Ok so I've been searching for awhile on a few things regarding turboing a d16 and I cant seem to figure it out. I have a few questions that hopefully other people who've done this can chime in and let me know. Here's my set up so far,

d16y7/y8, y8 tranny,arp headstuds, stage 1 clutch...nothing special
Turbo kit, tdo5h 16g from an evo, ram horn, bov,oil feed, intercooler...etc
550cc injectors, walboro 255, boost controller, boost gauge

Now for the questions...

1. My goal for this is just a basic stock set up shooting for 200-210 whp (reliable), Do I need a fuel pressure regulator? If so what are a good option? Blox has a cheap one that bolts onto the stock one making it adjustable, will that work?

2. Wideband, thinking about getting an aem one suggestions?

3. I plan on just getting it tuned on chrome (due to lack of funds lol) will that be reliable and fine with just this set up? Where do I get the chip for the ecu? (p28)

Thats all I can think of right now, any other suggestions or advice is welcome, I'm fairly new to all this so any help would be great. Thanks

 

Chrome is fine if an experienced tuner is tuning. My turbo z6 made just over 200whp and was daily driven, and ran great forever tuned on chrome. And I went with an innovate lc-1 wideband and I love it. $140 brand new. Just some info.

 

www.d-series.org will provide you with everything you need.

 

Why in the actual **** are you referring a member here to a different forum, when we have everything OP needs and then some?

You seem to have a good handle on what you want. AEM widebands aren't bad, and the Innovative unit mentioned already would also be a good pick. If your ECU isn't already, you'll need to have it socketed. You can do it yourself, but if you aren't extremely comfortable soldering PCBs and electronics, I would have it done professionally. Note, I specified PCB's - being able to solder two wires together is completely different than soldering electronics, and one errant blob of solder can do a LOT of damage. Xenocron does good work - give them all call. They can also make you a basemap, which will let you drive to a tuner.

As for the tune, don't let yourself get too caught up in the price of it. For a budget build, the tune should easily be the most expensive part. Get the names of some reputable tuners in your area, make some calls, see what those tuners are comfortable using for budget builds, and shell out the coin to get it done right. The tune is what keeps your motor from eating itself alive and putting you out a lot of money. Spend a little bit now, or spend a LOT later.

 

1. its a great resource
2. specific to D series
3. because i can

 

Ive checked on d series.org but i really just wanted more people oppinions who mightve boosted say a b16 or b18 or whatever, most of the info shoud be relativaly the same aside from how much power each engine can handle. Thanks for the info tho everybody. another thing tho, a few people suggested that I buy a 3 or 4 bar map sensor, is this going to be needed? Ive read up that the stock one can only read up to 11 psi is that right? And has anyone ever got a chip from pherable? Would they be able to make me a good basemap tune so I can drive to a dyno if I gave them all my engine and turbo specs?

 

I've never heard anything bad about Phearable, but I'm personally a fan of Xenocron. You shouldn't need a new MAP sensor for a 200BHP goal.

 

The td05hr-16g6c EVO3-9 turbo is a goofy twin scroll turbine flange. your typical ramhorn won't even begin to fit the turbo. a few companies offer divided ramhorns with the EVO twin scroll turbine inlet flange for b series motors for around 750, no reason they couldn't put a d flange on it.
if you have the 9.8 turbine housing you need to get the 10.5 to replace it. you'll thank me for that little piece of info.
also the turbo is a reverse rotation unit so you need to keep clearances in mind as it won't sit like your typical Garrett on the manifold. also you'll have to fabricate your own downpipe/wastegate elbow using a flange from some EVO company like MAPerformance

nothing about running that turbo will be "off the shelf"

 

well, since map sensors dont read in BHP. if you need to produce anything higher than 11.x psi to make your desired target HP, you will need a new MAP sensor.

otherwise, if you can meet your goal under 11.7psi or whatever it is, then stick with the stock sensor.

and honestly, any decent tuner should give you a basemap to drive to their dyno. no need to waste $50 on one.

 

i have this turbo on my car. i paid $650 for a local guy to make my manifold, DP and dump tube. well worth it.

 

Yup she's all done, it was on a buddies car and I bought it from him, don't rly know him that well so didn't get a chance to see his whole set up but that's why I had the few questions I just wanna make sure I got everything I need for it to run safely, I don't wanna get to the dyno (about a 2 hr drive away) and him say ohh you def should of bought this. Just wanna be prepared

 

I still have my EVO 8 16g in the basement. came off of a rally America EVO and has a 34mm inlet restrictor compressor housing. I'm going to put a billet replacement wheel in it, put it on one of my cars and see how much torque I can make.

the restrictor limits power to about 300hp but causes a huge torque increase. EVOs with a 34mm restrictor turbo are making over 400lbft of torque.