that's awesome

 

I ordered a complete changeover B16A for my Del Sol from hmotorsonline and it should be here in the next couple of weeks! I ordered the 92-95 option which I assume has to do with the obd1 ecu/setup. I bought the timing belt/tensioner/water pump replacement as everyone I talked to recommended. I have a question regarding ordering parts. Is the B16a dimensionally identical to the b16a3 in the Del Sol vtec? I understand my '93 didn't come with the b16 but if I go to a parts website and filter by 94 Del sol vtec trim should the parts bolt right up with my obd1 B16a swap?

 

I replaced the bushings and end links on my front sway-bar. Trying to figure out the pitch of the rear sway mounting bolts so i can get that bar on as-well. I know the oem bolts are M8x18 and guessing they are maybe 1.50 pitch? I tried M8X20 1.25 but they didn't seem to fit. The LCAs themselves are a M10x50 1.25 thread where the sway bolts up.

 

yes, just make sure you order parts for the DOHC vtec model and not the SI (d16z6)

 

Just placed an order for:

Progress CS2 Coils (450/350)
S2 Pro Front & Rear Camber Kits
MPC Extended Top Hats
Spec-D Crystal/Smoked Corner Headlights

Also ordered a new temporary muffler as I'm still 100% stock powertrain wise, and the OEM muffler literally snapped off the exhaust last weekend.

 

Replaced my broken exhaust. I probably could have welded a flange onto the first pipe after the catalytic converter but, I didn't know what condition it was in when I ordered the parts. The Walker OEM style muffler I replaced was only ~1 year old... :/ Hopefully the Bosal one I just put on lasts longer. I ended up not needing to replace the B pipe. Everything came out and went back in pretty easy. Snapped the muffler flange bolts but had some old spares so NBD. Vice grips FTW when compressing the springs and compressing the donut gaskets.



It's nice to be able to hear myself think, again. However, now I can hear every other squeak and clunk my car makes.

 

Tucked mine into the garage, then under its cover for the tropical storm Irma party going on right now in GA.

 

Just played car musical chairs and brought the wife's 93 hatch into the garage.

Time to replace the auto transmission axle seals. I didn't take care when removing the axles doing the engine swap and the splines dented one or both of them enough to let it drip slightly when driven.

Oilinator pad FTW. Best outdoor oil pad I've found, too bad it's not available in Canada.

 

I pulled D16Y7 I built for boost out of my ek. Sad to see after 1700 miles oil on top of pistons

 

suspension feels solid, bouncy but turns are more fun . and well planted

 

What's your setup?

 

Konis, type r springs, suja1 bushings, hx rims

 

Always wondered about those hard rubber bushing kits compared to OEM spec. Seems like the ride quality (based on PIC's site description of their kit) isn't that much harsher over OEM with the hard rubber bushings.

 

My sister's db7 has suja1 bushings as well. I guess they feel harsh because they are new. Cheaper too because whatever bushigns I couldn't find I had to buy the whole arm and that added up. Even buying yhe hard racing arms cost money vs pushing in new bushing. Its tedious and requires patience. Once I had my sisters db7 done 1st it was cake for me on my civic. Seems worth it as the civic is like new now considering all the work I put into it. My sisters db7 should probably last her another 2 - 3 yrs, only thing that needs to be replaced is the transmission.

 

I cleaned my block thats about it.

 

just pulled out some falling a part radiator cap parts

 

Took out the rest of the compustar alarm parts from the 95 Si Coupe shell. Took out the tilt steering column and the u-joint connector for it.

Also noticed the Si coupe had a nice little flip down visor for right above the mirror I pulled. Will have to see if the roof frame has it on the DX and CX shells. Nice little extra feature if it's there. If not some fab work would need to be done to add it.

Just about time to ditch the 95 Si shell.

 

just bought progress Series II coils for my del sol B18C swapped/bar'd hopefully 350/250 is good for DD!

 

I'm on 450/350 and so far it feels pretty smooth. Definitely more road feedback and I feel the bumps and uneven levels of the road more, but by no means is it jarring.

Note that on your spring rates you likely won't be able to lower the car TOO much without bottoming out. Should be fine as long as you're not trying to drive slammed.

 

I don't plan to drop the car at all, as it is a DD and i need the ride clearance for bumps and bad roads; i was skeptical about getting 350/250 and was considering getting 450/350 because of the bottom out issue but at the end i figured 350/250 should be good as i wont be lowering the car

 

Somehow managed to get 2 screws embedded in my rear tire, so just got that patched.

Clutch on AC compressor keeps engaging/disengaging which is causing erratic idle and engine load, as well as making my AC run half assed. So need to fix that. Still so much disarray and work I need to do in the interior too.

Werk werk werk werk werk.... Ugh. Car is looking freaking great on the new coilovers though, I got the ride height sorted out and the toe zero'd out. I thought my front camber kit would come with new A arm bushings but it didn't, so I'll need to replace those before I really zone in on my front camber. On my current wheels/tires though I'll probably need to keep a fair bit of camber, I'll have to evaluate what contact patch I have and find a compromise between that and ride height while still retaining full steering clearance.

If you're not lowering the car much/at all, then the 350/250 will be great and very comfortable for daily driving. I think you'll like it a lot Stock spring rates are only like 250 front, 180 rear or something really soft like that on the chitty stock springs/socks. Even with harsher 350/250 springs your car will feel a lot smoother, especially if you're not lowering.

 

I did some number crunching.

War Hatch costs me $0.16 every mile I drive.

That figure includes:

1. purchase price,
2. title/plates,
3. insurance,
4. gas,
5. oil, and
6. maintenance.

It does not include the cost of tools. Assuming I've spent $3,000 on tools ( I haven't), that figure goes up to $0.19/mile.

I might have ~$1,000 missing from the receipts I've kept and recordings I've missed but those figures should be accurate within 10%.

This is averaged over the course of ~104,000 miles and 310 fill-ups.

 

changed fuel and air filters

 

My dude, about how many hours was this job? You're in Texas, right? I'm assuming no or minimal rust on your car. That correct?

 

Last night spent time prepping the 92 ignition harness with alarm for my wife's 93 Hatch.

She's had intermittent issues with starting the car, especially during winter for a couple of years not, but it just stalled on her the other day so it appears to be getting worse.

Fine during summer when all the metal contacts are expanded, but icy cold days and it's a problem.

Today, Putting it in in hopes the used part is in better shape than her original, Honda will only sell the whole unit with lock cylinder and all for over 500 before tax.