master kill switch revisited
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i just spent the last hour and a half reading all of the various posts regarding master kill switches and i actually think i'm now more confused than ever.
from looking at my car (94 dx coupe), it seems that there are two inputs into the underhood fusebox: one from the alt and one from the batt. right now i only have a two post kill switch and i was wondering if i could cut both of those + cables to the underhood fusebox and run them to the SAME post on the switch. obviously i would then use the other post for the returns to the fusebox. i've tried disconnecting both of those cables while the car is running and it kills power. is this a safe way to do this? thanks!
from looking at my car (94 dx coupe), it seems that there are two inputs into the underhood fusebox: one from the alt and one from the batt. right now i only have a two post kill switch and i was wondering if i could cut both of those + cables to the underhood fusebox and run them to the SAME post on the switch. obviously i would then use the other post for the returns to the fusebox. i've tried disconnecting both of those cables while the car is running and it kills power. is this a safe way to do this? thanks!
I tried using a two post and realized that it wouldn't work the way I wanted to wire it. I put a ford starter solendoid in series with the alternator and a hot off the fuse box to open and close the solenoid. The only problem was that the solenoid wasn't rated for constant use. After a few electrical problem someone yells accross the garage at nashville that my car was smoking. The solenoid let the smoke out, and man was there a lot of it...
Buy a longacre 4 terminal and follow the instructions. I'd have to look to see exactly how I wired mine now.
Buy a longacre 4 terminal and follow the instructions. I'd have to look to see exactly how I wired mine now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phoenix_ITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was wondering if i could cut both of those + cables to the underhood fusebox and run them to the SAME post on the switch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
NO. You should not do this. Your alternator will still be hot after you turn off the kill switch.
Instead, buy a 4 post kill switch. Cut the battery (only!) with one, and cut the ignition wire with the 2nd one. This will disconnect the battery and stop the engine.
-Chris
NO. You should not do this. Your alternator will still be hot after you turn off the kill switch.
Instead, buy a 4 post kill switch. Cut the battery (only!) with one, and cut the ignition wire with the 2nd one. This will disconnect the battery and stop the engine.
-Chris
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phoenix_ITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about starter wiring? can i simply wire the starter directly to the batt as it is stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Take Battery + to the switch, then from the switch to the OEM Batt+ terminal.
No. Take Battery + to the switch, then from the switch to the OEM Batt+ terminal.
There are a few ways to do this, but here's how I diagramed it.
http://www.goaheadtakethewheel....html
http://www.goaheadtakethewheel....html
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that diagram helps a lot -- it appears you have the pos bat cable coming from the switch, going through a distribution block, then continuing on to both the fusebox and the starter.
thanks for your help everyone!
thanks for your help everyone!
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this is the one i have. i gotta look at how i have it tho. i cant remember.
edit:after looking at the diagram on dave's site, mine is done like that. the switch dumps to ground via the resistor to chassis ground.
Modified by Lo-Buck EF at 2:37 PM 4/18/2008
edit:after looking at the diagram on dave's site, mine is done like that. the switch dumps to ground via the resistor to chassis ground.
Modified by Lo-Buck EF at 2:37 PM 4/18/2008
I just bought a Longacre 4-post switch (2 large terminals and 2 small terminals) but am still confused on how to wire it correctly on my Integra (Even after going through a few threads).
From the battery there is one cable going from the + terminal to the starter and another cable going from the + terminal to the underhood fusebox. Should both of these be switched or just one?
granracing - The link to your diagram isn't working anymore. Would you mind reposting it?
From the battery there is one cable going from the + terminal to the starter and another cable going from the + terminal to the underhood fusebox. Should both of these be switched or just one?
granracing - The link to your diagram isn't working anymore. Would you mind reposting it?
I bought a 6 pole kill switch from Pegasus and wired it up exactly as shown in the instructions (main switch cuts +12V, normally closed cuts ignition, normally open grounds alt output to ground through the provided resistor), and it's worked perfectly ever since I installed it.
No problem Jeff. The link is for the diagram; on the bottom of the page there's a "Click Here for Next Page" link which discusses more information on the subject. One thing I haven't put on it yet is the differences in kill switches themselves. I previously bought a plastic version like the one shown in the picture earlier in this post and about every year or two had to replace it. I then switched to a metal version of the kill switch which holds up much better.
http://www.goaheadtakethewheel....html
http://www.goaheadtakethewheel....html
I used a 2 pole Flaming river switch and wired it like this:

It works well.
I leave the front breaker closed for daily driving and open for situations that may require a kill switch.

It works well.
I leave the front breaker closed for daily driving and open for situations that may require a kill switch.
Thanks Dave! That diagram is exactly what I was looking for. So now I just need to buy a distribution block/connector to split the wire coming off the switch into the starter and fuse box.
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