Swansen

This is just a solution i found. I looked around and the common remedy that people seemed to do was cut a hole in the side of the frame. Also notice someone mentioned taking the front bumper off, which doesn't expose the interior of the frame.

My solution was to cut the bolts off from the bottom, and then drill a hole in the top of the frame and run a long bolt through to the mount on the bottom. I used a 6" (or 150mm) bolt, but 5.5" would have worked fine, or even 5.25, i have a lot of extra thread.

the holes on the top don't even have to be lined up perfectly, for it to work.

just thought i'd pass this along

Bently_Coop

Do you have any pictures of this?

Swansen

do not, was working outside and just finished up the trans side when i posted this, so its dark. was working under fluorescent light. also getting really cold... Pro tip, motorcycle or snowmobile helmets make amazing safety glasses and double as head warmers.

planning on finishing up the other side tomorrow, i'll take pictures during the daylight hours.

92ehatch

I cut a hole in the frame and used a 17mm wrench on the nut inside the frame

Former User

^^^

tony_2018

Hell yeah! Everybody see's my point in providing pictures...

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

lower torque mount broken bolt - D-series.org


troll much?

tony_2018

Its not a troll, he's just sharing his experience with a rusted on bolt.

Swansen

well, here are the pictures, hopefully they are clear, i made some annotations in hopes they'd detail some things. work was rough, to worn out to get to drivers side tonight, hope to tackle it tomorrow.

the bolts would be under the air cleaner, but its not installed in this picture.

You know why they call them trolls? or 'trolling'?? because in stories they sit under bridges or wherever and throw out bait for passer-byes only to eat them/hurt them/take from then. Hence, the word 'troll'. some person finds pleasure in others discomfort and throws out some bait in the hopes a war starts... honestly, i'd really appreciate if a mod would delete this part here and the above post just to keep this thread clean.

i'm just trying to help people from cutting up their cars like typical searches for this issue results.

tony_2018

Thats what I meant.....

But you should've posted pictures anyways, its not easy understanding anything read without images.

Swansen

posted pictures, initially it was just to dark. but yeah man, i knew what you were saying, in my previous post i was agreeing with you, talking along side you not really at you.

Swansen

alright, both sides are finished but i ran into a complexity, shown in the picture. the frame compresses when tightening the bolts together in that area, so a brace is required. Also i used like a 1.75" wide plate, or around there, the picture isn't to scale. but the picture just shows the top side, the bottom side needs plates also. Alternatively, giiaanntt washers would work also.(minus the bottom side because there is a that bump stop in the middle of the mount on the underside of the frame rail. however, instead of the reinforcement plates being horizontal, they could run the same direction of the frame, from bolt to bolt, and use that thick center bit for the reinforcement, that should work also.

also, on the drivers side, the bolt that will go closest to the firewall, so the rear bolt for the torque mount. On the upper side of the frame rail, it will end up right near the bolt for the upper engine mount, the metal is thick/strong right there so it doesn't need a brace, however, there is a U-channel in the frame beneath that rear bolt. so drilling from the bottom side first is a really good idea to get the holes to line up nice.

However, all that being said, this is probably a better idea
a nut thread on enough to have enough room to still bolt on the mount with a compressible gasket/washer on the top of the frame rail.

||{}()-------------------@()+++++@++

KEY ~ || = bolt head ~ ------ = bolt shaft ~ @ = nut ~ + = bolt threads ~ {} = compressible washer ~ () = frame rail

alternatively, on the other thread, the idea of using a sleeve spacer was suggested, in between the frame rails.

but thats it.

Fresh2Envy

Just went through this issue on my 99 Civic.End up cutting lil window on the side of frame to get a new bolt in and wrench not to big.Then drilled a hole up to big enough to get a 5.25 bolt in.Ive been searching for a bolt long enough to do so.Been to 3 hardware stores so far all I can find is a 5 inch bolt.Few more hardware spots to check hope I find one.Gonna do the passenger side next it’s soaking in Wd40 now to try to avoid this past issue of spinning nuts.

Fresh2Envy

We’re did you find bolts long enough to fit.Like u said 5.25 up to 6 would work.What store sells bolts that long all I can find is 5 inch and that’s too short.Thanks!