So I have a 96 Civic ek coupe ex model. Factory was a d16y8. Then I swapped in my d16z6. Now I want a b16 swap. I really am just looking for advice and prices to look for I want a b16a2 or really any b-series vtec. But I don't know what all I will need. And can I still use my p28 ecu I have running my z6? And what kind of budget am I looking at for a full turn key swap. Keep in mind also I do want to put it in an run it while I save and buy internals to build and boost

 

Damn bro I just wrote you like 5 paragraphs of useful information got a call swiped back and it was all wiped away. I'll give you my first sentence though, it's most important anyway.

FAQs sticky, the search bar, and Google are your best friend



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You're going to have to use the search button, there is no direct plug and play.

My opinion is swap prices cost more than the car is worth in most cases. So you need to consider the shell itself first

 

autosave failure?

 

What's a dark grey center console delete worth for a EK?
I tried looking on ebay didn't see any also noticed the prices for regular center consoles are high! They went for $60-$120!

 

clean title 92 civic hatchback built motor top to bottom 13:1
compression,lsd,coilovers little rear quarter panel damage..how much should it go for?

 

I have a 1995 Honda Civic Hatchback VX that I need to sell asap. It's 100% stock. Rare VX model. Only mods are I installed an alarm and window tint. Clean title. It has 396,000 miles. Burns and leaks a lot of oil. Red paint is fading on exterior on roof and some on hood. Exterior 7/10. Interior is in very good condition 9/10. Everything else is in really good condition and it runs great. All interior and under the hood 100% stock. I just drove it on a road trip well over 3,000 miles with no problems whatsoever and it's my daily driver. Manual 5 speed. Gets terrific gas mileage. Tires are new. Oil just changed. Current registration. I've done all the maintenance and repaires that I needed to. I've put a decent amount of money into it, just spent over a grand replacing the entire AC system. Probably paid way more than I should have when I bought it. The odometer read half the miles that I found out are actually on it. I bought it for $4,500. I need to sell this car this month. How much do you think it's worth and what should I sell it for?

 

The body is in nice condition but it's tough to sell a whole car now-a-days. It being a VX doesn't really make much difference since the engine is such high mileage and you're burning "a lot of oil". You're basically selling a shell.

You might have good luck on sites like bringatrailer.

 

anyone have a price range on how much it should go for?

 

How much is worth it? BNIB OEM Honda Immobilizer kit

 

Due to the motor burning oil so emissions is going to be a PITA, I think it will be a stretch to get 3K out of it. And then only if it's someone who is looking for the rare VX and wants to rebuild the engine keeping the VX a VX.

 

So how'd I do? Rebuilt engine (have paperwork), clutch at the same time as engine (paperwork on that too), lowered, header, full exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, short ram, DC strut tower bar up front, rear strut bar (not sure of the brand since it's still wrapped in plastic), full fog light kit with OE switch in a box in the trunk and tint. Needs power steering work, ac work(leaks like a bastard so I'm tossing it out and putting a manual rack in), a hood, some paint work(dad used to be a painter so its getting a full respray) and minor things in the interior. Car has 180k on it, Paid $2400

 

I just bought an EM1 for $6,000. I know I over paid honestly but I wanted it. Car has 86k miles, clean title and everything seemed to check out. It was original EBP which was repainted by the owner before the owner that I bought it from. It was resprayed blue as well. Passed smog, and everything is all stock. I did however, after two days of driving, get a CEL for fuel trim malfunction/fuel system too rich. It shouldn't be that big of a deal, but the car was clean and I didn't want to pass it up so I paid $6k. lol

 

I love that color and would have liked to have gotten a clean low mileage one but it was out of my budget. Hopefully I can get my to a be a clean car again but I still have twice the miles as you.

 

Hey everyone im new to honda-tech.com and i just had some questions.. im typing on my phone due to the lack of a computer at the moment so bare with me. Ive got a 97 civic dx coupe 5 speed (salvage title) the car has been swapped with a d15b1 block and a b7 head from what i know. Its lowered on some crappy ebay coilovers and has some toptrue 17" rims, spec d headers ebay 3" muffler yadayada. Basically im saying its a decent looking car with an engine that moves me about the speed of a snail.. now my question is, i have someone offering me 2400$ for it and im wondering if i should sell and try again or if this things got some potential with a little bit of tlc. Im fairly new to the car scene and im rather young (20) i know a little from idoling honda since i was young. Anyways let me know what you guys think. Thanks

 

Getting 2400 USD for a salvage title seems like a pretty decent price to me. The Spec-D header is cheap at 60 bucks, the springs might be a couple of hundred. The only spendy part might be the rims but 17 is a little big for a civic.

The other thing that would up the value is rest free rear quater panels and a clean interior and good paint.

However, it's still a salvage title not a clean title, that hurts the value. I think I would take the money and run, but I'm one to buy a blown engine civic for cheap with a regular title and swap the engine to get the money back and then some.

I'll let others chime in on what they think the value is.

Also, moved your post into the proper thread sticky.

 

Thanks. I noticed this thread as soon as i posted, i should have checked a little better ive been looking a lot at mini me swaps and i cant find quite what im dealing with in my situation. The owner told me that its got the same ecu and intake manifold from the y8 it had but is b1 block b7 head. Im wondering 1. Does this make any sense, since the y8 is vtec and the ecu for it would be wired for it? 2. If i wanted to do a mini and get the y8 head what all would i need? I found a complete y8 head for 200 bucks complete being, valves, springs, cam and cam gear. What about timing? The distributor? Idk if im even making since like i said im learning 100% on my own and this is my first project car but ive got a slight grip on it i like to believe haha.

 

Asking for some input on pricing a 1994 Civic DX 5-speed in Aztec Green for sale. Original owner since new and has 45,500 miles on it. Mechanically in good condition: engine, transmission, brakes, electrical all in good working order. The interior and carpets are in good to excellent condition for the car's age. The car is parked in a secured lot which is uncovered so there is paint fade, some clearcoat damage, rust on top of the passenger side windshield, parking lot scrape on the passenger front fender and faded side mouldings. Actually the hood wasn't properly latched in the photo and shows a gap, there is no front end damage. This is a Northern California car so it was subject to rain but no snow or intense sun.

Generally mechanically great but could use some work on the exterior paint. Tires are in good condition and a new Interstate battery was recently installed.

Thank you.

 

Original owner '94 w/ 45k miles, that is pretty cool! GLWS. You will have to find someone who loves the 5th gen Civics. The general population will dismiss it as "too old", even though it has no miles on a reliable car that will knock down 30+ MPG...

 

Thanks for your comments. One evening on craigslist and it was sold in the morning.

 

I am not surprised! Do you mind me asking what you got for it?

 

97 Civic Dx with 98 B20b swap. Low comp engine with p75 head, was told it had about 51k on it. Chassis has 250k on it but is in good condition, was a Cali car, little to no rust. Pr4 Ecu and ls trans, rear disc brake swap, lowered on some skunk2 static shocks and decent tread on the tires. The wiring is iffy to me, she runs rough when starting cold or after sitting for a while, I want/plan on redoing the engine harness because there are 3-4 plugs that are not connected to anything. I am not a Honda guy tbh, I love my old 4x4 toyota's but this seemed like a decent deal. 180+ comp in all cylinders and picked it up for under 2k. I am willing to do work to it. Only adjusted the valves and fixed the air box so far, is this car worth doing work on? When its warm it seems to pull hard and stops on a dime, trans feels good and it handles well.

 

How much should I sell this for ? 92-00 civic axel back 162-KH01 apexi exhaust ? Came off a 95 coupe

 

What's a D series Jackson supercharger going for?

 

Hey guys, I'm looking to sell my 447 WHP 1995 EG Coupe for $6000...am I asking too much? I'm in Colorado Springs, CO and it's currently on a street tune of 408 WHP...below are the pics and parts list. Motor is a beast and with the right head will do 700HP easy. I bought the bottom end from a race motor that JoTech built and sold to Deepstage Motorsports in Killeen TX, good to 51 psi or so.








Parts
Neptune E85 tune
GT3076 DBB turbo .86 AR
B18C1 block w/stock head - block build by JoTech for Deepstage Motorsports - good to 51psi
AEBS Sleeves
JE 9.5 pistons
GE Rods
ARP pins and studs
ACT 6 puck clutch
DC2 Type R flywheel
DC2 LSD
Island Motorsports 500hp axles
Synapse Synchronic BOV
Tial Sport WG dumped to exhaust - very quiet, all turbo spool
Kteller full 3" exhaust (from turbo) with Greddy EVO muffler
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255 lph high pressure fuel pump
Energy Dynamics PCV kit
Energy Suspension motor mount kit
BBK SSI intake manifold
UR Billet Throttle-body
Integra rear trailing arms with disc brakes
AGX 4 way adjustable shocks with coilovers
Rear sway bar
Extended ARP wheel studs for slicks
Tein hood dampeners

Interior:
Full Integra GSR dash and console, with heater/blower motor
Integra doors molded to civic doors for correct dash fitting
Integra front seats
DC2 passenger air bag tray
DC2 pedal assemblies
DC2 shift ****
Short shifter
EK sun visors
Custom vinyl and suede with red stitching on doors and rear seat
Triple gauge pod with AF/Boost/Oil Temp
AI Boost controller
Smart turbo timer
Electronic fuel pressure gauge
AC Autotechnic glow gauges
Image Dynamics 12" sub with single channel amp and cap, quick disconnect for removal before racing

Extrerior:
Custom paint
EK side mirrors
Black OEM bumpers and lower panels
Spoon front lip with Type R rear lip

Extras:
HKS EVC V Boost controller
Stock B18C1 valve cover
KBC Helmet
New cam seals and other misc parts


Issues:
No AC/Power steering
Moonroof disconnected, closes prematurely and scratches roof
Transmission needs synchros, gears grind
Airbag light on due to the passenger delete
No spare tire
Front rim slightly bent, holds air perfectly
Driver side door alignment slightly off, bumps up when closing
Driver side A pillar cover missing
Trunk needs to be shut firmly to latch

What I would do:
Integra brake booster
Additional inline fuel pump or full race in-tank fuel pump - allows up to 500 WHP on current build, only tune is needed
New turbo manifold - current RLD FAB unit only works with spring pressure, boost controller is cosmetic so the max you could get is around 500 WHP with this manifold with a new tune and possibly changing springs on the WG.
Built head - originally this block was mated to a built racing head making 650 WHP
Built transmission - carbon synchros with forged drivetrain and bell housing or dog gears
Turbo - a bigger turbo will be needed to break beyond 500WHP but will be detrimental to low end driving.