What kill switch is everyone running? I was looking at the flaming river big switch and lever kit? Is this the correct switch to get? Or is the combination battery and alternator kill switch the right one?

 

im using the maz kill chad. so far so good.....either switch and batt in the back, or switch up front w/ cable.

 

the only problem with mounting just the switch out back is voltage drop, and increased weight for the wire. i prefer the maz switch because it is lighter than 30+- feet of 0 or 2 ga wire. i tried it last year with 4ga, and the elec system was all screwey. plus you need a fuse front to back, bla bla bla.

 

I had the same question cause my battery is in the trunk now. what switch should I get and how to wire it so it kills all the power going to the front.

 

if the batt is int he trunk and you run tha alternator wire to the starter, you need to run the alt wire to the rear too to be terminated at the switch. or the car wopnt shut off. it needs to be cut off of the positive side not the ground side.

 

I think I'm gonna put my battery where u have urs cause thats a lot of wiring back and forth.

 

it is and thats a bad voltage drop. it can be done but at the expense of weight. weight in the wrong place.

 

put your battery in the alternator

 

nana you got it wrong, put the alternator in the battery

 

I'm gonna run 2 batteries in the slicks. equal weight to both wheels

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtekthis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nana you got it wrong, put the alternator in the battery</TD></TR></TABLE>

that may work for you darren, but my cf hood is now a solar panel. nanny nanny boo boo.
hoooo haaaa

 

engage

 

wow 11 posts of such helpful info.

 

where?

 

I just recently installed my flaming river cut off and the it works nice, but the only thing i didnt like about it is the large hole you need to cut open on the inside cuz the lever doesnt just goes back n forth, but up and out to the left. so that rod is traveling forward, up and out to the left all at the same time. but it looks good and works nice. and I love how the rod is removable for street use.


-zol

 

I agree with you Zol. I went through two panels in my teg with mine. The panel that is closest to the switch I had to make oval to allow for the arm swingout.

The latching/cam type feel in the switch is what I like. It is well constructed and is solid unlike others that I have seen first hand.

Chad if you do it right then you don't need big wires going back and forth. Look at the other threads of how guys wire their cars. You'll find help there.

Here is where I have mine installed. I will get pics of the inside tonight for you.

 

heres mine.




-zol

 

Do u guys have the batteries in the back?

How are the wires run and does it kill alternator.

 

Yup.... battery in back next to kill switch.

You can cut the green/yellow (at least that's the color on my 00 GSR) wire 12vdc that goes to the ALT to kill the charging circuit. It kills the output of the ALT.

I corner scale my car so I know where and what corner weighs what.... The rear is perfectly balanced. I will bolt in a few pounds of lead to the front in certain spots most likely.

 

who coner scaled ur car?

 

I did.

 

You can buy a cheap switch like I did.. Just make sure its a 4 post switch. Run one wire from the starter to the switch and then on the other post go from the switch to the battery.

The other two posts you connect together, this way you save wire going from the alternator to the post twice.

Those switches are big dollars when you make your own for under $20...

 

This is pre-wiring everything.

Better pic of the kill switch....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is pre-wiring everything.

Better pic of the kill switch....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

where did you get that box from?

 

Ebay actually, but Taylor Vertex makes the box for this Odyssey 925T battery. It's 100% sealed and NHRA approved too.

Cost was about $80.