Long story short, the fuel filter is blatantly in the way of my up pipes, no matter how much I move them around. Plus my lines are pretty nasty from the car being a rust-belt car, so I'm making the switch to -8an. My question is, can I get the feed and return -8an bungs welded on the stock pump hanger and have it work with my aeromtive 340.

 

So it can be done, my next question, what type of line do I use to go from the top of the pump to the -AN line, AN line or just submersible fuel line?

 

Check out my most recent thread posts where I did it with a walbro 450. I used a 6an bulkhead and adapted to 8an right there at the bulkhead, but it should be okay seeing how your outlet for the 450 is only 3/8". It is a 6 an line for only about 2"

 

And yes Gates makes submersible fuel line it ranges from about 15-20 dollars a foot but fortunately there you don't need much!

 

Thank you! That's axatly what I was looking for. Just 2 questions. The part I circled in green is a -6AN 90*(regular) going to a 6 -AN step up to -8AN(bulkhead-fitting), correct.

and they were just screwed in, not welded?

 

here's the fuel line and wiring upgrade i did to a stock hanger

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-r...build-3291744/

 

Thanks for the link, that helps a ton! 2 questions, the relay, one of the 2 stock wires goes to it i'm assuming. And the fittings that attach to the hanger, they're special "bulkhead fittings" that don't require welding?

thanks again.

 

yes the stock fuel pump power wire triggers the relay on, i have the ground for the relay going to the chassis with the fuel pump ground. i ended up running the fuel pump ground through the cord grip with the power wire. yes there bulkhead fittings with the white washer seals purchased from getfast1 off of ebay. they do not require welding.

 

Awesome, thanks man.

 

another option is using something like this if your fine with the small section from bulkhead to fuel pump being stock.

Russell 640923 Honda Banjo W/ #6 An Male Flare For Civics & Integras W/ Fuel | eBay

 

Did you guys just take a grinder disk to remove the stock nipples/raised threaded parts on the top of the hanger it's self? And for the fitting to fit, did you jut drill the old threads out(stock feed).

 

Bump?

 

yes just cut the factory hard line off the hanger, drill hole to correct size for bulkhead fittings and screw the lock nut on with the washers and your done. Its that easy!!!

 

Thanks, just wanted to confirm. As if I ruined it I'd have to go on eBay and buy a new hanger, I'd NEVER find one locally.

 

Last and final question. which of these is the signal wire. I can't find a diagram showing a pin out for the "EG"

 

My PDF reader is being a bit crappy right now so I'm not doing too well searching this myself, but here's a link to the Helms manual:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3V...ew?usp=sharing

Should have a diagram for the wiring in there under the fuel section.

 

Green/yellow is the signal. Yes I know historically black is ground, but there've been some cases where that's not true. My pdf reader doesn't allow keyword search as if you were to "view a source", thanks tho.

 

So I finally did it, but I have 1 possible issue? it doesn't want to build pressure, as my on-rail gauge says 20psi. There's a ton of litteral pressure as I had a loose fitting is it looked like a industrial sprinkler. I have a 180* fitting that plumbs it to the rail but I've seen other do this, also mounted the FPR on the end of the rail. FPR "should" be good but maybe it's bad? THERE ARE NOT LEAKS at all, I have a near new cement floor and it's completely dry save from the stain from the loose fitting.

Last question: ppl are giving me **** for using electrical tape? I swear that's what I've seen in other builds. I did lots and made it very tight.

 

I used expandable sleeving and heatshrink on my harness. Works pretty well and havent had any issues with it so far.

 

Bought a Weldon d2015a, no more hacked up hanger. Bumping cause no one has said weather or not I should being seeing pressure at the rail with y FPR attached right at the end of the rail.