em1_civicsi

B16a on 8 pounds

This is the Kit Im building:

-Blox log manifold
-Garret t3/t4 Turbo
-2.5inch downpipe into 2.5 inch exhaust
-Tial 38mm wastegate
-2.5 inch Intercooler piping/intercooler
-Tial bov
-Oil Line/Fitting/all hardware for install
-Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
-Injectors 550cc
-Golden eagle vacuum manifold
-Colder spark plugs
-Dyno tune
-Air/fuel guage
-Boost gauge
-Oil pressure gauge
-AEM wideband
-New exedy oem replacement clutch with 7 pound flywheel
-ARP head studs
-HKS Universal VBC Manual Boost Controller




Now heres my questions:

What am I missing from the kit to go boost?
What else would you suggest me running?
Also can I use stock srt4?
Can I run 400cc or what do I need?
Do I need adjustable camgears?
Do I need a fuel rail/fuel pressure regulator?
Do I need to run a wideband/02 sensor and WHY?
IS THERE ANYTHING IM MISSING THAT I NEED? lol
Do I need a better clutch then exedy oem?


Thanks everybody and IM SEARCHING this stuff btw I just wanted to have this so people can help me a little more

Ls_dx

iTrader: (5)

redlinetuning

What am I missing from the kit to go boost?
What else would you suggest me running?
Do I need adjustable camgears?
Do I need to run a wideband/02 sensor?
IS THERE ANYTHING IM MISSING THAT I NEED? lol

What are you HP goals? What EMS are you going to use? AEM, Crome, Hondata, etc?

Do I need a fuel rail/fuel pressure regulator?
What size injectors? also can I use stock srt4?

you are upgrading fuel pump and not fuel rail, fpr, or injectors? Why?

550cc injectors would do if you're only running 8lbs. You may want a manual boost controller in the future.

dephtone

Well first off what are you looking for powerwise? This will help determine how big injectors you will need. Also make sure when you buy your parts you leave yourself some room to up the boost.

My recommendations:
New clutch and flywheel to with stand the increased power n torque.

ARP headstuds.

GSR/ITR Cams for added umph.

Most people run DSM 450's if you are on a budget for injectors. I'd recommend 550cc +

Your stock fuel rail and Fuel pressure regulator will be fine till up ~500-600 whp IIRC

I feel that a wideband is necessary, but I am completely **** about monitoring my car to ensure its reliability.

I would also recommend you either run a 2.5" Downpipe or a full 3" exhaust, you are bottlenecking your exhaust which will result in a loss of power.

em1_civicsi

Head studs Ill look into those sounds good
I dont want to buy oem cams
like 6c 600cc should be fine or can I go less? also srt?
so i really do need a wideband like aem? or ?
what clutch should I run? its a DD

em1_civicsi

Power I want low 13's and if I break 12's ill be happy
I DD my car so I dont need nothing to crazy

and I was thinking chrome or neptune or hondata I was going to have locash racing tune my car in arizona i was going to see what he suggested

I know I have to up grade fuel pump/injectors but wasnt sure about the fuelrail/fpr and I dont know the size of injectors to run.
so 550s would be fine?

Power I want low 13's and if I break 12's ill be happy
I DD my car so I dont need nothing to crazy

I dont wanna run dsm because of the resister box I rather not have to wire in a resister box but 550cc is good for 8 pounds?

then yeah ill run a 2.5 down dipe then because right now I have 2.5 straight pipe on my car

so a aem wideband be good?
and I dont need a fuelrail/fpr?
ill add arp headstuds to my list

em1_civicsi

Updated my Turbo kit/Questions

redlinetuning

It's a good idea to upgrade the FPR and rail, you'll have less bottlenecks. I don't remember if it's low or high impedence for saturated injectors, but you won't want peak/hold if you're not running the resistor box. Yes, 550 should be fine. Just be sure to keep an eye on the injector duty cycles when tuning. wideband is fine, but if you're not intending to do your own datalogging, you won't need it.

clutch, depending on your hp/torque goals, you'll want to buy the appropriate clutch pressure plate. Flywheel, stock will be fine.

What are the specs for SRT4 injectors?

em1_civicsi

Yeah I dont want a resistor box I was told bad stuff about running dsm
which type of injectors do I need?
Also can I run SRT4?

so I dont need a wideband?
Im going to have a air/fuel/boost/oil pressure gauges
to make sure my car is working correctly

redlinetuning

dude you're confusing me with your "SRT4" questions. I don't know anyone who is running those in Hondas. Just get RC, Injector Clinic, or Bosch.. there many others.

What "bad" stuff have you heard about running DSM injectors? They're fine actually.

maybe you should research on what each item is and what its purpose is? Seems like you're asking random questions and going off on rumors rather than facts about parts. It does you no good to have guages but not understand what the readouts mean.

em1_civicsi

The whole srt4 thing is I find ALOT of srt4 injectors forsale for a reasonable price and there flow is good and isnt honda stock psi for fuel 43 or 48?




well my buddy ran dsm and they messed up alot or it was him lol
plus I rather run high impedance injectors so its more of a plug and play thing.


as for gauges I was told
air/fuel so I know if im running lean/rich etc.
boost so i know if it creeps up to high or to low
and oil pressure well oil lol

redlinetuning

I know nothing about the SRT4 injectors so i'll leave that out. I wouldn't rule it out, but to play safe, get something else. RC injectors can be had for cheap as well.

you buddy probably wired them incorrectly, bad injector, i don't know. If done right, they're fine.

oil pressue guage will help you if you have oil pressure drops, keep your turbo and engine from starving of oil, and, help you monitor your oil pump's performance, maybe an oil leak, etc. There's more to it than what you think.

em1_civicsi

yeah, in the area I live I hardly see rc for sale but alot of srt4 roll around and upgrade so there stock parts are always forsale.

and as for my buddy yes that could be true

and thanks about the oil gauge info

Ls_dx

iTrader: (5)

You dont want to "buy OEM cams"? ... umm ok.. well thats the easiest and cheapest HP you can add to your setup.. but hey what do we know

redlinetuning

oh.. you won't need an "air/fuel ratio gauge" if you're getting an AEM wideband. just a thought.

You'll lose some rotational momentum with that 7lb flywheel too.

stock cams and gears will be fine for what you're running.

em1_civicsi

I really didnt want to switch cams or anything like that. more of a
buy all my turbo stuff bolt it on get towed to get tuned and drive home

I rather boost my b16a stock. Im only looking to get into low 13's on 8 pounds in my em1 If I dont hit low 13's or If I feel the need to go faster
Ill buy ctr or stage 2 blox cams with valvetrain upgrade.

em1_civicsi

Thank you for all your info,
so should I run a stock resurface flywheel or a little heavier one?

Ls_dx

iTrader: (5)

Sweet. pics of Em1...

Ls_dx

iTrader: (5)

I always have ran a stock re surfaced honda flywheel.

em1_civicsi

sorry no can do, I dont like posting pictures of it not yet still needs a few things
cool Ill prob do that it saves me a little money lol

em1_civicsi

update

-Blox log manifold
-Garret t3/t4 Turbo
-2.5inch downpipe into 2.5 inch exhaust
-Tial 38mm wastegate
-2.5 inch Intercooler piping/intercooler
-Tial bov
-Oil Line/Fitting/all hardware for install
-Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
-Injectors rc 550cc
-Golden eagle vacuum manifold
-ngk spark plugs
-street tune
-ARP head studs


boosting 8 pounds street tune on crome

car feels fast yet sluggish

redlinetuning

feeling fast is all relative. fast to you may be different for someone else. Sluggish? get on the dyno for a real tune.

em1_civicsi

when in boost/vtec it feels like im going up hill

so sluggish car is fast but feels like im driving up hill when im not