Fluctuating idle
Ok i switched out the IACV already with 2 different ones. Nothing violent but still fluctuates from 1200-1500, also it doesn't do it all the time. One thing i noticed though is if its doing it and i stick my finger on the small hole in the TB it'll stop and idle becomes normal. what's the problem?
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Im having sort of the same problem. Wat bothers me is it only does it sometimes. If it did it all the time then im pretty sure it would be a vacuum leak. Next time im home from college in 2 weeks im gonna put in a new clutch and look for a vacuum leak. You should try getting a can of wd40 or some carb cleaner and spray around your intake manifold and between your throttlebody and IM and every vacuum line connection. If you hear the motor rev up then you know where the vacuum leak is. Let me know if that works. The only other way i know how to do it is a leak down test where you pump air into the system and listen for leaks but ive never done that before so i dont know the specific details on how its done.
My 96 DX auto chassis with 98 EX Vtec harness, manual conversion and P28 with B motor have been doing that for close to 3 years. I have tried 2 other idle air controllers, traced all wiring, traced all vacuum lines and still have not determined a solution. I have also had my car tuned, and it did not interfere with tuning. In fact my tuner played with idle to try and clean it up, but even then it occasionally starts to fluctuate.
Is your purge control solenoid hooked up? The P28 purges at idle sometimes and will cause a vacuum leak on some B-series EVAP systems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is your purge control solenoid hooked up? The P28 purges at idle sometimes and will cause a vacuum leak on some B-series EVAP systems.</TD></TR></TABLE> nope no purge valve on.
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i have a similar problem and have had it in two hondas now and the kid i sold my old shell to has the same problem with a completely different swap. when i start it up it goes to 3k and idles there for about a minute, then it bounces up and down from 2-3k for a lil bit all anyone ever says i iacv and inlet temp sensor i tried vacuum lines, i have tried everything, even hondata. oh and is it just mine or does your car stop doing it once it gets warm. matter of fact it doesnt do it at all on hot summer days. bump for some answers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blucivicSl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah and lsvtecpower, why dont you just clog up that hole permanently if it makes it stop idling funny</TD></TR></TABLE> if anything, that'll be my last resort
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hey guys i found the fix for this **** check out this link
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003988
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003988
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i figured out that it couldnt be the iacv because that only regulates the idle after its warmed up. it couldnt be vaccum hoses i checked those,replaced my tps and nothing worked. I realized the only part that was used in both my civics was my throttle body and sensors attatched to it, so it must be the fast idle thermo valve got loose (probably vibrates a lot at 8500 rpm. i am gonna try to fix it tomorrow so ill let you guys know how it went since it sounds like you all have the same exact problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is your purge control solenoid hooked up? The P28 purges at idle sometimes and will cause a vacuum leak on some B-series EVAP systems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The purge solenoid appears to be my problem. I disconnected the hose and plugged it with my finger, and the idle settled. Plan to pull the whole evap system soon, since car can't pass emissions anyway with P28 in 96 chassis
The purge solenoid appears to be my problem. I disconnected the hose and plugged it with my finger, and the idle settled. Plan to pull the whole evap system soon, since car can't pass emissions anyway with P28 in 96 chassis
You can just unplug the EVAP purge control solenoid connector. Less work, and if the car ever has to be fixed to pass emissions testing, you will still have all of the system components.
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rice a roni
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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May 24, 2005 12:31 PM



