Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

I'm really tempted to use these for my manifold, turbo and downpipe. They're supposed to be stronger than grade 8. I'd use nickel anti-seize, as well as Nord-lock washers in the areas that need it to keep them torqued, in addition to safety wire on the 4 turbo to manifold bolts. Does this sound like a bad idea? Has anyone else here used these?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Sounds good actually. Better than most that in kits and such.. Go for it.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I dont think using the lock washers on an aluminum head will last long.,

doug118

The lock washers would never touch aluminum?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I personally run ARP accessory studs for my exhaust studs, they never come lose or break. Other than that just plain old grade 8's with some lock washers on WG and turbo to mani.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

with the lock washers it will pull the aluminum threads out of the aluminum,head. Ya dig lol

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

If you have a ramhorn manifold, you won't be able to get anything but an OEM stud length and flange nut behind the runner.

Top mounts are probably also affected on the bottoms instead of the top since the runners turn down first.

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, Mac!

Thanks for the heads up. I have an Inline Pro manifold, though. The ARP studs for the exhaust manifold are 38mm, and I believe stock is 37mm. You can get them longer, but I don't see the point.

I don't understand what you're getting at. You're saying that using lock washers between the nut and manifold will pull aluminum threads out of the head?

This is why I'm a bit concerned. (Taken from http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt...rbo-bolts.html)

"I wanted to share my experience using ARP turbo bolts, some problems I encountered, and what I learned. Here goes:

I bought a set of stainless steel ARP turbo bolts to install my FP3052 a while ago. I had installed the bolts as recommended by ARP using their moly lube. These bolts were through the factory cast manifold. After a few months the bolts had worked themselves loose- after noticing an exhaust leak I removed the factory heatshield to find them all finger tight. I relubed them, and torqued them down again assuming I must have undertorqued them the first time. A few months later they had worked themselves loose again. I tightened them down snug so I could drive the car home, and bought a drillpress; I figured the best thing to do was to safety wire them. The next morning, upon removal of the bolts, three were completely seized and broke off in the turbine housing. I was very upset as I now had to remove the turbo, and carefully repair three holes. Additionally, I was out a $35 set of bolts.

After drilling out the holes, and retapping them, I thought to myself: what was the cause of the problem, and how should I fix it. To address the issue of the bolts seizing I realized ARP moly lube was not rated to handle temperatures nearly high enough to be used on turbo bolts. I also realized that using SS bolts in an SS turbine housing was a BAD idea. I was now left with a turbo with two retapped holes (and one that would require a helicoil), and needed a new set of bolts. I figured that even if I took the above precautions, the risk of bolt failure in the future was still real. I decided the best thing to do was to use longer bolts with nuts on the other side. This way if I ever did have a hardware failure in the future that I could simply replace the fasteners and not have to remove the turbo again.

I contacted ARP via e-mail, and attached pictures of the damage. I got a quick response, and was told to call. The guy I talked to at ARP was very helpful and knowledgable. He confirmed my theories on the galling of the bolts. I asked him if he could get me longer bolts made out of chrome moly instead of stainless. He said he could send me what I needed and I am now waiting on my package. In the meantime I went out and bought some nickel based anti-seize. It is available online, and you can get it for just over $20 shipped for half a pound. Nickel anti-seize is rated between 2400-2600 degrees fahrenheit, depending on the brand. Once I get the new hardware, I will reinstall the turbo, and most likely safety wire the nuts on.

In conclusion, I learned a few things:
-Do NOT use stainless hardware to secure a stainless turbine housing; ARP recommended a differential of 10 on the 'hardness scale' (which I am not entirely sure that is just yet). I would recommend either factory bolts, are ARP's chrome moly bolts.
-Buy nickel antiseize for using on ANY hardware on or near the turbo. The $20 will definately be worth it if it prevents you from having to drill out even one bolt. Anything else will not likely withstand the heat.
-ARP has great customer service, and stand behind their product. I am very happy that ARP was willing to help me with an alternative solution to my problem, rather than just offering to replace the bolts."