Anybody looking for a complete JRSC kit? I'm thinking of selling my current set up. It's for a Type R w/LHT and a super header. Everything will be included, all lines, tanks, spearco pump for lht, brackets for jrsc, stepper pulley, I'll post some pics later. It is currently installed on my car and makes 280hp. I'll be pulling it this fall/winter or sooner if I get a reasonable offer.

 

I just got my baffled compact catch can from Mishimoto. I plan on doing it just like how you have it pictured but mines will be a closed loop system without a breather on the can . I am going to route the PCV hose from the stock oil separator into my catch can and will have the return line feed back into the "s" tube of the supercharger.

Here's a couple of pictures of typical setups I found online (though a turbine is shown you can apply the same concept to JRSC setup)

 

I was going to route the way you are planning

but I read under boost, some oil come out from the valve cover breather.

From my understanding, I need 2 catch cans (1 for pcv and the other for vc breather) if my way do not work.

 

Pulled my motor for a refresh and on a whim decided after 12 years of running this setup that it was time to try something else out.

Will try and post on ebay this week.

 

Are you ready to join me with a Rotrex Supercharger Veris ???

 

The valve cover breather sucks air in I don't see how oil will come out from there if it is an inlet? In any case, you don't need two catch cans. You can get the Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can with 3 ports. That one has two inlet ports and one outlet port. And if you don't end up using the second inlet port just plug it up.

 

me again.
i have a b16b with jrsc lht mod, and wanted to know what plugs i should be using and if possible the gap too.
TIA

 

See link: index

 

No. Just going with parts I already have in my garage. Eventually I'd like to build a custom TVS or electric RWD assist system. Few years off on that. Too many race cars in the work to tackle something that large.

 

here are some pics. I will not part out the kit. It will be sold as a whole. You will not have to find anything for this, It is a complete kit.
NO LOWBALL OFFERS. Serious Inquiries only. PM me with offers.
LHT, JRSC, All brackets and belts, Endyne Stepper pulley, Overflow tank, Spearco Water pump, All lines for cooler and front mount radiator, stock double alt pulley, Super Header, And any leftover parts that I have, extra idler pulley, Extra T-Bolt will be included.


overflow tank

LHT w/ braided lines

installed on car (96 hatch)

Super header. 3" under car with v-bands.

 

That super header would go well with my setup..lol
11:1 cr arias pistons
b18c1 bored and sleeved to 85mm
lht
port and polished p72 head
3angle valve job
supertech valve train
10psi
kamikaze (yup i know) lol
2.5 to 3inch exhaust
hondata s200b (yup I know) lol
rc550(yup I know) lol
ported blower and stube
68mm Blox
​​​​​​​ls tranny
q16 race fuel

Here is my problem I need an s300 to get tuned and there is noone here in Jamaica I trust to touch my jrsc.
It was tuned be whipfactory 12yrs ago when the setup was in the states (260/200) 11.9/119 + 50shot back then) Now the set is upgraded and here in jamaica and I am over protective. Lol . This is where the budget ends for now in my quest for 300....


​​​​​​

 

Guys any reason why my supercharge has gotten a louder whine all of a sudden. Its always been relatively quiet.

 

I'm installing jrsc on my car right now.

Here is problem.

alt to sc belt is too long.

I'm using 4pk610(4pk233) belt with 4.0 sc pulley(no stepper pulley. Just stock jrsc setup).

According to this site

4.0 pulley requires a 40235 belt.

What size belt do I need?



Also, lower coolant nipple on the gsr throttle body is touching heater hose.

What did you guys do to fix this problem?




Thanks in advance.

 

If that's a bit too long for you I would go a step down and get 4PK600 which is pretty close to 4040235 from what FTL recommended.

Looks fine to me. Both of those hoses are routing coolant so I think it should be okay. In my setup I'm using the stock 5/8" coolant hose and it is touching the bottom of my s-tube/throttle body. Can't do much about it since you'll kink the hose really bad if you try to move it out of the way. If you're using the stock non-LHT IM you can use a 5/8" x 24" heater hose. From the thermostat housing route it under the throttle body and then come back around up over the top and into the intake manifold. There should be spot where you can clamp the hose from the top side of the intake manifold. The manual shows you this and it would probably give you enough clearance if you don't want those things touching. I have the LHT manifold and I can't do what the manual says so I'm using the stock U shaped hose.

If you live in warm weather where your car will never see icy winters I wouldn't connect the hose to that nipple on your throttle body. If you delete that hose you wouldn't have to worry that those two are touching. I should not affect anything. The hose that connects to the TB nipple sends coolant to your IAVC to prevent it from icing up in cold weather. What I did was plug up the back of the block and the intake manifold side and deleted the need for that IAVC heater hose. Although people may not think it to be significant, I would do whatever I can to eliminate hot things contributing to your intake temps since the IM is getting f*cked from all sides with hot temps.

Good luck with your build!

 

Here is my experience with charger belts. i found one that works perfect now and i get the some one every time now.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...belts-3249569/

 

I tried 4k233 Napa belt which is too long so I grabbed ACDelco 4k233 belt.

Both printed 4k233(23.3inch) but they are 620mm belts. I'm pretty sure neither of them is going to work.


For my application (B16A2), I need a 610mm belt or smaller due to 4.0 sc pulley.

After I searched Bando website

Bando 4pk610 is 240K4. 610mm = 24.0 inch
Bando 4pk590 is 232K4. 590mm = 23.2 inch

When I put 620mm belt on, it was way too loose. I think 610mm is going to be loose, too.

So I just ordered bando 4pk590 amazon. I will let you guy know how it goes.

 

Do you have a GSR kit ???

 

​​​​​​i have the one that is ment for the 4.2 pulley and just switched to a 4.0 pulley and was able to reuse the belt, not sure if that helps but that's my experience from 2 days ago.

 

Yes. I'm using gsr kit on b16a2.

If 4pk590 not work, I'm going to get 4pk610 which is the belt for 4.2 pulley b16 kit.

I did some calculation.

= *

b16 kit use 4.2 inch pulley.

C= * 4.2 * 25.4mm = 335.145mm

I'm using 4.0 inch pulley

C= * 4.0 * 25.4mm = 319.185mm

Difference = 335.145 - 319.185 = 15.959mm

So 15.959 / 2 = 7.969mm

Belt for 4.2 pulley is 610mm.

610mm - 7.969mm = 602mm

I'm pretty sure, 600mm belt is perfect for my setup.

I hope 590mm belt fit.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

and to answer your question about the bypass hose. On my b16 I used a Gsr heater valve, thermostat housing and water pipe so I can use the Gsr bypass hose and have no Clearance issues.

 

when installing a JRSC on anything other than a Gsr there is tons of Clearance issues even when following the JRSC instructions so I have found just switching all your coolant hose routing to that of a Gsr it all works perfectly, here a EE a few pics of my install for reference. also I just cut the coolant barbs off the the throttle body not a must but it doesn't hurt haha

 

That gsr water pipe looks so much clean.




My engine bay. 99 Civic SI EM1

Use Cable tie to put the heater core hose down.



I had to use lower mounting bolt for heater valve.



Heater core hose and throttle bypass hose are touching. But I think it's okay for now.

I'd like to connect the bypass hose because I live in Canada.


I was about to finish the installation but My kit did not come with fuel pressure regulator adapter (051-146).



This pic is my frp look like.

051-146 is discontinued part.

Now I don't know what to do.

I can not bolt down stock fuel rail on the manifold because of stock frp.


btw i'm still waiting 4pk590 belt.

 

the water pipes is so clean because I bought it new from Honda, and when putting the heater valve to the lower stud my heater hose rubbed on the mount and that's one of the major reasons that I started to look for a better solution because I don't want to end up over heating because it got a hole in it. Also I still have a bypass hose connected since I used the Gsr hardware I am using the 90 degree hose as you see in the pic. And you can get a FPR adapter on eBay

 

I meant the hose connect to nipple on throttle body.

Ebay have some frp adapters but only Chinese sellers ship it to canada.

Shipping from China to Canada takes forever.

Trying to find alternative way to fix the problem.

Any aftermarket frp or oem frp clear the manifold?

 

^ just run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and mount it remotely - on the firewall or near the drivers side motor mount.