When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
so im installing these moog front sway bar links and there is no directions included with them and my old ones were shattered
does this look right as far as mounting to the bottom of the control arm?
It's what I'd expect to see. Rubber bushings between all of the metal components, with the rounded bits of the rubber facing out from the control arm and sway bar (so the flat surface goes up against the control arm and the flat of the sway bar). If the kit comes with cupped washers, I usually have them surrounding the rubber bushing, but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
It's what I'd expect to see. Rubber bushings between all of the metal components, with the rounded bits of the rubber facing out from the control arm and sway bar (so the flat surface goes up against the control arm and the flat of the sway bar). If the kit comes with cupped washers, I usually have them surrounding the rubber bushing, but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
thanks!
so...i got myself a set of integra fat 5 rims for a good price and they came with a set of nitto NT01's..2 of them are trashed but the others have alot of meat on them.
would it be a bad idea to get a new set of nt01s for one pair of the wheels and run the existing ones?
the tire depth gauge i have says they're about 7 mm of tread left (if i read it correctly) and i have a set of like new no name tires that read about 8mm.
so...i got myself a set of integra fat 5 rims for a good price and they came with a set of nitto NT01's..2 of them are trashed but the others have alot of meat on them.
would it be a bad idea to get a new set of nt01s for one pair of the wheels and run the existing ones?
the tire depth gauge i have says they're about 7 mm of tread left (if i read it correctly) and i have a set of like new no name tires that read about 8mm.
As long as there is no damage to the two newer tyres you should be fine mixing new and gently used NT01s. NT01s behave similarly to the old RA1s and take a while to cycle out, so if there's any tread on them they will still have grip. Just check the two new-ish looking tyres and make sure they don't have any flat spots on the tread or damage to the sidewalls.
Last edited by boxedfox; Mar 28, 2018 at 10:42 PM.
woof. so i finally got this bad boy together and i was all set to go to hit up limerock this week but i ran into a snafu with my title due to the DMV not accepting the lien release as valid so i have to wait until the thing clears from the loan company
so i need to get it registered and get an alignment and it should be good to go for its first track day as long as the shakedown works. ive driven around my house but havent had the chance to really open it up and whatnot.
thing thing stops on a dime compared to my daily driver. not sure if its the pads or the SS lines..or both?
i am also going to be replacing the clutch and doing a light wheel flywheel setup as well.
is going with an OEM replacement like the exedy KHC12 the right thing to do or should i fork out the $$ for a stage 1 or stage 2 clutch?
i am sort of under the impression these things are for high hp drag/street cars.
If you're not bound by class rules and daily driving, a solid disc clutch (unsprung) and lightened flywheel will make a big difference. ACT has a BUNCH of different of different options. I think an OEM (or similar) clutch will work just fine, but if you're going to have it apart might as well make it fun right?! : ) I couldn't do the flywheel because of class rules, but I did a solid disc clutch when I installed the diff and man there was a difference.
Great thread so far, I'm going down the same road with my newly acquired GSR too. What are you going to use for dampers/springs? I'm leaning towards the ground control/koni set up but I've not decided as of now. I'm glad to hear the brakes are a noticeable improvement. I'm toying with the idea of doing the ITR caliper/Mini rotor/TSX pad set up on mine for more bite at the track.
Great thread so far, I'm going down the same road with my newly acquired GSR too. What are you going to use for dampers/springs? I'm leaning towards the ground control/koni set up but I've not decided as of now. I'm glad to hear the brakes are a noticeable improvement. I'm toying with the idea of doing the ITR caliper/Mini rotor/TSX pad set up on mine for more bite at the track.
im sticking with the stock stuff for now. eventualy ill prob go with the progress coilovers or maybe konis.
yea the ITR setup is pretty nice but i think the stock stuff is enough unless you're doing competitive wheel to wheel racing and at that point id say its prob a good idea to go for a real BBK.
I ran Integra brakes on my Civic for 4-5 years before switching over to the ITR/Mini setup. The Integra brakes with decent pads, fluid and steel braided lines were enough for the most part. The ITR brakes feel better though, and I feel like I am not on the edge of the brakes' capacity as much, with way less heat at the end of my track session. I have built up speed with the years too, so the better brakes were needed.
That's the type of upgrade that you shouldn't worry about until you get bad fading issues or pads that start breaking apart due to heat.
I vote for a exedy stage 1. I'd been abusing the crap out of mine for years, had to switch out to the different spline drive recently. There was almost no discernible difference between my old one and new one.
havent been updating this thread but i finally got it registered after some paper work issues. got it aligned and am hitting my first track day this sunday!
so it rained pretty hard on saturday and the day was more or less a wash. the weather was overcast for sunday and it held out most of the day until the very end and i decided to pack it in because i didnt want to hit the track with r compound tires in the rain...
i got some flack for running R compounds for my first track day but i couldnt beat the price of like new hoosiers..which were cheaper than a set of summer tires these things grip like crazy when theyre warm
my instructor took me for a ride in his car and it was awesome going for a real fast lap around the track. i def think the instructor + classroom sessions were worth it and learned alot
Very cool man 😎. Was that your first time on thunderbolt? I love that track and it favors low power cars vs lightning. Im heading there this wed for a track night in America and again on sat.
Very cool man ��. Was that your first time on thunderbolt? I love that track and it favors low power cars vs lightning. Im heading there this wed for a track night in America and again on sat.
yes, first time on a road course as well. im doing the track day on thurs with NJMP..are they running track night on saturday? might have to fork up more shekels and do that on saturday if thats the case.
i wanted to do limerock in july but they dont have any HPDE1's so im trying to find other things to do before the next NASA event.
finally got some more pics from on the track. never thought id pay for photos but i couldnt resist...
you can even see my fugly face
my instructor telling me to look where im turning....
Awesome shots!! Tnia is this wed, sat is a hpde club called Moehpde. It’s a strong intermediate/advanced run group. 6 sessions per day for 230$. Hard to beat.
Awesome shots!! Tnia is this wed, sat is a hpde club called Moehpde. It’s a strong intermediate/advanced run group. 6 sessions per day for 230$. Hard to beat.
ive heard about MoeHPDE but im still a newb ..do you have to make it to HPDE4 in NASA before they accept you?
Originally Posted by REC-ek
That looks like a ton of fun. What type of kinks to have to iron out after your first track day?
i have an intermittent misfire and i believe the distributor is bad..i replaced one of the fuel injectors and the fuel filter along with the sparkplug wires and it still misses around 3-4K rpms after its warmed up. it will start stumbling below that sometimes too..
the distributor is new from what i can tell so im not sure what it is. i am going to replace it eventually and hope that helps it...
the rear main seal and oil pan are leaking pretty badly as well...to the point where i have to add oil due to the leak and not because the motor is burning oil (the compression test i did showed 215 psi across all 4 and they were within 1-3 lbs of one another..pretty good for a car w/ 200K miles)
i am going to do 2 more track days and i will be taking the motor out to fix these things. i also am considering putting in a b16 trans as well along with a lightweight flywheel.
Moe’s group is “ strong intermediate and advanced “ drivers. Long as your comfortable giving point by’s anywhere on track, cleared solo and can drive a decent pace on the race line. Your fine. I had all kinds of issues when I first got my car running last year. Oil pan kept leaking, rear Main seal was bad, and Input shaft bearing went, and it was leaking trans fluid pretty good. It’s all fixed now and bone dry, thank god it was driving me crazy.
if your interested in a set of itr/mini/tsx front brake combo, mine will be coming off shortly...but unfortunately i wont get my new setup before the lime rock weekend