Won't start when hot...no power...
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Riverhead, New York, USA
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Won't start when hot...no power...
My fuel injected 94 Civic DX began to hard-start in a manner consistent with, what used to be, condensation in the distributor cap. Now it won't start after the engine is warm, although it turns over normally. After starting while cold, the starter does not seem to disengage, and there is very little power until about 3k rpm. Sometimes it stalls when idling, or beginnning to accelerate, and then it won't restart. Cold starting grew progressively worse, and when the distributor cap was removed to be dried out (seasonal maintenance ) I was surprised to find that my home brew cap seal had held and it was dry as a bone, and there was very little aluminum oxide floating around the internal components. An onboard diagnostic was run with my paper clip, the Check Engine light came on, stayed solid, while the SRS light blinked. While the SRS light signal isn't in the self diagnostic trouble code list, I'm guessing that this means the SRS is good. All the screws in the distributor were rusted, and even the rotor screw stripped before it could be removed, so I swapped the distributor out, and still no changes. Adjusting the timing towards the firewall gives me more power, and worse idle, and away less power and better idle. When the alternator is moved completely away from the firewall the engine eventually won't do more than idle, no matter what the gas pedal position. The connectors, plugs and fuse box relays were clean, and without signs of corrosion. I'm in the process of installing Uberdata on my Laptop, to try and run a full OBD1 diagnostic. Fuel filter replaced, timing checked. Is the status of both coolant sensors reported in the Self Diagnostic Code routine, or only one? Ideas?
#5
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Re: (fasthatchb18c1)
<FONT SIZE="4"><FONT COLOR="red">HOW TO:</FONT> <FONT COLOR="blue"> Fix your honda main relay.</FONT></FONT>
<FONT COLOR="green">-------------------------------------------------------</FONT>
Ok
Ever wander why your car won't start when it's hot outside, or maybe even after you take it out for a drive and come back and she won't turn on. It will do nothing but crank and turnover.
If you'll notice IF your problem is the main relay your fuel pump won't prime on.
This is because of a faulty PGM-FI main relay. With the car being a 92-95 civic..with your car being around 10-12 years old the soldier joints on the relay have dried out and have bad connection and cause your main relay to not let your fuel pump prime on.
A new main relay at honda is around $58.00 - $60.00
But why pay 60.00 when you can fix it for less then $5.00?
<FONT COLOR="red">Tools needed:</FONT>
soldering gun
40/40 soldier
knowledge on how to use a soldier gun
Refer to these websites for detailed pictures and help:
<FONT COLOR="green">-----------------------------------</FONT>
http://autorepair.about.com/cs...1.htm
<FONT COLOR="green">-------------------------------------------------------</FONT>
Ok
Ever wander why your car won't start when it's hot outside, or maybe even after you take it out for a drive and come back and she won't turn on. It will do nothing but crank and turnover.
If you'll notice IF your problem is the main relay your fuel pump won't prime on.
This is because of a faulty PGM-FI main relay. With the car being a 92-95 civic..with your car being around 10-12 years old the soldier joints on the relay have dried out and have bad connection and cause your main relay to not let your fuel pump prime on.
A new main relay at honda is around $58.00 - $60.00
But why pay 60.00 when you can fix it for less then $5.00?
<FONT COLOR="red">Tools needed:</FONT>
soldering gun
40/40 soldier
knowledge on how to use a soldier gun
Refer to these websites for detailed pictures and help:
<FONT COLOR="green">-----------------------------------</FONT>
http://autorepair.about.com/cs...1.htm
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