I tried hammering out the bitch pin with one of the a/c bracket bolts, but my hammer doesn't have a whole lot of clearance under the kaa. Would it be possible to just drill out the pin, and replace it? Thanks.


Modified by MugenDude at 1:41 PM 1/15/2005

 

You will find that the pin is harder than the drill.Go to napa or sears and buy a punch.
Glenn

 

hi
what I use is a 4mm or 5mm deep well socket with a small extension and a hammer also some weasel juice (wd-40). the 4 0r 5 mm is the perfect size. use like a stanley or something cheap because you won't be able to use the socket again after you beat the **** out of it. so don't use a good one. the extension is just a handle so you don't smash your finger.
hope it helps.

 

yea i found that its not how hard u hit it, i ended up getting it out with a lot of short taps and a punch. i also broke about 3 punches. I first tried to drill it with no luck, i even went and bought the "hard metal" bits for $30 at sears, ruined those pretty quick. just get a punch on it and prepare for 20 mins of solid tapping.

~kris

 

go to sears and buy a punch set and get some wd 40 and a good size hammer
lift the car as high as possible with jack stands and spray the lube let it settle and then bang away .
i did this with mine, it was pretty bad for me because it was really rusty.
good luck

 

wd40 helps too

 

people on h-t still use wd40?
pb blaster f00! *sprays gang sign on wall with pb blaster*
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well, guess i'll be tapping the hell out of this stupid pin tomorrow. why isn't there a bolt here again?

if that doesn't work, i have an idea involving a c-clamp, and some small sockets.

 

Raise the car a little higher with taller jackstands, and as previously mentioned, buy a punch set, but don't buy anything from sears because crapsman is garbage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenDude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried hammering out the bitch pin with one of the a/c bracket bolts, but my hammer doesn't have a whole lot of clearance under the kaa. Would it be possible to just drill out the pin, and replace it? Thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could unbolt the other end of the shift rod and take it out with the tranny.

 

Hammer it till she comes out. I made a tool to press it out, but I alsways have to do them. Be sure that the end of the pin dosen't get mushroomed out. Oh ya get a punch set, bolts don't work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slomofo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Raise the car a little higher with taller jackstands, and as previously mentioned, buy a punch set, but don't buy anything from sears because crapsman is garbage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

?? maby he doesn't want to spend 3 times as much on a PUNCH there isn't allot of engineering in a punch

 

or if you donr want to spend money at all you can use one of the AC compressor bolts

 

i use one of the bolts that they use to hold the B16A IM bracket on with, you know the ones that have like a stalk?

make sure the surface that you are punching with is flat - NOT pointed.

once you have removed it, make sure you never use it again:

drill out the riveted end of the shifter and repalce with a bolt, then permanantly attach the tranny mount to the tranny and only have to wory about removing one bolt in the future,

saved my *** a lota time many times!

 

The bolt replacement isn't a bad idea - except that bolts are designed for tensional stress and not shearing stress. If that bolt fails (and it will be seeing ONLY shearing stress with shifts) then your shift linkage could pogo stick itself right out from the bottom of the car.

Most people just pull the engine/trans with that linkage arm still attached.

As far as removing the spring pin - use the right sized punch and prepare to be hammering hard for 20-30 minutes. That's why it's best to just remove it from the shift rod and deal with it out of the car if needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clayne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bolt replacement isn't a bad idea - except that bolts are designed for tensional stress and not shearing stress. If that bolt fails (and it will be seeing ONLY shearing stress with shifts) then your shift linkage could pogo stick itself right out from the bottom of the car.

Most people just pull the engine/trans with that linkage arm still attached.

As far as removing the spring pin - use the right sized punch and prepare to be hammering hard for 20-30 minutes. That's why it's best to just remove it from the shift rod and deal with it out of the car if needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that could be pretty bad.

 

After thinking about it though the shift rod side does use a bolt so I guess if spec'd the same you'd be fine.

As said before just remove the engine/trans with the shift linkage (the one with pin) still attached to it.

 

If you use a bolt, even if tis the same size you will have lots of play in the shifter..
you can cut two 1 inch horizontal slids on the on the part of the shifter that slides over the tranny shifting rod; so if you do use a bolt it will compress and not allow any movement

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You could unbolt the other end of the shift rod and take it out with the tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

seriously, why do you ppl insist on removing the linkage pin while under the car?

its a non issue once its out to remove. go ahead and do it the hard way and complain and give all the great "tips".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use a bolt, even if tis the same size you will have lots of play in the shifter..</TD></TR></TABLE>

more play than the stock rivets?

nahhh...

try it - you will be surprised...

oh and it is ESSENTIAL that you use a nyloc nut to secure the bolt, do not use a plain nut, other wise the car will try to drive over teh top of the shifter as clayne has envisaged

 

Go to sears. Get a 8MM punch pin. I think that's it. It'll get the biotch out in a second

 

my local sears only has standard pin punches. i'm just gonna unbolt it from the shifter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tinkerbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more play than the stock rivets?

nahhh...

try it - you will be surprised...

oh and it is ESSENTIAL that you use a nyloc nut to secure the bolt, do not use a plain nut, other wise the car will try to drive over teh top of the shifter as clayne has envisaged </TD></TR></TABLE>

the ''bitch pin'' goes in with pressure right? thats why its a bitch to take out...
if your sliding a bolt through the hole its not really putting any pressure to hold things tight; or at least a lot less than the spring pin was.

rivets? you mean pivot joint of the shift rod?
i guess we are not talking about the same thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the ''bitch pin'' goes in with pressure right? thats why its a bitch to take out...
if your sliding a bolt through the hole its not really putting any pressure to hold things tight; or at least a lot less than the spring pin was.

rivets? you mean pivot joint of the shift rod?
i guess we are not talking about the same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, that is why you put the bitch pin back in where it was, and drill out the pivot point of the shift rod and replace that with a bolt.

the bitch pin and the end of the shift rod stay attached to the tranny forever and you detach the pivot point everytime you remove the engine...

sorry if i was not clear

 

BTW, just the other day I removed the pin from a trans that had it still attached after removal. Took all of literally 60 seconds - using a punch and hammer after flipping the trans over. Don't waste your time under the car.