I raced my friends 96(I think) Turbo Talon last night and beat him, but damn I love that freaking sound. He has a blitz BOV and a huge FMIC. Even when his girl friend drives it normally you can still hear that damn BOV from 1/4 mile away. Every time I hear that crap I just want to go steal that car.

I was really interested in doing that custom turbo setup with the Mitsubishi turbo, and the hf manifold so I made an adapter. I have yet to tap the screws but that's not the problem. My primary concern with the custom turbo setup is all the "small" things such as:

1) running oil line
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge. With 3 things hooked up to the back of the oil pressure sending unit cause a problem?
2) timing
Would an MSD BTM and FPR be sufficient to properly control fuel and spark?
3) Charge pipes
I have a shop here locally that does exhaust work. Would there 3' exhaust piping be okay for charge pipes and a custom down pipe?
4) Starion Intercooler......... Ahhhh i want one bad.. someone hook me up...

any ideas? suggestions? a greddy sohc basic kit is 1600$ on importparts.. When income taxes come back , im either going that route or the custom turbo route. What do you guys think?

 

congrats... u are like me...... last night i picked up a 87 Starion TC05 turbo for my turbo setup..
yes i have seen people taking oil feeding lines off the block, and from the oil pan.,....
depending on the amount of boost u want, u might want to upgrade ur car more..... for exampl.. i want 5 psi..... a MSD ignition and FPR, and retarding my timing, i can run the 5 psi and be safe... also its better to pick a Zdyne Gold ecu to do a good job with the tunning!

 

there are many many links you can use to help you with this setup, personally if i were you id do the custom setup to, try some of these links for procedures and parts lists:

http://www.homemadeturbo.com
http://www.thedropshop.tv/vafc.htm
http://www.turbocrx.net
http://thenew.gamesbbs.com/~turbosi/
http://coolazz.tripod.com/turbo.html <~ for an integra setup, but still good info

 

$1,000.

I know its worth it. But I dont have that kindof money. I currently have the Gude head work (ecu, head, header, cam, tb im, etc) and rods/pistons. i want a nice reliable turbo setup though. not some crap that leaks oil. I know that there are alot of links. Ive been in and out of them, and I basically know what needs to be done, but ultimatly I just wanted peoples opinions who have done the install. At one point, I had a starion IC, and a 2nd gen turbo,, hf manifold, adapter. I was just lacking charge pipes, down pipe, and timing/fuel management.

It just seems like theres soo much crap to get. Im sure it will be well worth it though. i wish I had another starion intercooler now though.. anyone know a good place to get one.. hmm.. im off to the parts trader..

 

i got the hf mani..id u need it..
im me if u want it!

 

How much are you asking for the HF mani?

 

I have a couple of those manifolds. I was actually going to sell one of them. im not really sure what they go for though. Although I do appreciate the offer.

 

you can get HF manifolds at junkyards for 10-15 bucks

 

1) Here's what you'd need:
BSP to -4AN adapter
-4AN fitting
Hose
-4AN fitting
-4AN tee
-4AN to BSP fitting (for your oem sender)
-4AN fitting
Hose
-4AN fitting
-4AN tee
-4AN to NPT fitting (for your oil pressure gauge)
-4AN fitting
Hose
-4AN fitting
-4AN to whatever it is that goes into your turbo
Don't forget to use teflon tape on all the threads. :D

2) No. If you're going to run stock injectors, you'll need a 12:1 FMU. What the 12:1 means is that for every lb. of boost, it'll bump your fuel pressure 12 PSI. So, let's say you want to run 7 PSI, that's (stock pressure of 45 PSI + 84 PSI 129 PSI fuel pressure that you'll need. Your OEM in tank won't cut it. An ITR in tank won't cut it. A Mustang in tank won't cut it. Basically, any in tank you find won't cut it. You'll need an inline pump. I suggest Bosch. Soo... FMU, inline, and MSD BTM and you should be golden. And with the BTM- don't be a squid and leave it at 0. I run mine at between 1.75 and 2.

3) Charge pipes should be kept small to reduce lag. The exducer of a TDO4H is somewhere around 40mm ID. Your charge pipes shouldn't be any bigger than this. Also, something to keep in mind when routing your piping... every 90° bend will give you a 1% loss. IE- two 45° bends will equal 1% loss. The way I ran my charge pipes was pretty dam clever, if I do say so, myself. My compressor is on the passenger side with the exducer pointing down. From there, my pipe makes a 90° bend and feeds into the bottom end tank of a custom Saab 900 IC that sits in front of the right front wheel (super stealth- like) with the core positioned vertically. From there, it exits the top of the IC going straight up the hole where most people run their CAIs, makes a 60° bend towards the TB, and then a 30° bend for the final run down the throat of the TB. Short, simple, effective, and low loss. The down pipe shouldn't be more than 10% larger than the turbine outlet to ensure proper velocities. Yes, 3" down pipes work, but they're using bigger turbos than a TDO4H...

4) http://www.ebay.com


[Modified by F=WT, 10:58 PM 8/26/2002]

 

F=WT,

Thanks for your very detailed response! I saved everything you said into a text document because I was unaware of most of the information that you provided such as power loss per angle bend on charge pipes and also FMU ratios. Due to cash flow, This project will be nice and slow. Now that you have my attention, do you have any pics of your setup that you can provide? Someone said they had a sohc greddy turbo manifold and down pipe for 300. No turbo, but also with a black box. Would you suggest purchasing those products and going the greddy route? IF so then could you explain why>? Or do you think that the mitsu turbo route is best? thanks so much for the detailed reply and I promise it will go to use! (just hope you don't live near me )

 

That's the great thing about junk yard turbos... pay as you can afford it. Kinda like rent to own.

I do not. Digicam is busted.

No. With the black box, you still need a BTM and (I think) an FMU, and the manifold and dp wouldn't cost much to fab up- $15 for the HF manifold, ~$40 for the adapter plate, ~$50 for the downpipe. Now, if it were $300 for the whole Greedy kit, then I'd say yeah, go for it.

Well, that TDO4H would bolt up to the Greedy stuff because that's the turbo they offer with the kit, but still... make your own. It'll give you that much more satisfaction at the end of the day. As for actual turbos, the TDO4H is a nice tiny turbo. I'm running an IHI RHB5 VJ14 (even smaller than the TDO4H) which came off a Mazda 323 (also came on 626 GTs and Probe GTs). On my D16Z6, I get full boost (7 PSI) by 2200 RPM and it doesn't run out of breath at the top. The TDO4H will be the same way, but won't give full boost 'till 3400 or so. A side note- don't get too wrapped up in pressure ratios (how many PSI the turbo puts out)... look at CFM numbers too. I forget the CFM #s of my IHI, but I do know that if you were to compare HP output of identical engines using my IHI and, say... a T66, both running 7 PSI, the T66 would make CRAZY power becasue it can move a larger volume of air more efficiently. The correct turbo depends on what you want out of it. If you want a laggy drag queen that will give you monster HP, a bigger turbo would be good, but would nessecitate a built engine, Hondata, and alot more money than I think you're willing to spend. From what it sounds like, you want a decent low lag, low boost, cheap setup. For this, I'd stick with a smaller turbo- TDO4H 14G, IHI RHB5 series, or T3 from a Saab or Volvo (not a 60 trim). If you run under 9 PSI, you shouldn't have a problem with just an FMU, inline, BTM, and stock injectors if you use an intercooler.

Oh yes... Something I forgot- Something I don't think any Honda owners know about, but it's big in the Volvo circles is using something called the Saab APC. Basically, it's a stand alone knock sensor that reduces boost when it hears knock; basically, it's an active boost controller. You can get the whole APC system from a junk yard for like, $50. Read more about it here: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6776/apc.html And just some info about it that I don't think they give is this- it will not bleed boost below your stock wastegate setting. So, if you're getting knock at 5 PSI, and your WG is set at 5 PSI, the APC won't help at all. I'm going to be running the APC in a few weeks and plan on adding a turn buckle to the WG actuator arm so I can adjust it down to like 2 PSI so if I get knock, it can cut the boost way back.


[Modified by F=WT, 1:48 AM 8/27/2002]