Hello, I need some help. I have a 1996 Honda Civic ex (automatic) D16y8 VTEC engine. Today I had a mechanic replace distributor with a new one (not rebuilt) from an auto parts store. The mechanic did not set ignition timing after replacing. (I also have new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, oil and transmission change).

When I went to pick up the car I test drove it. The car looses power when driving. It also shifts at high rpms. When I started the car it misfired a little. Also, a check engine light came on for a knock sensor code.

The mechanic replaced the knock sensor and I drove it again. The check engine light came back on for the knock sensor, car is still loosing power, it still misfired at least once and is still shifting at high speeds.

When I brought this to his attention he said it may be ignition timing. Now, I don't know much about cars but when researching on the web I've read it's mandatory to set ignition timing when replacing distributor.

Could the unset ignigtion timing be causing the knock sensor code as well as these other symptoms? Please help. Thanks

 

if the timing is too far off it can cause actual knock, tripping the knock sensor.

 

yeah thats a timing knock the knock sensor is detecting and throwing the code for...might be too advanced unless he has it set opposite from where its suppose to be

 

Should I now have a mechanic set the base timing. I ask because someone said this is the type needed.

 

Should I have a mechanic set base timing?

 

If it were me I'd find another mechanic that knows alittle more than this guy, have it towed to where you are going to have it done and send him the bill. Thats like taking your car to have tires put on and them giving it back to you with no air in them or lug nuts on the rims

 

Did the "mechanic" do: new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, oil and transmission change?

Check a few things. Which spark plugs did he use? Where they the ones on the sticker under your hood? Did you have OEM wires? If so, why did he change them? What oil did he put in? Also, what transmission fluid did he use? If he did not use Honda transmission fluid, your going to need to flush it out, and put Honda in.

 

yes.

 

Update: I had a mechanic (a family friend who's a toyotamedic) set base timing and erase knock sensor code. Car has its power back but when driven the cel for knock sensor pops back up. It drives fine until cel pops on. Feels as if car is holding back. I dont have a knock. Mechanic told me he would switch it out for me if I wanted. I'm holding off only because funds are a little tight and I don't want to spend money for a new knock sensor if it won't fix the problem. The reason being is, prior to timing being set I did purchase a new knock sensor and code still went off so I had original mechanic remove and put old one back in since it didn't fix the problem the first time. I know timing was off the first time but I'm hesitant. I don't know what to do. All I know is cel for knock sensor code never happened prior to original mechanic replacing distributor.

Does any one have any suggestions? All are welcomed. Thanks

 

What is the exact code being thrown?

 

I did the new fuel filter,spark plugs and wires. I used anti-seize on spark thread as well. I used the ones from the sticker under the hood. I don't believe they were oem wires. I was doing a basic tune up. I didn't get a chance to do oil and transmission fluid change myself because after doing tune up car wouldn't start. I did tune up correct following all safety precautions such as but not limited to removing neg battery cable, etc...however, car didn't start.

The mechanic did the tranny and oil change after he got it started but with the fluids I bought (5w-30 not synthetic and Castro trannny fluid for honda).

 

P0325

 

I've noticed that every time I turn the car off and then turn it back on the cel is off. However, when I drive it and the car reaches 3000-3500 rpms it pops back on and then car becomes somewhat sluggish. It doesn't always happen when I reach 3000-3500 rpms the first time but it will definitely pop on once I hit 3000-3500 rpms the second time if it didn't do it the first time. I hope this makes sense. Anyone familiar with this happening? Thanks

 

So you're throwing the circuit malfunction code. If a new knock sensor still throws the code (assuming it was properly installed), you might have a wiring problem. A knock sensor code will also make the car retard timing to prevent detonation from cracking a sleeve, or snapping a rod.

If your mechanic has a factory service manual (and he damn sure better), he should have followed the procedure for testing the circuit. I'll see if I can find it as well.

 

In OP, you stated you had distributor replaced with one from auto parts store. Why? Was something wrong with original dist.? Have you tried putting original dist. back into motor and seeing if problem goes away? I'm assuming original dist. is an OEM Honda.

 

Update?

 

Limp mode? I had the same issue and it was a wiring issue..

 

The knocking caused by the ignition timing being set incorrectly might cause engine knock but would not throw a knock sensor (KS) code.

So true.

OP --> Never again bring your car to this mechanic.
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P0325 can indicate a bad KS, a short or open in the KS wire, or a bad ECU. Start by testing the wire as you have already replaced the KS.

I edited your thread title. In the future, please create thread titles that summarize the technical problem.