I have a 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback with a 1.6 liter v-tech. The other day I was driving to work in the rain (there were deep puddles on the road). Suddenly, my check engine light came on and I lost power, not completely, it just bogged out. The check engine light shut off and I got power back. I made it to work and after I left work, my check engine light turned back on and I lost power again. Since then, it will start up first thing in the morning, it drives but there is no power. It won't go above 2,500 rpm. It eventually dies and won't start again until the next day. I don't have the plastic motor cover on the bottom of the car. Is there something that could have gotten water in it? My friend tested the distributor and it's fine, but my other friend said it isn't getting adequate spark. My catalytic converter went out and was plugged up, and I thought that might be the issue. I can't afford another one for a couple more weeks so I hallowed it out. That didn't do it. Any ideas?

 

First thing would be to find out what code was trip before going on a wild goose chase.

 

The thing is, I tried jumping the obd 1 connector. Which should cause the check engine light to blink a code, right? It stayed solid.

 

Here is the step by step:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

 

The CEL will only show a code if it's on. The next time your CEL comes on, do not turn the car off. Pull off to the side of the road where you can safely sit, and jump the 2 pin plug.

 

I'm assuming the deep puddle also jarred the car?

Does it happen when you take off or during shifting?

I still use a trick an old mechanic showed me and pull the plug wires 1 at a time while the car is run to see if there is any change to the idle. NOTE: If done wrong it can be on hell of a shocking exp.

It sounds like a TPS problem to me. Don't think the water had anything to do with it if the puddle was deep and slammed ur car.

Also a Solid light should mean no code tripped... so i'm confused on that one

 

I thought they in the ecu for a couple cycles... thats good to know if its not the case

 

Not for all ECUs, especially OBD-I ECUs

Very bad idea. That's a fast way to blow a coil or wash a cylinder.

 

So, it talks about the 7.5 amp backup fuse resetting the CEL, but I found that fuse blown when I was working on the car. With tbe CEL on. When i replaced it, the stereo deck would stay on when the car was off. Before, the deck didn't have any constant power to it and would lose all memory when i would shut the car off, and i know for a fact that the deck was wired correctly from the deck end. I'm starting to think this may be a wiring issue.

 

LMAO I didnt say drive down the road like that. You only pull them for a few sec and if that damages the car it needed to be fixed anyway cause it was on its was out

 

Me too...

 

Even just pulling it with the car running can blow the coil. It doesn't even have to be on it's way out - if it doesn't ground out correctly, it can pop. The correct way to check spark is with a DEI plug tester. They're stupidly cheap, under $15 at your local parts store. Disconnect the fuel pump fuse, pull one wire, insert the tester where the plug would be on the wire, ground it, and crank the car. Spark should be bright white. It's that simple, and doing it the correct way has no risk of damaging anything.

If your stereo is turning on with that fuse installed, your stereo is wired incorrectly.

 

Throttle Position Sensor here's a write up on changing one.



https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/1993-accord-dx-tps-removal-2822004/

 

Except it might not be the TPS. It could be any number of things. OP needs to pull that code first.

 

Yeah, i know. I don't know motors very well, but i do know stereos. But, i don't know car wiring, and if the stereo is wired where something for the car should be, I'm not really sure how to fix that. I guess i gotta find someone who is good at automotive electrics.

 

Well thx for the heads up but I've done it that way for 25 year and never blown a coil. When ur on the side of the road.... just rolled into work or pulled in the nearest drive chances r u dont have a DEI. Not to mention 15 dollar tools add up quick

 

BTW thx for this... It good to know since my Del sol is OBD I

 

Could it be a problem with the ECU?

 

Seriously doubt it. You have diagnostic steps to follow - go ahead and follow them. Pull the code(s), check your spark color, and while you're at it, go ahead and do a compression test.

 

There would be problems if he had a cold air intake. A buddy of mine had a cold air intake and went over a puddle. Few minutes later, he heard a rod knock and there was a hole on the block.

 

That's called hydrolock. OP's problem is nowhere near hydrolock.

 

Hey NotARacist, what is a DEI tester? The sources I found for Hondas said we needed HEI plug testers (High Energy Ignition). So that's what I ended up purchasing for myself and used to test my Hondas with.

I've never heard of DEI... Wondering what it stands for and what the differences are?

 

Same thing. This is the one I use. It says HEI on the plug itself, but the packaging said DEI. I don't know what the acronym stands for, but it is what it is

 

Okay kewl, was concerned I had been led astray. Glad to know my 25 bucks and two week wait wasn't wasted. Not priviledged to have resident Autozones here in Canada.

The new style is all enclosed in a clear plastic globe. Makes it impossible to get zapped or arc outside of the tester. Looks like this: