Driver side lower engine mount bolts spin in place...
I do believe whatever welds the bolts go into snapped. I soaked them for days with PB blaster knowing this could happen, but they still snapped 
The bolt that goes through the mount seems to have a nut on the end (19mm), but it's not budging either, this bolt isn't reverse threaded, is it? I noticed it's threaded on both ends from the HELM manual...
Any suggestions from more experienced people with this problem?

The bolt that goes through the mount seems to have a nut on the end (19mm), but it's not budging either, this bolt isn't reverse threaded, is it? I noticed it's threaded on both ends from the HELM manual...
Any suggestions from more experienced people with this problem?
do you have a pry bar? You just got give it a lil boost is all. Sometimes they are a pain in the ( . ) to get out. Or you can try my method and use your foot and legs
The thing is, the nut on the end of that bolt is VERY shallow, I tried fitting a breaker bar to it, and it has ALOT of play. If I use a breaker bar, it's going to strip the nut, I know it.
Heres a pic of the mount for those who don't know:
Heres a pic of the mount for those who don't know:
the nut that goes to the mount is a pain.. you need a big breaker bar or an air impact gun.. the two that go into the framerail sometimes break the nuts that are welded in there.. if you want to take them out you have to cut a hole enough to get your finger or a wrench in there to hold the nut. some people say they got a long prybar under the head of the 14mm bolt and pried down to create pressure.. ive never had luck that way.
Yeah I've spent two days with an impact gun on that end bolt, it just doesn't want to budge.
I was afraid someone would say "cut a hole", I'm just not equipped for that.
I was afraid someone would say "cut a hole", I'm just not equipped for that.
I'd rather just cut the mount off than cut a hole in that beam. I'm putting a stronger engine in and don't want the frame to deteriorate because of some cheap-*** tig welds Honda did, so no holes. I'll jus snip the rubber out if I can't get this end nut off.
Looks like wheel hop until I get a replacement drilled in.
Looks like wheel hop until I get a replacement drilled in.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just undo the 14mm blots that connect it to the frame rail? No offense, but this isn't rocket science...it's a nut or a couple bolts...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are the bolts that are spinning in place. The nuts that hold those bolts are tig welded to the frame on the inside, and you can't get to them unless you cut the frame open, and that's what I'm trying to avoid because that area is a major stress point in the frame. Those tig weld snapped, and now both just spin in place. Nothing on a Honda is rocket science, duh.
Those are the bolts that are spinning in place. The nuts that hold those bolts are tig welded to the frame on the inside, and you can't get to them unless you cut the frame open, and that's what I'm trying to avoid because that area is a major stress point in the frame. Those tig weld snapped, and now both just spin in place. Nothing on a Honda is rocket science, duh.
tighten those 14mm back up and leave that mount in there.. youll need it for another swap if you want ac...
just take that 19mm nut off.. long breaker bar.. its got lock tite on it
just take that 19mm nut off.. long breaker bar.. its got lock tite on it
I agree, and if your putting a more serious motor in the future simply slam some ES vibration mount bushings in there before putting back together.
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