Im planning on breaking in my engine the new way (http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) by this I mean that after making sure everthing is ok with no smoke, leaks ect...I will do a series of pulls/runs to around 50mph and let the car slow/stop by itself, I will repeat this process for around 25-50 miles if I don't get stop by the police . I will use regular oil (Valvoline) for the first 100 miles or so then I will switch to syntetic oil.

Now this are the questions that I got and please, unless you have experience first hand, no guessing please.

I know this have been ask before but a lot of people give the same answer but without any evidence or facts,
(1) If I remove the spring out of the gate, will I be able to break in my turbo engine WITHOUT removing my turbo set up?

Don't know if this will affect anything on the break in process but I will ask anyway, Also for those WHO REALLY KNOW, if you can explain yes/no and most important WHY!!!
(2) I have a 3 bar map sensor and a 255 walbro fuel pump that I haven't install, YET, should I install them prior to break in process or should I leave it stock for now? In case I ended up installing this parts, will it be ok if I do so prior to break in process?

This I really will like to know if anybody did it, for the breaking process Im planing on using my stock P28 ecu, I will be doing regular driving since I consider the process that Im gonna use for the break in, regular everyday driving.
(3)Will this be ok, to use my stock ecu (no modification) to use it to drive around specially to break the engine in?

This I already did, and want to know if I should leave like that or put the stock ones on,
(4) Already install 550cc injectors, will it be ok to use then or should I put back the stock ones since im using my stock ecu?

Once again, don't want to sound like a dick/***, but please if you can trully answer me this question and explaing to me why yes/no.
Don't waste my time and the time of others by posting info you trully know anything about UNLESS you can trully provided with enought info to back your theory.
Thank you guys, and hope this info can help a lot of people that are going thru this right now OR will be going thru this in the near future.

 

i would highly advise u getting a chipped p28 and tuning with crome pro.


is this motor been freshly rebuilt?if so i would run the break in miles without the turbo on there then after break in and the clutch is broken in i would put the turbo kit on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zccr-xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would highly advise u getting a chipped p28 and tuning with crome pro.
is this motor been freshly rebuilt?if so i would run the break in miles without the turbo on there then after break in and the clutch is broken in i would put the turbo kit on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Engine is completly rebuild for a turbo aplication.
Now I know of a lot of people that ran without a chipped ecu, but I understand what you saying, my point was that even thou im running a turbo set up, by removing the spring from the gate it will be running as if wasn't a turbo engine , then why shouldn't use a stock ecu?
I will be chipping my ecu and running a program, I do need it for the tunning IF I really want to see some good numbers But Im trying to see if I don't need the chipped ecu right at the moment while doing the break in.

It it comes down to that, I have everything to put it to run N/A, but I know a lot of people have break in their engines with the turbo in place, What about the Turbo engines when they get rebuild, they do their breakins with the turbo set up install so why not me/us?
Thanks for your reply hopefully I will get enouth replies to make up my mind.

 

lol i wouldnt do that.but one to his own i would break it in the boost it.then drive around a few days with out boosting the motor just to break in the seals in the turbo,how much bosst u plan on running?u can run up to 10 pounds on a stock map how are u going to control the 550's with a stock ecu?theres a good write-up on how to break in a motor in the forced induction forums!to be honest with u if it did work it would run like *** untill u got them 550s in there with a chipped ecu on a good basemap.


btw where did u hear of taking the spring out of the wastegate like that??

 

The stock ECU with the 550's will inject way too much fuel, washing down your cylinders at the worst possible time, during break-in. Use stock injectors with your stock ECU. Even then make sure that you have a wide-band on it, different pistons have different fueling requirements and it's better to be safe than to have to rebuild your new motor after 20 miles.

Why even put the turbo on it if you are breaking it in NA? Put a regular exhaust on it. That's what I'm doing now with my new motor.

I use the Mototune break-in on all of my new motors and haven't had any bad results from it yet.

 

im not sure if removing the wastegate spring would work. but when i broke in my turbo engine i used stock ecu & injectors and disconected an intercooler pipe.

 

Ok guys so I will install the stock injectors back using the stock ecu for the braking in and I will also remove the spring from the gate and also will disconnect the IC piping, its that all?
If is going to be such a hassle I will install everthing back to stock and break in the engine like that, then put my turbo set up back.

But I know theres have to be a few of you guys that broke in a turbo engine without removing the turbo,
but where are you guys?

 

I've broken in mine on boost before as well, just ran low boost off the WG spring. The main thing with the Mototune break-in is to load the motor quickly to properly seat the rings while the crosshatch is still fresh. I've also broken one in on the dyno at full boost, just took a few minutes and the motor was good to go, 1%-2% leakdown and ran perfect. JDogg recommended the dyno break-in and it worked well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've broken in mine on boost before as well, just ran low boost off the WG spring. The main thing with the Mototune break-in is to load the motor quickly to properly seat the rings while the crosshatch is still fresh. I've also broken one in on the dyno at full boost, just took a few minutes and the motor was good to go, 1%-2% leakdown and ran perfect. JDogg recommended the dyno break-in and it worked well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So did you use a spring on your gate or did you use 5 pound spring? Im trying to use the highway since Its near by, plus I save some money Don't get me wrong I will go to the dyno for the tunning, thats the only way I will reach my horse power goal.

PS- When you said load the motor quickly to seat the rings this will tranfer to running the engine up to 50-60 mph and then let it slow down by it self if I decide to doing this in a highway, Right?

 

Exactly, just like it says on the Mototune Web site. And I used the lowest spring that I had, usually 5-6 PSI. I run it up to about 6000 RPM at 1/2-3/4 throttle, then let the engine slow it down, then do it again a few times. I run it around like that for about 20 minutes, then change the oil and filter and check the torque on my head studs. For the first few days I keep varying the throttle, never letting it cruise at a consistent speed, and I keep the RPM's under 6000. After a couple of hundred miles of that I change the oil/filter again. I drive it normally for about a thousand miles after that, then change the oil/filter and switch to synthetic. That's worked for several motors that I've had.