When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You won't want to widen the hole any or when you put the new one in, it may not hold as tight and you end up with unwanted movement. Soak it with PB blaster or the like, put shifter in Reverse and beat the hell out of it. I used a roll pin punch that I bought from Lowes. I didn't think it was ever going to move and a little at a time it started to. Make sure you don't flare out the end your beating on or it may not push through.
yup..it finally started to move. ive been soaking it in pb blaster, hammering on it, heating it up with a torch.,hammering on it..rinse and repeat every 30 mins to an hour
Yeah, I did it about a week ago. I thought I was going break something before it ever started to move. Odd enough it was much harder to remove than my other civic with 70k more miles.
finally got it off. 2 days of on and off hammering finally broke it free. slowly making some progress..going to order a new rack and some other misc parts this week.
got these bushings installed and replaced the inner cage cage on the shifter (didnt get pics of that )
finishing up painting of the calipers and brackets
Measure the hole in the shift rod (in the trans) to make sure it is still round. If its not the trans needs to come apart so it can be replaced as it will cause shifting issues. They can become elongated when you have the beat the pin to death to get it out.
Measure the hole in the shift rod (in the trans) to make sure it is still round. If its not the trans needs to come apart so it can be replaced as it will cause shifting issues. They can become elongated when you have the beat the pin to death to get it out.
measure it ..with..a micrometer? or some sort of gauge..?
i pressed it back in a tiny bit for storage purposes and it still fits super tight.
Measure the hole in the shift rod (in the trans) to make sure it is still round. If its not the trans needs to come apart so it can be replaced as it will cause shifting issues. They can become elongated when you have the beat the pin to death to get it out.
I believe that the race shop that took care of my car used an air hammer with a special tool to get the shift rod pin loose. I took a look on Amazon, and didn't see the tool, but I saw the tool below on E-bay. I know that people may not have access to air tools, but wanted to mention this for those that do. I've never used the tool, but I believe that my shop used their own custom air hammer tool to get the pin out and possibly also for installation. - Jim
measure it ..with..a micrometer? or some sort of gauge..?
i pressed it back in a tiny bit for storage purposes and it still fits super tight.
A snap gauge would be best if you don't have a dial bore gauge that small (they're expensive) or a pair of vernier calipers would get you in the ballpark.
A snap gauge would be best if you don't have a dial bore gauge that small (they're expensive) or a pair of vernier calipers would get you in the ballpark.
these tools are very expensive so i am going to have to gamble with it for the time being
a micrometer from harbor freight is like 8 bucks. It's not going to be dead-nuts accurate like a nice mitutoyo but you can at least be in the ballpark.
anyone got any tips on how to get the cross member engine mount bolt to start? i cant get it to thread
Is that the engine mount closest to the firewall, and is it not threading because there's too much of a gap between the flange and the crossmember?
If so, the last time I did engine mount inserts on an Integra we had to unbolt the front engine mount, gently cant the motor back, install the rear mount loosely, reinstall the front mount, then tighten down the mounts. Similar deal with my Prelude except in that case I lifted the motor slightly using a Harbor Freight transmission jack under the oil pan.
thats the thing..there is no gap as far as i can see. it looks/feels like its threading but it doesnt. i will try your suggestion.
Originally Posted by boxedfox
Is that the engine mount closest to the firewall, and is it not threading because there's too much of a gap between the flange and the crossmember?
If so, the last time I did engine mount inserts on an Integra we had to unbolt the front engine mount, gently cant the motor back, install the rear mount loosely, reinstall the front mount, then tighten down the mounts. Similar deal with my Prelude except in that case I lifted the motor slightly using a Harbor Freight transmission jack under the oil pan.
test fitting and new rota slipstreams. i was going to go with a set of TRM C1's or kosei's but i got a pretty good deal on these. just need to get some better tires when spring rolls around
would it be a bad idea to get a seat of mediocre daily driver pads and buy a set of hawk DTC-60's and swap them in for track days?
or should i just go with a street/track setup for the front brakes (Hawk Performance HB242N.661) aka HPS+?
Do it, just get a second set of rotors so you have one for each set of pads, race pads won't like the glaze laid down by daily pads. Also properly bed track pads before you get to the track, or you'll be buying rotors again (been there, done that). The rotors don't have to be anything fancy, I usually get the basic centrics.
I also stick with something streetable (Hawk Street/Race, ST-43, XP10, etc) for track pads so I don't have to change at the track. You don't want any of those if you're putting any kind of regular street miles on the car though, they're loud and dusty.
The brake pads will really depend on the track and how you are driving. In my Teg at Blackhawk Farms in IL, I use Hawk DTC-60s for road racing. Anything less and they will overheat during a race. I also have brake ducts installed to keep the temps in check.
If you are going to drive this on the street, pick up a spare set of front rotors to swap with the pads between track and street to keep from having to bed the pads in between uses.
i went with the HP+ pads and one set of rotors for now..when/if i get faster and more serious about it ill prob do the full race pad/disc setup
SO.................
the front lower control arms will not bolt up properly due to the energy suspension bushings from what i can see. the bushing will physically fit in the mounting portion of the subframe but it will not allow me to connect the rear bracket
i went with the HP+ pads and one set of rotors for now..when/if i get faster and more serious about it ill prob do the full race pad/disc setup
SO.................
the front lower control arms will not bolt up properly due to the energy suspension bushings from what i can see. the bushing will physically fit in the mounting portion of the subframe but it will not allow me to connect the rear bracket
guess ill have to get new control arms
That's a surprise. Do you have a photo?
Poly bushings do stick out further than the stock bushings so sometimes I have to grease up the sides and tap them in with a hammer to get them to fit into the position. It would be strange if they didn't fit at all.
to me it just looks like an issue where the bushings are too wide and it will not let me move the arm back far enough to let the brackes go into the subframe bolts
02-07-2018, 02:14 PM
Re: sjg88's HPDE DC2 Progress Build Thread
yup..it finally started to move. ive been soaking it in pb blaster, hammering on it, heating it up with a torch.,hammering on it..rinse and repeat every 30 mins to an hour
) 
and new rota slipstreams. i was going to go with a set of TRM C1's or kosei's but i got a pretty good deal on these. just need to get some better tires when spring rolls around 
