bad idle
02-23-2005, 03:51 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sacramento2SanFrancisco, CA
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bad idle
new problem with gsr. it has a very bad idle. it idles b/t 1k and 2k. what could be the reason for this? some guy told me it might be the sensors on the intake manifold but im not too sure. any help will be appreciated.. thanks h-t'ers!
Trending Topics
03-01-2005, 11:46 AM
#9
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Denton County, TX
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: bad idle (STUCKED)
i had this problem before it is your fast idle valve. take your throttle body off and disconnect all of the hoses and cables. on the bottom side there will be a flat plate with 2 screws on it. take it off inside you will find a white screw. take a wide screwdriver and tighten it down (not too tight). re-assemble and your problem will be fixed
03-01-2005, 12:52 PM
#11
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (virusiidx)
confirming w/ a previous post.. FITV, FIV (fast idle thermo valve, fast idle valve) is the most likely culprit... my car did this as well.. the idle bounces up and down.. at first the car may warm up and stop.. after time it never stops.
Easy Fix:
Begin w/ a test. Remove intake piping and just inside the TB are two holes. One at 6 and one at like 7. Now i believe the outer hole (7) is the correct hole to test for (use your head, if no reaction then try the other) anyways, start your engine and wait for symptoms, then plug the hole. did it stop? yes...then continue.
To Solve:
Just under the TB is a valve w/ a coolant line running into it on the engine side. This part is held on by 3 bolts which are easy to remove.. use a small socket wrench w/ a short 1" - 1.5" extension (especially for the back bolt) once you get that part unbolted coolant will come out. THIS IS NORMAL. disconnect any hoses attached.
OK NOW THAT you have the part removed you'll see a copper cap held by two screws. Remove the cap, inside you'll find the actual valve. That valve has shaken itself loose dude to engine vibration. (mine just fell out when i opened it) That valve has two lined grooves on the face of it. you'll want to use those grooves to screw the valve back into place. make sure you screw it all the way down, i had to use a flathead to get past the tension. When it's fully screwed down the plunger will close. Then Re-Install.
Troubleshooting:
The test worked but car still revs / Solution: Repeat previous steps, valve was not closed all the way.
Easy Fix:
Begin w/ a test. Remove intake piping and just inside the TB are two holes. One at 6 and one at like 7. Now i believe the outer hole (7) is the correct hole to test for (use your head, if no reaction then try the other) anyways, start your engine and wait for symptoms, then plug the hole. did it stop? yes...then continue.
To Solve:
Just under the TB is a valve w/ a coolant line running into it on the engine side. This part is held on by 3 bolts which are easy to remove.. use a small socket wrench w/ a short 1" - 1.5" extension (especially for the back bolt) once you get that part unbolted coolant will come out. THIS IS NORMAL. disconnect any hoses attached.
OK NOW THAT you have the part removed you'll see a copper cap held by two screws. Remove the cap, inside you'll find the actual valve. That valve has shaken itself loose dude to engine vibration. (mine just fell out when i opened it) That valve has two lined grooves on the face of it. you'll want to use those grooves to screw the valve back into place. make sure you screw it all the way down, i had to use a flathead to get past the tension. When it's fully screwed down the plunger will close. Then Re-Install.
Troubleshooting:
The test worked but car still revs / Solution: Repeat previous steps, valve was not closed all the way.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post