Hey,

I may be getting back into a ITR (may is the operative word) and if it doesn't already make over 200whp when I buy it, I plan on building it to get there. Question is what is the average cost for a reliable (or as reliable as it can be) 200-210whp (pump gas) all motor build? Please include tuning and if you have a parts list that would be helpful to, thanks in advance.

~Brian~ aka Hooptie

 

ah damn I found some threads already by searching

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=204223
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=334308
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=973558
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=341677

sorry, should have known. Well any other advice would be good too.

 

There are many ways to get there... Dave_B is close to 200whp on JUST bolt ons (Granted, they are extremely high quality bolt onts). Others have 200whp with cams and valvetrain.

But honestly, this is the route I'm going for 215whp or so:

-JUN valvetrain
-JUN-III cams
-Ported B16 head (PR3 casting, no one will know the difference. Since it's being ported, it won't matter, I want to keep my complete Type-R head untouched)
-Stock Type-R IM/TB
-JDM Integra Type-R pistons (P73-00)
-Single-layer headgasket
-CROME tuned (Good friend is the nastiest Honda tuner around here, and he tunes with CROME)

I already have:

-TODA header
-Omnipower testpipe
-DC Sports exhaust
-AEM 3" CAI

I figure at LEAST 210whp will be easily achievable with that setup listed above... That'll be plenty for me with an ATS 4.928FD.

It all depends on which route YOU want to go. Just some mild cams and valvetrain with a good tune could get you into the 200whp range easily.

 

thanks... how much $$$ are we talking here?

 

Woops, forgot to include that little portion, haha.

Figure:

-$1,000 or so for a GOOD header (I would recommend SMS-P, although they run a BIT more expensive than $1,000, it's WELL worth it)
-$300-$1,000 in exhaust (Depending on how baller you are)
-$100-$700 on intake (Once again, baller status)
-$800-$1,500 on used high quality valvetrain and cams (TODA, JUN, etc)
-$200 for P73-00 pistons and rings
-$100 on headgasket
-$1,000 Installation/machine work (If applicable)

Honestly, I'd start off with bolt ons, and down the road start collecting parts to do your build. That's what I'm doing, my bolt ons are done.

As for bolt ons, if you're baller, do this:

-SMS-P header
-T1R exhaust
-Mugen intake
-Flux Capacitor (M4dd jdm vtack)

That would put you close to 190whp with a good tune ALONE... That extra 10-15whp wouldn't be hard to uncover with some mild cams... Even TODA As (Safe to run on stock Type-R valvetrain) would get you 10whp with tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Dave_B is close to 200whp on JUST bolt ons </TD></TR></TABLE>

He photoshoped his dyno graph


Looking at your build, I would look into a ported intake manifold, and send your stock TB to maxbore.com to be bored out, just to make your chances of attaining 215 greater. My build is a lot more aggressive than that and I am only putting down 202 WHP, don't set too high of a goal to get disappointed when you don't make the power you want. And Crome, what happened to Neptune RTP?

 

Well CROME's free.

Haha, nah, my tuner said he'd look into it.

I was definately looking into ImportBuilder's unit, but I'll get that later on down the line along with a larger throttle body. I'm doing the "build" in stages, the head is first, then intake system, then bottom end.

I've heard of plenty of guys putting down 210-215whp on stock Type-R bottom end with JUN-IIIs and nice bolt ons... Granted, these are probably the absolute BEST numbers ever for those components (i.e JUN-IIIs on stock Type-R bottom end), but I'd be happy with 200whp, I'm just HOPING for 210-215.

 

One meeeeellion dollars....

 

Ok... first... there's only about 10k on the motor (more like 11-12k now) but my mods are this...

Mugen Intake $815.00
SMSP 1 Piece Header and Race Exhaust $1350.00
Hondata IM gasket kit $50
Mugen Headgasket Not sure on price, but IIRC around $125.00

So basically for right around 2.5k or so you can do it.

HOWEVER!!!! The exhaust I would not recommend for the street. It's basically a straight pipe, resonator then dump tube.

HTH, if you have any questions just LMK.

 

well I'm definatly going with a twin loop cuz I just love the way it sounds. I'll prolly end up going with the mugen intake too. Other then those two parts, a ATS 4.9, toda flywheel and exedy clutch, I'm open to anything.

BTW where are those WTD's that can help me on a clutch, flywheel, and final drive install (hell might as well do a tranny rebuild too, lol)

 

I am currently putting down 175.1/113.7 on a Mustang Dyno ( 15%- 201.37hp/130.76tq....20%-210.12hp/136.44tq for conversion to actual whp)

Mods:

B18C5 shortblock /// B16 head P&P
-Custom Whale ***** Intake
-Hondata IM Gasket
-Toda Spec B Cams
-Toda Cam Gears
-Toda Complete Valvetrain
-Toda Header
-Toda Clutch/Flywheel
-Spoon Headgasket
-Spoon Plug Wires
-RS-R Exmag exhaust // no cat

FWIW, tuned by King Motorsports and vtec crossover is at 7500rpm, 8600 redline.
Toda B's have some hella nice midrange. Like them alot!

 

so why do people go with the B16 head? I never quite understood that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hooptie157 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so why do people go with the B16 head? I never quite understood that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cost. It's the same casting, just different valve train and if your going to put cams and such in it, why bother with a C5 head?

 

just gonna list main parts/build
rm m22xx
rm valve trains
adj. cam gears
aebs IM
ctr pistons .25mm os
anr header
short ram + velocity stack
2.5" b piped mugen TL
chipped/socketed p28
+ ecu harness
crome tuned

costed me around 4000 canadian for this build

makes 200.8 @ 8000 rpm and 140 tq @ 7800-900
redlines at 9125

 

ok i know this isnt exactly what u asked but have u considered a jrsc with low boost? u should have similar reliability and a much better powerband.
Probably cheaper as well.

One of many examples

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i know this isnt exactly what u asked but have u considered a jrsc with low boost? u should have similar reliability and a much better powerband.
Probably cheaper as well.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Kind of the thoughts I was having. Lately, I've been on an anti-NA kick. The cost/reliability/potential of JRSC just seem to outshine any NA set-up you can stack against it. And that's if you're looking for a linear torque and horsepower curve similar to an NA set-up. We already know what turbos can do so no need in beating that dead horse.

200 NA whp use to be awesome. Now it's JUST 200 hp and it still takes at the minimum 2k to reach that plateau. Probably closer to 3k if you count tuning.

To each their own though.

To answer the original question though, I guess to sepnd somewhere b/w 2-3k.

 

exactly the torque curve is great with a supercharger

 

hmm this is very useful information. I currently have a jdm ls bottom end with b16 head and I was going to go with a complete gsr swap but i think i may end up looking into a type r shortblock and tranny now instead.

so you guys are saying that b16 and type r heads look identical so you wont have problems from local authorities?

 

yeah that's what i make with simple n/a build.

i rather have built n/a motor than s/c stock motor anyday

 

the JRSC with the LHT intercooler kit is something that i have been looking into as well, even with the mods that i have. change out the cams and be good to go. With the LHT kit, intake air temps lower ~100 degrees which leads to an additional 25-30 whp. So with the kit you can run *safely* 10 lbs of boost on a stock itr bottom end and prolly look to get 275whp+ depending on tuning and mods, maybe even get close to 300whp, with torque to boot

 

$5k should get you there.

But it depends if you already started with a block and head and tranny on hand.

I would start with a 2.0L bottom end

 

Block sleeving w/bore/hone~$1000
Pistons~$500
Rods~$300
Bearings/gaskets/seals~$300
Cams/springs/retainers~$800
Good header-$700-$1100
Exhaust~$700
Injectors-$200
Intake-~$200
Hondata S100+ socketing-$270
Tuning~$300
Total between $5-6K.
Power=200-230+ depending on parts chosen, quality of assembly and execution, and tuning.