zerg336

Oh my god.

Apparently sc pulley is 3.6 inch.

Now it makes sense why 610mm belt is too loose

Anyone have 4.2 or 4.0 pulley for sale?

JRCivic1

Jackson Racing didn't make a 3.6" snout pulley... and if you look closely, the back side of the pulley you have pictured above doesn't have the built in 1.5" hex to aid in properly torquing down the pulley shaft nut. Contact Motorvations Motorsports for a different snout pulley... they have a bunch in stock.

bigjon1378

iTrader: (2)

​​​​​​​id love to take that kamikaze off your hands if you ever go another route it would be a nice upgrade over my current ITR 4-1 header.

bigjon1378

iTrader: (2)

So I decide to change out my 4.2 pulley for a 4.0 pulley this week and I did not want to take the blower off to do this sooooooo I decided to tackle the job on the car and it was no easy taste but I managed to get it done. I had to unbolt both the driver side mount and transmission mount and let the motor hang down and use a pry bar to hold the motor far enough to the passenger side to skip the pulley off and on. Also I had to dent the strut tower a bit to get enough clearance. A few pics throughout the install And the final pic after it was all done.

CX-Adam

If it don't come out, get a bigger hammer.

Nice work, bigjon1378. I love the billet covers and tie-down.

mr. Grind

first start up
no iacv
rich (or does the lack of iacv installed make it rich)
​​​​​pardon the mess
thoughts?

mr. Grind

Btw... ALL YOU FIRST GEN LHT INTERCOOLER GUYS.
news just in I just found out why my engine blew. My core was leaking inside my intake manifold onto my valves and settling for years. I never knew, thought it needed valve adjustments among other things. My car was strictly race so water sat on my valves for extended periods without starting it, led to corrosion. I lost a bit of water from my lht reservoir, but didnt make much of it.
finally on race day a yr + after and at 7k burn out.
kaboom
​​​​​​​Catastrophic damage..valve in no. 2 went along with the head, a piston and part or a cyl.

Riptide101

Can anyone confirm that both pulleys on the jackshaft of a prelude JRSC are the same size? Checking to see if there is anyone one out there that has moved to a upgraded jackshaft pulley and is willing to part with their stock
one? I am experiencing some peeling and would rather get a replacement cheap rather than try to get it recoated.

riptide1012@yahoo.com

GS37

Hello Everyone,

I recently purchased a used JRSC for my D16Z6 1994 Honda Del Sol SI.

Does anyone have the wiring guide / installation instructions for the JR Boost Timing Controller and JR Map Sensor Controller?

Living in California, I'm looking to complete a CARB legal kit for smog; unless anyone can confirm a Hondata S300 can create a tune on the JRSC kit, capable of passing smog?

Thanks!
Christian

porofek

iTrader: (1)

+1

I would also like to know if I can put a tune on my S300 to pass smog since my car is OBD2B (2001)

zerg336

I just finished installing jrsc on the car.

Started the car and found that my car sounds like Subaru but no check engine light.

I'm wondering I can take my car to tuner like this. (About 20min drive 8 miles)

When idle, Narrow band voltage reads at 0.08v which is super lean, right? Also bypass valve is zip-tied (preventing boost)

I don't have wideband yet. Running Hondata S300 jrsc b16 440cc base map.

My tuner will provide the wide band when tuning so I don't plan to have one in a while.

I think base map should run rich.

I will look closely on vacuum leak but I don't think there is any.

mr. Grind

Let see a video...might be able to help better..

bigjon1378

iTrader: (2)

Had some map sensor adapters made, they are $53 shipped within the US. Figured here is the best place to post them, feel free to text me if you'd like to place an order 520-840-2578

~sp33~

Ouch, a bit of extra care on their half would go a long way. I don't think it's limited to the 1g coolers though, mine had problems too.

Can i see a pic of your cooler setup? I'm plumbing mine at the moment and need some ideas.

hondalocal

I am looking for suggestions/options on how to approach replacing the head gasket on my JRSC setup.

Info:
94 Integra GSR
LHT+JRSC

My first intention was to pull the motor/trans out of the car so I don't have to spend the extra time like a flipped turtle, finagling under the car, So as I started disconnecting things in the engine bay, I noticed the brake master cylinder reservoir will be in the way of removing the engine directly up and out. Looks like the snout of the charger will interfere.

So i figured maybe, with the engine hoisted, I would remove the mounts and lower the engine down and towards the transmission side and then towards the front of the car to get the snout of the charger to clear the reservoir and then the engine+trans+jrsc would come out willingly.

I could also just pull the blower off the manifold and then just remove the head without removing the engine.

My ideal goal is to spend less time banging knuckles in between the block and the firewall removing/reinstalling the charger while it's in the car if it makes sence.

Suggestions appreciated!



The brake reservoir stabilizer will be removed depending on the plane of attack




.

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

First off, I love that 12/14mm ratcheting wrench! In regards to your dilemma, sometimes the fastest way just so happens to mean, taking off more parts. If it were me, I'd do this: Compression and leak down test the engine. Make your decision from there. If anything out the ordinary is found remove, refresh, reinstall. If it's all in good health, start banging those knuckles. Either way, pulling the motor and adding some fresh seals wouldn't hurt either.

Best of luck,
Joel

angryhillbilly

i would remove the brake master, then pull the head up with the blower still attached. replace gasket, then put head back on

ComptechGSRSC

The blower really isn't hard to remove....

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

You also have a brake master cylinder brace mounted. I'd remove that and the blower then proceed to pull the head off.

hondalocal

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm going to track down a compressor to do the leak down test and then go from there. I have good compression, but the coolant reservoir keeps filling up and and the car has tried to overheat a few times while idling.

I'm also diagnosing an insane misfire as well. All components in the dizzy tested within spec., but the firing sequence for some of the plugs is very erratic. As far as i've been able to diagnose, it's a bad dizzy or bad ecu. ECU is A P28 with s300. When i jump the ECU I get a steady on light. No flashes.

Car ran fine for a little more than a year... until it didn't.

Mo' Honda, Mo problems

hondalocal

I agree. Love those little ratcheting wrenches

So I did the leak down test today. First air compressor I rented from a local shop was crap, but fortunately I was able to source another. Tests are illustrated below.

So the exhaust valves on the #2 cylinder seem to be the culprit. Airflow coming out of the exhaust.
(And no, the cherries coming out of the valves are not the problem)


I'm glad I took the suggestion to pull the brake master cylinder. This proved to be quite time saving and the head came off with ease.




Just another head-less Honda



I'm leaning towards just replacing the two exhaust valves with oem Honda parts. I looked into going aftermarket, but i'm on a stock exhaust cam and type-r intake cam and gsr valvetrain so it doesn't seem to really be necessary.

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

A valve job is in that plan correct? I hope so. Replacing just 2 valves will be fine. Find a friend with some ITR valve train, if budget permits superrich has the ecno stuff.

Resurface if need be, valve job, valve seals, have the guides checked ( exhaust usually are the worst ) if your machine shop doesn't do that automatically then find a new machine shop. I'm an over planner sometimes. I tend to get caught up in the "lighter valve train" hype; every engine I tear apart and reassemble gets new valve train hehe. Other than that, you're looking good.

hondalocal

Thanks for the suggestions.

I ordered the valves and head gasket from Honda today and will likely take the head down to reputable local shop I've used in the past. I'll have them go through the whole thing and see if they find anything else that needs replacing.

ARP studs coming next week as well.

zerg336

99 Civic Sir (Canadian) EM1

B16A2
All stock internal
AEM Intake
DC 4-2-1 header
Competition stage 1.5 clutch
91 Octane
Hondata S300
jrsc 4.2" pulley 6 psi boost

126 ftlb 181hp mustang dyno

bigjon1378

iTrader: (2)

might want to get a new tuner, or the dyno reads really low. I made 216hp 144tq on 8psi on a bone stock b16 in the hot Arizona summer with no intercooler. I'd think you could make atleast 195hp and 135tq at 6psi