Today the wastegate bolts were totally loose, the downpipe bolts were loose, The turbo to manifold bolts are loose! ( I think only one) and it looks like it ripped apart the gasket on the side it became loose, and where the exhaust leak is.

Pretty much, what the hell do I do to keep these bolts in? I can use loctite on the wastegate, and the downpipe to turbo, but I don't want to use it on the bolts for the turbo to manifold, because I know I'll have to remove the turbo/downpipe to remove my oil pan for example (its impossible to install the DP when the turbo is mounted already.) Also, I think it says loctite is only good for 300 degree F, which I don't think is suitable for the wastegate, and downpipe to turbo. Thoughts?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1kJHkQrrnM

just a lil 3rd gear pull. Currently on 7psi. I have a 10lb spring, but the tuner recommended not to run 10lbs without arp head studs, so I followed suit. I have arp head bolts that I am going to install this weekend. What should I do while the head is off? Can I do anything that will benefit me without ripping the block apart? I will be using an OEM head gasket.

 

I use copper anti-seize to get the bolts extra tight and to ensure they come out smoothly. Haven't had any problems yet.

 

On the old two bolt Wastegates, we used either safety wire, or tack-welded them on there. that's why i'm glad the MVS took over, and why I don't recommend cast manifolds that still use that 2 bolt setup

 

I have the 38mm 2 bolt style.. I used the black coated allen bolts with lock washers. works fine for me..

As far as the manifold.. I also had issues with my 1st cast mani bolts backing out. You can either use studs or use large allen head bolts with lock washers. I didnt use the cheap hardware that came with it.

Bottom line is replace it all with quality bolts and lock washers.

 

Home hardware nut bolt an washer here with blue thread lock tightened up realllll tight. You could double nut the ends and see if that helps