98 DX no power
98 civic DX auto not getting any power to anything, horn, lights ect. The battery shows over13 volts and has been re tightened and is fine and the starter is getting the juice. Now, there are little plastic pieces on the floor like it would be for a clutch switch but it’s an automatic. I have a GSR and this is my son’s car so I’m at a loss here. Something is killing the whole car.

These are the pieces that were on the floor.

These are the pieces that were on the floor.
Clean and tighten the battery ground wire that goes from the negative post to the engine bay frame. If the wire looks heavily corroded or damaged, replace it. Also check the big 80A fuse under the hood.
The broken stopper may be for the brake light switch above the brake pedal (or the switch for cruise control if you have it).
The broken stopper may be for the brake light switch above the brake pedal (or the switch for cruise control if you have it).
Right, the only thing I could think of was the break light switch but he said he hasn't noticed his lights staying on even at night. I checked the battery ground out at both ends and it's fine. I see there is another ground that is going to the trans, like I have on my GSR and it felt very tight. The fuse sounds interesting. Will the big 80A fuse under the hood kill the whole system, horn ect? I imagine I would have to check it for continuity because it's a closed unit right?. I'm at my house now and it's getting dark here and he lives a little bit away so I'll have to continue tomorrow after work again. Thanks!
Add- Would that 80A fuse be the ELD in the under hood fuse box?
Add again- OK I see it on a diagram, it the power distribution #41 I take it. I'll check it tomorrow thanks.
Add- Would that 80A fuse be the ELD in the under hood fuse box?
Add again- OK I see it on a diagram, it the power distribution #41 I take it. I'll check it tomorrow thanks.
Last edited by hondalike; Jul 20, 2010 at 04:17 PM. Reason: add text
80A hood fuse 41 does not protect the horn or hazard lights but does almost everything else. Also check the 40A hood fuses.
Disconnect the negative battery connector and use a multimeter to measure resistance between the disconnected connector and body ground. There should be very little resistance.
Another possibility is a bad hood fuse box.
Disconnect the negative battery connector and use a multimeter to measure resistance between the disconnected connector and body ground. There should be very little resistance.
Another possibility is a bad hood fuse box.
I just called my son and said I would come and check for continuity in it. I will check it the way you described too. But you don't think it would affect the horn, lights ect? That's what's happening. I'm headed over there and will have to get back in a bit. Thanks.
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OK I checked for continuity and it's good so it should be ok, nevertheless I agree that it wouldn't effect all systems. I guess I'll have to take it from here. Thanks for all of your images and expertise. Have a great night.
Update: I guess I was working too fast yesterday and had my meter set on DCma instead of just DC hence a false reading. The real reading is 0.01V. Brake light switch fixed and new battery (it needed it) and it's a done deal. I guess the least surprising thing is that it was butt simple due to operator error.
Thanks for the company and setting up those shots.
Thanks for the company and setting up those shots.
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