Idea's on why my GT28RS seized on me????
I've had this turbo on the full-race stage 1 GT kit on the car for approx 5,000 miles now. I was driving it the other day and the turbo started to act weird, almost like a silicon tube popped off or something. I limped it home about a mile and looked for problems. Well after finding no couplers loose, I removed the air filter. When I tried to spin the turbo it was not spinning as easy as it used to. Not completely seized, but definitely something wrong. I had good oil pressure, and never had signs of any problems before. If you guys could maybe recommend some things to look at before I install my new turbo. Thanks for any help
Modified by dkboyny11 at 9:42 AM 2/25/2007
Modified by dkboyny11 at 9:42 AM 2/25/2007
My oil feed was taken from the brace tee fitting that full-race supplied to be located where the stock oil light sensor was. I originally wasn't sent the restrictor in the beginning and had to send the turbo back to garret because I thought it was leaking through the seals or something. I think was was due to no restrictor. They rebuilt it anyway and sent it back to me. I ran it with a restrictor the second time with no problems. I could always hear the turbo spin forever after shutting the car off. The drain is the one supplied with the full race kit run to a Z10 oil pan. No kinks or anything smooth transitions. Also, I first has a #4 AN oilfeed line, but used a #3 oil feed line with the restrictor after the first problem.
Contact a Garrett distributor, and ask them about they're CHRA replacement program. I just heard about this the other day from Garrett's news letter. If they will replace the CHRA or give credit for a new turbo unless they find a reason that the turbo was improperlly used or taken care of.
I just found the source to the failure. I had a very tinny piece of silicone stuck in the oil feed line restrictor. Was I supposed to run a filter along the oil feed line???? Has anyone else experienced this before. Man realy sucks that a little piece of silicone F'd my $1000 turbo up. I don't even know if they will be able to fix any part of this thing. I could see broken pieces inside the oil housing on the return side. Mother F'er
I've had that exact problem before, a piece if excess grey silicone from the engine assembly got in there and it destroyed a $1000 ball-bearing turbo. With the tiny little restrictors that the BB turbos like, any little thing will clog it. Since then I used a -4AN line with a ATP restrictor fitting on the turbo and a wire-basket style strainer filter inline. NOS makes a nice aluminum one that fits inline with a -4AN oil feed line. Since then I've had no problems.
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Thanks for sharing, that certainly gives me food for thought. Not exactly a scenario that I had considered, but another case of benefitting from others misfortune. None of us are as smart as all of us!
On my oil distribution manifolds, I always put a little screen in front of the outlet for the turbo. It goes from 1/4" NPT into a 1/4-1/8" bushing, to the 1/8"-to-AN fitting that I make into a restrictor; the screen is wedged in right before that first bushing, pushed in from the other side of the manifold.
Thanks for the info. I have a GT28RS dual-ball bearing turbo as well. I had a little grey piece of silicone stuck in my .035" restrictor also. Man what a shitty thing to happen. I guess it's just our luck
That's the one, it has a screen basket filter inside of it, works great as an oil filter for my turbo oil feed. The -4AN filter screws right in to a -4AN oil feed line, and it's easy to open and check the strainer. Here's a pic of it on my motor:
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