VTEC to an arbitrary high engagement point
• Make sure you have no error codes

Once you have all that set up, adjust the overall fuel multiplier until you can get it to start. Once it's running, adjust the overall fuel multiplier till it idles at 14.7. We want the AFR to remain steady at this time, thats the only goal. If the engine is rough, that's fine, as long as the AFR is fairly steady. If it's not, you will need to either adjust distributor timing, or overall fuel multiplier, or both, some more.

Once it is steady 14.7, use the ignition lock function of Neptune to lock the timing at 16 degrees. Use a timing light to adjust your distributor to hit 16 degrees. Unlock the timing when done adjusting dizzy.

Readjust fuel so that you are back at 14.7 AFR steady if it changed

Now go to the battery offsets table in software, and start calibrating them. You do this by turning on headlights, fans, dome lights, basically introducing load in order to cause the voltage to drop so you can adjust the fuel compensation. Attempting to roll up an already rolled up window will really help drop the voltage. I like to calibrate from 11v to 14.2v at the minimum. You should adjust the fuel compensation so that the AFR is as close to 14.7 as possible at all voltage points in the table between those values.

Once battery offsets are calibrated, bring the RPMs up to 2000 in neutral. Adjust fuel in the highlighted cells (make sure cell tracing is enabled in the settings) [which should be the first and/or second column at the given RPM] so that you get 14.7 AFR. Repeat this process in neutral for every 1000rpm up to 6000rpm. If you notice extreme backfiring, you will need to start making broad changes to timing.

Get the car on a level surface where you have room to drive without fear of interference. Start at low speed, second gear. Shoot for columns 2, 3, and 4 (vac aka load) under 3500rpm and adjust fueling so the AFR reads 14.7. Then go low speeds in third gear, and do the remainder of your primary tuning in third gear. Shoot for columns 4 through 0mbar under 3500rpm, however many columns you have. Try not to be in boost yet. Get it to read 14.7, tapering down to 14-13.5 AFR as you approach the 0mbar column.

At this point, if you made it this far, your timing is pretty close. If you didn't make it this far, you need to make broad changes in timing until you can achieve a semi smooth acceleration and a semi steady AFR.

Continue the process by using third gear at small increments in RPM. Tune the low cam to 2-3000rpm above where VTEC will be theoretically set. During this process, a timing curve should develop. Use your impression of how much different the timing curve is to guestimate your changes needed for VTEC. VTEC happens much faster, and has more potential for damage, so you have to get a little closer to start with.

Fix your vtec point to 500rpm lower than where you think it needs to engage. Tune the high cam with 3rd gear if possible.

Shoot for a smooth transition in power from non-vtec to vtec. Shoot for a smooth transition in power from RPM to RPM. It should not stutter, backfire, feel like it looses power in a spot, etc. If it does, the timing needs adjusted. Without a dyno, you can safely adjust timing to correct rough acceleration and reduce detonation. By no means should you attempt to tune ignition for maximum power without a dyno. You can get pretty close just by watching your AFR. If you make a change to the timing and you see the AFR lean in that same cell, you are making a more complete burn, in general.

You're lucky I was bored tonight, and I hope this helps you try to make your basemap more of a street tune. Basemaps shouldn't exist. If you can't street tune it, please flat bed it to your tuner so he can go through this process. Washing your rings out with excess gasoline, and detonation is not fun for a nice new build.

 

wow lol that was an awesome write up. thank you for all this.

 

Uhhhh. What he said.

 

Wow theYBLEGAL that was nice of you!

 

^^^ Yes, I saved it in my tuning document!
Now I just need to capture someone explaining how to reach Maximum Brake Torque (MBT)...

 

You are awesome.