it's a d16 idk if that matters, but i need help on where to drill the hole and tap in the fitting, like i
know at the top in the deep end right? if i'm wrong please correct me, also would i need to weld the
fitting or will some thread tape and a torq wrench be sufficient for a seal?

 

Pic attached of one location. I would weld it because the oil pan is not that thick.

 

general rule of thumb:

put it as high as you can. dont block any of the bolt holes for the oil pan.

weld it if you want it to last for ever. JB weld it if you want to be cheap.

if its an aluminum pan you can usually drill and tap.

use 5/8ths if you can. but 1/2 in should do fine.

dont let the drain line kink.

drain line should always be sloping and should NEVER have any uphill points.

 

Its going to depend on what manifold and placement of turbo. The best thing to do is mock up the manifold and turbo onto the block see where the center of the turbo middle section is. you want the drain to be a straight shot with minimal bending if any at all to ensure a good flowing gravity bleed system.

as for the fittings. you can tap a pan. you have to either weld on a bung or you can take another route. This is something i came up and with and works very well. I take a -10an turbo fitting from function7 racing pictured below and drill the three holes into the pan and then bolt the fitting to the pan with a gasket and some high temp copper rtv to ensure a proper seal. its works great and will not leak. Also be sure to use some locktite on the threds of the bolts so they do not lossen up from vibration. its a simple at home solution to welding unless you have one or access to one then your best bet is to weld the bung.

fyi ive tried the screw on type or fittings and they have always leaked or loosend up thats why i went with this setup and ive never had a single issue. I also use this piece on the back lower part of my pan for oil temp sensor and it works like a charm. I have access to a welder i just like how simple and easy these things work. to me simplicity is key

you can get brass fittings cheap to go from 1/2 pipe to -10an or you can get an fittings but the brass ones are cheap at home depot. Sorry i dont have a pic of it installed ill try to get one up

 

Thanks guys!!
-so 3/4" is too much?
also is there a certain length i shouldn't exceed?

 

were its at in that pickture is fine' oly thing i would do it change that fitting setup ' but liek the hmt setup nifty

 

3/4 is great. the bigger the better.

length doesnt matter, as long as the drain always slopes downwards. gravity is the only thing draining the oil from the turbo, so give it all the help you can!

 

Here's my LS pan for reference. I wish i had gone a little bit higher on the pan.
Aeroquip -10AN weld in fitting,like $4.95 from summit i think.

horrible picture.

I just need to re-pain it.

 

I just installed my -10 return line yesterday of my d16 and it turned out better than i thought.
But instead of welding in a fitting, i just got a compression fitting from a fab catalogue that was -10, had a nice black aluminum look, and only required a 11/16ths hole to be drilled.
I did have to grind away a bit of the inner oil baffle to ensure a good flat contact surface.

 

I put my oil return line at a little angle and high up on the oil pan. I put it so it would have a consistant downward slope...but not too much of a angle just a tiny bit.

Like Turbo-ls said, Mock it up and see where the best placement is and mark it.

 

thanks guys! i'll put up pics once i start doin stuff, it's snowin here
right now lol so no workin on the car :/

 

Get a garage :-)

 

I got that same fitting at a local hardware store called fluid connectors for $1.48.

 

Depending on washers used and which way the bolt goes, it's a good idea to use buna-N washers. I use silicone (permatex grey) around all 3 holes, nuts & lock washers inside the pan (or all-metal lock nuts), and flange-head or wide button-head screws with buna-N rubber washers under them.

If you don't use washers and just put silicone under the bolt's head, it will usually leak. Almost unnoticable, but a leak is a leak. Also make sure the bolts are only long enough to touch all the nuts' threads.


What I've done to save money and make a better drain is to weld a NPT fitting onto a steel plate. I angle it up, flatten the mating surface. Steel hex caps are best because of the wall thickness, ease of welding the hex, and material (vs cast iron/cast steel). I simply cut the closed end off at an angle.

 

oh boy do i wish i had one...my buddy has a barn turned garage with a million torpedo
heaters and a lift! i could live in there!

 

I'm doing this to a Ford and the pans alloy can the above method be used? ? I dont wish to weld as tig welding is expensive

The blocks already got casting provisions iit's Just a matter of drilling out and fitting that attachment as its in that shape ad well

Or would i be better to buy a 2nd hand factory turbo sump for $60usd?

 

You have to try it to find out. This is a Honda forum, and metal content of the pan can change methodology and parts used.

 

Ya true true

Jbweld maybe with sealant? ?

Ahh reason i asked here is the simple fact is i have so much respect for you guys and also you guys actually know you're stuff and have the knowledge also how to do it cheap n properly lol

Are k series sumps alloy?

 

No.. No JBweld.

I'm trying to understand the relevancy of your second question.

 

holy **** thread from the deep web, and i replied as it were new..... thanks barraea, jackass, don't bump old threads, make a new one if you need help (search first though)

 

Don't be an a**hole. They clearly had a question regarding something from this thread so it wouldn't make sense to start a new one.

Poster had a legitimate question, not just a useless comment. Skip over the thread if it bothers you that much but IMO you're the jackass for commenting that, not Barraea

 

That's is a t3/t4 drain flange. It can be use on anything you can drill through and put bolts and nuts. Use a gasket and rev thin coat on the gasket and also red loctite on the nuts

 

Cheers for that

Ya i thought i did the right thing yay

Cool about this being so simple I'll just use a n/a sump and use this so called t3 drain so simple

Also Its good here as people don't sell workshops etc they actually give diy advice