I've pretty much pieced together my turbo kit and done (just about) everything I wanted to do to my car prior to finalizing the install and getting it tuned. Just want to get some opinions on anything that stands out as being bad.

1989 ED6 chassis
250~300 wHP goal
Stock B16A
ARP head studs
OEM head gasket
Garret T3/T4 .57 trim Turbo (2.5" 4-bolt exhaust housing)
GAW oil feed/return kit
Muetec log manifold
EG half rad
2.5" downpipe (4 bolt connecting flange) with flex pipe (8" section) custom
3" full exhaust (Thermal R&D)
generic intercooler (2.5" piping)
custom vented catch can
GM 3 bar map sensor
spark plugs (1 step cooler)
Tial 38mm wastegate
Greddy BOV
750cc RC injectors
255lp Walbro fuel pump
Boost, oil PSI, Wideband gauges
innovative traction bar (DP clearance)
P28 with Neptune RTP (OBD1 converted)

I'm going to pick up a CC stage 4 6puck clutch before I get it tuned. I'm running a 'stage 2' full face ACT clutch and I doubt it will hold. Probably going to install a MFactory LSD in the YS1 when I drop it to install the new clutch. So I'll be holding out a little while I save for that.

Be as harsh as you want, I'm open to anything. This was a very budget set up. Anything 'custom' just means I made it.

Car has no CEL. Just saving up to piece together the last few things and get it tuned.

 

those 750 injectors... are they hi or low impedance? gonna use a resistor box? you could use a smaller injector for that power goal.

the waste gate seems small... I would go for a 48mm. I don't really know how prevalent boost creep is in Honda applications but better safe than sorry.

stock head gasket? c'mon dude. commetic.... do it.

-chris

 

also what are the dim. of the generic intercooler?

 

I don't see a wide band gauge on that list : p

 

All kinds of wrong here

38Mm is fine

Head gasket: Oem is always best

 

Injectors are saturated. No injector resister box, I'll just remove it. I got these cheaper than I could get 440 DSM injectors, couldn't pass it up.

That's the first I've heard of that. It's not a huge turbo for my power goal so I wasn't expecting a ton of boost creep. My manifold isn't 48mm (44?) compatible.

Why a commetic HG? Any real reason?

28"x7.5"x2.5" or so. Just a guess.

 

It's there.
Boost, oil, wideband gauges.

I thought his information sounded strange, but I wasn't going to dismiss it.

I'm glad 38mm is fine.

This is sort of what I've always heard. The only reason I've heard to use aftermarket (thicker) is if you need piston to valve clearance due to decking or something.

 

it was just my opinion and I didn't claim to be an expert on Honda applications, I guess I gave bad info on the WG sorry. cometic because I understood its a better gasket. im sure oem is a good gasket too and the life of a gasket depends on how you treat the engine.

good deal on the injectors. room to grow.

I came from the rx7 camp so most of my turbo knowledge is there and not here, I guess creep is not that much of an issue with Hondas in that power range. it was not uncommon to get creep in rx7's with minimal mods even, of course rotary engines are more fragile and sensitive to detonation so I guess my mind is still trying to factor in for engine life's sake.

I don't mind bein wrong in here (although I feel sheepish when I say something wrong) cause I know someone can correct me. I like to learn. im extra appreciative of the guys here cause they aren't a bunch of ****** if youre wrong about something like some other Honda forums.

again my bad on the misinfo and this long winded reply.

-chris

 

at least you can admit when you are wrong . most people cant do that lol. my car is around 500whp and im an oem headgasket, no problems with it yet. im also on a 44mm gate and have no issues with it either.

 

38mm gate is fine IMO. Just make sure it's real tial and not a replica or knockoff.

I ran 38mm tial on my 2jz with a gt37 for a long time without creep.

750cc injectors are good too.

That way you'll be able to run e85 for more power / extra margin of safety if you need it.

If you can mod your downpipe to 3" then you'll see gains from that as well.

You might not even need a new clutch - I doubt you'll be over 200ftlb by much.

But a decent LSD is a must have!

 

If I'm dropping the trans and $700, I might as well spend $350 and get the clutch in there. That was my thoughts at least.

No worries stupidhard. I don't want to say I know much about hondas or turbos, but I've tried to read up at least a LITTLE bit. (EDIT) Still sounded like a dick. What you said didn't match what I had read previously, so I was suspicious. I know what you mean when you say you are from a different background. I have been an air cooled rotary VW guy for a long time.

Black R, the DP will probably stay how it is for a couple reasons.
1- The turbo has a 2.5" flange.
2- A 2.5-3" adapter (straight off the turbo) won't fit without hitting the fan (call it clearance)
3- I already welded up the downpipe, flex tubing and adapter to the 3" down underneath with the O2 sensor. (call this laziness and cheaponess)

I've thought about welding a 3" Vband to the exhaust housing but read mixed reviews. Turbulence or something. I'm not pushing the limits of the downpipe so I'm gonna deal with the slightly slower spool and be a bum. I have thought about upgrading it though and I really wanted to. I actually made the downpipe because I thought I was going with a 2.5" exhaust.

 

lol all good.

I had done some research looking at kits and I seemed to recall a lot of them coming with 44mm gates or at least the option to upgrade from a 38mm.

good luch with your project sir... im itching to begin mine... at least the engine build and turbo portion. working through the suspension this year and hopefully next year I can procure a good swap.

-chris